Wonder what the rest of these people's lives are like.
New bar smoking a lot--because of kinked chain, clogged oil hole, or too much 2-stroke?
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Wonder what the rest of these people's lives are like.
Your average person is a moron, so you can guess.l what the rest of their lives are like.
I think Ben summed it up very well in the post above ^, I strongly advise you not to try teaching the average Joe how to sharpen a chainsaw chain unless you have the patience of the Pope.
And then they worry you are going to take too much off. We have all had saws that running and oiling problems were cured by a sharpening. Of course the bar was in need of a grind by then also (or replacement).
There was a huge demand for chainsaw sharpening after an ice storm a few years back. Girlfriend asked why I didn't offer my services.
Easy, I don't want to have some wingnut try and cut concrete, then come back to me demanding to know why my sharpening job only lasted two minutes.
It's not worth the headache and dealing with the public sucks.
Lot more hobbyist/home owner types than the serious chainsaw operator. I was fortunate that an uncle gave me a bunch of tips. Long before the internet.He was an old school logger in his spare time. He was actually the only chainsaw guy I knew back then.
Ah... What the heck.. Let the flames begin..
If all you own is 2 chains ( for the saw, not the rapper, that's spelled with a "Z"). Well, I've got a suggestion..
Get a Stihl "2 in 1" sharpener.
You don't need to learn how to use it, as there is virtually a zero learning curve. Watch a short video on it.
It's main advantage is that you can't screw up, and that it sets the "rakers,", or if you prefer, the "depth gauges" at the same time.
If the saw is still throwing flakes after a tank of gas, fill the gas and bar oil, and go three strokes per tooth on the chain. You'll need more strokes if you hit something while cutting ( nail, etc,), or touched ground with the saw blade rotating.
Buy the right one as they are saw chain specific. You probably need a 3/8 or 3/8 P.. But, check before purchasing.
They sharpen well... Sharper than the best here could do by hand? Absolutely not! But, they get a chain at least as sharp as a new one.
https://www.amazon.ca/Stihl-Chainsa...722018729&sprefix=Stihl+2+in+,aps,127&sr=8-12
That listing is in Canadian Dollars, for a Branded Stihl product.. Knock offs are half the price.. or less.
No more wondering if it's sharp.. if it's not throwing flakes.. a few strokes is all it takes..
If all you own is 2 chains ( for the saw, not the rapper, that's spelled with a "Z"). Well, I've got a suggestion..
Get a Stihl "2 in 1" sharpener.
You don't need to learn how to use it, as there is virtually a zero learning curve. Watch a short video on it.
It's main advantage is that you can't screw up, and that it sets the "rakers,", or if you prefer, the "depth gauges" at the same time.
If the saw is still throwing flakes after a tank of gas, fill the gas and bar oil, and go three strokes per tooth on the chain. You'll need more strokes if you hit something while cutting ( nail, etc,), or touched ground with the saw blade rotating.
Buy the right one as they are saw chain specific. You probably need a 3/8 or 3/8 P.. But, check before purchasing.
They sharpen well... Sharper than the best here could do by hand? Absolutely not! But, they get a chain at least as sharp as a new one.
https://www.amazon.ca/Stihl-Chainsa...722018729&sprefix=Stihl+2+in+,aps,127&sr=8-12
That listing is in Canadian Dollars, for a Branded Stihl product.. Knock offs are half the price.. or less.
No more wondering if it's sharp.. if it's not throwing flakes.. a few strokes is all it takes..
cutter44752
ArboristSite Member
I just took it to another shop but they said the same thing (bad carburetor, etc.) so I paid the $200 and it was working like a dream afterwards. Having said that after a few days I might have chipped it up against a stone and it started acting funny again, so I brought it back to the shop and I have to go pick it up tonight (they had also said the teeth on the *inside* of the chain were worn-down for some reason so the clutch drum (right name?) wasn't catching it correctly leading to a loss of power (just threw in a new chain).
teeth / cutters on top of chain , drive dogs/cogs/ teeth / whatever on inside of loop , or bottom depends on your description . Rocking/ digging in dirt / running against brick/rocks won't damage those but the cutters will be damaged and require sharpening by one means or another. if the chain comes off bar then the drive lugs sometimes get damaged, badly worn drive sprocket or wrong one could also cause premature wear to those also. I know that in the .325 pitch chains there are 2 different sprockets depending on the chain type ( pico or full height), do not know if this extends to the .375 pitch chains.
I like the 2 in 1 sharpener on stihl, holzfforma and oregon full chisel chain but it just doesnt work on oregon semi chisel.
The top of the cutters slope back more than normal on the oregon semi chisel and the guide runs on that part of the cutter. This causes the 2 in 1 to remove way too much off the depth gauges and the file is too low on the cutter giving too much hook.
I sharpened an Oregon speed cut chain with the 2 in 1 and it basically ruined it, I had to file it back most of the way to fix the way too low depth gauges. I used the 2 in 1 on Oregon lpx full chisel chain without issue tho, it did a nice job on it.
Thanks for the heads up / info... Good to know for future reference.. Luckily, ( for me ), all my chains love the 2 in 1, as long as I use the right one for each.
Necessity is the mother of invention and the Stihl 2 in 1 is another fine example of German engineering.
It would nice to have some pics of the sprocket.
Since the bar is not a Husqvarna bar, a picture of the bar in relation to the oil hole would help too.
Since the bar is not a Husqvarna bar, a picture of the bar in relation to the oil hole would help too.
