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I have the 462/261 combination myself. With a 260Pro thrown in as well. I got my 462 when they were still pretty new to the market for 1,000. So, if the one you got for 850.00 is nice and clean, you god a fair deal.

The 261 is a super light saw, that I use the majority of the time. I don't think you'd regret buying one as a second saw.

@chipper1, this is my first time seeing a picture of you. I didn't realize that you were Terry Bradshaw's brother LOL!!!
Oh, forgot to point out my relationship with big bro'. . . Yeah, I am just half his size though! Brother by a different "motha"!
I will keep waiting for a 261, thanks for your input.
 
Sweet, congrats.
That 462 is gonna blow you away with how light it is for a 70cc saw.

Sorry about the trouble with the 362. I wouldn't be too concerned, if it was running fine the last time you ran it, it's probably a fuel issue.
Is your 362 a standard carb or the mtronic version, and what yr(it should say the DOM on the rear handle/tank assembly.
Be sure you do not use starting fluid only pre-mixed fuel, starting fluid will wash the oil off the internal parts.
Do you have spark?
Is trufuel what you normally run, if not, you've added another variable. What do you mean it stopped the engine?
Put a little mix into a small container and dump it into the saw and see what happens.
I thought I replied to this. . . does not seem to show.
Anyway, yesterday I tested compression and found it at 125, should be up around 140 psi from what I hear around here. Pulled 5 times and it was not heading north of 125-- NO how. Blowing blue smoke from around cylinder, it appears. I will make a short video stream and see what you more experienced saw-gurus think. Just runs like crapp, starts and idles(rough) but will NOT accelerate, just bogs and moans like a . . . Oh, I won't go there!

This morning mixed fresh 50:1, spark plug is brown and dry, set at 0.020" gap per Stihl spec.
-- movie 1651 shows 1st two pulls after sitting all night and w/ new fuel. The new fuel had likely not quite got to burning yet, old in line yet. This did not show the blue smoke much. . .
-- movie 1658 shows the blue smoke pretty well, and location; new fuel was likely being used.
-- bogs and will not accelerate; sounds . . .?
I figured out that I had failed to push the INSERT button on the file when it showed up as an icon in this message. . . but, even after doing so, it is only giving the audio. Video format must be wrong. . .

 
I thought I replied to this. . . does not seem to show.
Anyway, yesterday I tested compression and found it at 125, should be up around 140 psi from what I hear around here. Pulled 5 times and it was not heading north of 125-- NO how. Blowing blue smoke from around cylinder, it appears. I will make a short video stream and see what you more experienced saw-gurus think. Just runs like crapp, starts and idles(rough) but will NOT accelerate, just bogs and moans like a . . . Oh, I won't go there!
Blown base gasket most likely. Ethanol takes it's toll on gaskets and some gasket sealers.
 
Welcome to the site, As a McCulloch owner I can't offer any advise about Stihl but you have come to the right place to pick some very smart brains. Help is only a click away. I too am a little older than you and do my own bucking, splitting and milling as do many of the guys here, so no questions will be ignored by the group. Enjoy the site. Play safe out there.
 
I thought I replied to this. . . does not seem to show.
Anyway, yesterday I tested compression and found it at 125, should be up around 140 psi from what I hear around here. Pulled 5 times and it was not heading north of 125-- NO how. Blowing blue smoke from around cylinder, it appears. I will make a short video stream and see what you more experienced saw-gurus think. Just runs like crapp, starts and idles(rough) but will NOT accelerate, just bogs and moans like a . . . Oh, I won't go there!
Before doing a video, just pull the muffler cover(4 fasteners) and inspect the piston. While you're in there get a picture. If the piston is in good condition I'd guess your gauge is off. You have to use the proper style guage where the release valve is right at the tip. Some automotive type gauges do not give an accurate reading.
If there is any damage on the piston when inspecting it, DO NOT run it any more, or you could damage the cylinder.
 
Before doing a video, just pull the muffler cover(4 fasteners) and inspect the piston. While you're in there get a picture. If the piston is in good condition I'd guess your gauge is off. You have to use the proper style guage where the release valve is right at the tip. Some automotive type gauges do not give an accurate reading.
If there is any damage on the piston when inspecting it, DO NOT run it any more, or you could damage the cylinder.
too late chipper! I got video happy.
I will get that picture and post soon. . . I will show image of gauge too; it's release valve is up before the gauge but also has one at the tip. . .

I am hoping it is "just" the head gasket per Lightning. I could probably fix that. I read another post on the forum feed where a McColloch owner may have a feed leak from his chain oil getting into the cylinder causing excessive smoking. . . from what I have seen that does not seem possible with the Stihl, right?

the images just posted:
-- it appears the blue smoke IS coming from the exhaust. . . after looking closer I found the tiny exhaust port, not coming off the main face but from a 1/2" hole. I noticed a small wet spot inside too.
-- The two large Torx screws mounting the muffler, mount it to the frame. Their are four rivets mounting it to the cylinder itself, not meant to be removed!
-- compression gauge shows two schrader valve releases

SO, my impression, the engine has cylinder "problems". . . ??
 

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That gauge should work fine.
Is the arrow backwards, at the start of the arrow in the box, that is the exhaust outlet, tiny isn't it.
That's an earlier style 362, the newer ones have a cover that is removable with 4 fasteners.
There are two covers(pry them out with a little screwdriver) that will need to be removed in order to access the torx fasteners that hold the muffler on. I'm not sure what the 4 rivets are. In the other picture with two arrows you are pointing at a heat shield that mounts between the muffler and the cylinder.
Where's the video.
 
I see the videos now.
Sounds lean, I'd be looking for a bad fuel line or a fuel issue.
But I'd still get the muffler off and inspect the piston just to make sure that there isn't already damage, if there is I wouldn't run it anymore.
 
I have the 462/261 combination myself. With a 260Pro thrown in as well. I got my 462 when they were still pretty new to the market for 1,000. So, if the one you got for 850.00 is nice and clean, you god a fair deal.

The 261 is a super light saw, that I use the majority of the time. I don't think you'd regret buying one as a second saw.

@chipper1, this is my first time seeing a picture of you. I didn't realize that you were Terry Bradshaw's brother LOL!!!
hmm, well, i was wondering who that guy was..... :popcorn2:
 
I see the videos now.
Sounds lean, I'd be looking for a bad fuel line or a fuel issue.
But I'd still get the muffler off and inspect the piston just to make sure that there isn't already damage, if there is I wouldn't run it anymore.
and to think i thot it was because it had a cam upgrade in it... :dumb:
 
Welcome to the site, As a McCulloch owner I can't offer any advise about Stihl but you have come to the right place to pick some very smart brains. Help is only a click away. I too am a little older than you and do my own bucking, splitting and milling as do many of the guys here, so no questions will be ignored by the group. Enjoy the site. Play safe out there.
that's for sure! 👍 and most posts, too btw ! ;)
 
That gauge should work fine.
Is the arrow backwards, at the start of the arrow in the box, that is the exhaust outlet, tiny isn't it.
That's an earlier style 362, the newer ones have a cover that is removable with 4 fasteners.
There are two covers(pry them out with a little screwdriver) that will need to be removed in order to access the torx fasteners that hold the muffler on. I'm not sure what the 4 rivets are. In the other picture with two arrows you are pointing at a heat shield that mounts between the muffler and the cylinder.
Where's the video.
yeah. Where IS the video. It showed I had uploaded both of them. . . I will try again!
OK, I tried again, and all I NOW see is a way to play audio on my Apple Mac. Maybe you guys can see the whole video?? I will read about this forum to see if my video format is wrong. . . that is likely the problem.
 
That gauge should work fine.
Is the arrow backwards, at the start of the arrow in the box, that is the exhaust outlet, tiny isn't it.
That's an earlier style 362, the newer ones have a cover that is removable with 4 fasteners.
There are two covers(pry them out with a little screwdriver) that will need to be removed in order to access the torx fasteners that hold the muffler on. I'm not sure what the 4 rivets are. In the other picture with two arrows you are pointing at a heat shield that mounts between the muffler and the cylinder.
Where's the video.
The two rivets shown are two rivets of FOUR. It appears to me that those four rivets hold the entire muffler assembly onto the cylinder AND the muffler is a swaged, one piece device that is not removable . . . OR maybe I just cannot "see" the little places where you want me to pry with a little screw driver. . . I will look again.

. . . OK, I looked again, cannot see anything but two Torx screws to dismount the lower side of the muffler. Seems it must come out with the engine. . . I will look in service manual for more detail.
Service manual reveals access to the other two screws is by removing the tiny access ports, forcing replacing with new ones.
 

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That gauge should work fine.
Is the arrow backwards, at the start of the arrow in the box, that is the exhaust outlet, tiny isn't it.
That's an earlier style 362, the newer ones have a cover that is removable with 4 fasteners.
There are two covers(pry them out with a little screwdriver) that will need to be removed in order to access the torx fasteners that hold the muffler on. I'm not sure what the 4 rivets are. In the other picture with two arrows you are pointing at a heat shield that mounts between the muffler and the cylinder.
Where's the video.
One more try at videos. . . I saved them in 720P mode . . .
Finally. Figured it out. Here are the videos! Woohoo!



 
Hello folks,
I just joined. . . was looking for info on the big interweb regarding Stihl typical compression, found it HERE -- about 140psi.
Since I am writing I might as well ask for some quick help. I am a hobby farm owner and have cut down hundreds of trees, mostly oak; Fill a large woodshed every spring and the dang red Oaks are dying right and left from Oak Wilt. I see lots more work ahead. I am 71 but pretty able. . . I have a smaller sawmill too.

I have a 362C with no Oil adjust underneath, so, figure that means it is a NON-Pro 362? Anyway, I just went through the oil pump system tear down to get her oiling again; now working OK. This got me thinking about buying a bigger one, like the 441. It appears the 441 is hardly heavier at all but has higher HP and some nice feature upgrades over the 362. . . I can buy one for $700 to $1200 on eBay. . . NEW is like $1300? I have no problems buying used as long as I can feel confident compression is OK and generally appears not to have been beat on. . .

Wondering what others say about this idea? Is 441 THAT much better? Would you do it in a heart beat if it was less than. . . ??$$$ ?? Thanks!
Thats a long winded message. You must have a facebook page, and are used to pouring your world out on to social media....the toilet of the internet.

Lets keep this to the point, and about chainsaws.
1. Stihl has no typical compression rating; its an engine, with rings, cylinder, and skirt wear, along with crank seals that go bad. Thats every 2 -cycle engine.

2. There is no 362C PRO model....and the adjustable oil pump can be installed in 30 mins. The pump part # is easily Googled. The tank vent routinely plugs....blow it out and oil will flow freely. The stock 362 pump is already an overflowing device.......for the long bars always mounted.

3. ANY big-bore Stihl should come with a photo of the cylinder/piston. Most eB sellers don't take the time. The used saw should also show a compression gauge reading, after 10 dry pulls. You'll find dozens of experienced sellers who claim to be saw techs, and don't own a compression tester? Buyer Beware.

4. I'd give up on a specific model....and just monitor this forums sales site. You won't get anything but a solid chainsaw, from a fellow Arborsite member. Got your decal yet????? Good Luck.
 

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