Newbie to running older saws, question on mix ratio

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Two cycle oils and if they are numerous list them.
And ester oils will foul up an engine just like anything else if they aren't combusted properly.
I see that you are down on Stihl Ultra. What about the original Stihl 2 t oil in the orange bottle? I used that for many years before switching to Husky oil. I never used the Ultra though. Any thoughts on the Husky Premium? I can say I have never had a carbon build up problem with either except in weed eaters and that was my own fault for running half throttle a lot.
 
I see that you are down on Stihl Ultra. What about the original Stihl 2 t oil in the orange bottle? I used that for many years before switching to Husky oil. I never used the Ultra though. Any thoughts on the Husky Premium? I can say I have never had a carbon build up problem with either except in weed eaters and that was my own fault for running half throttle a lot.
I think you made a great choice using Husky oil instead.
 
1st generation synthetic oil mainly highly refined mineral oils or PAO base stock had a tendency to cause sealing compound ( seals / gaskets) shrinkage & deformation . This often was compounded due to the lighter viscosity of synthetic oils . Older engine designs or even tolerances often poised leakage problems internally or externally with the newer synthetic oils . Gradually automotive sealibility was upgraded via better materials & oil refiniment to Ester based synthetic oil solved much of these initial concerns . Ester actually was utilized within "High Milage " engine oil blends to condition old worn or brittle seals & gaskets & induce and swelling effect which prevented further leakage problems . Thats why its well known , not one form of oil works well in all applications or usages . A little common sence or knowledge helps , otherwise often also referred to as experience brother ! ;)
Synthetics attacked the older rubber seals drying them out resulting in cracking of the lip, the additives in high mileage formulas softened them making rolled lips, torn lips and seals pushed out common once folks started using it more often because it was on the shelf everywhere for sale. The problems went away once manufactures switched to viton blends in the lip seals, We would suggest a oil change to conventional and 1,000 miles to test for seal recovery and cert often it stopped drippng. Cork allows synthetics to wick through it causing rapid breakdown of the cork resulting in blow out, it simply passes right through rope seals. These newer teflon seals used to combat lower friction and ethanol exposure can be a real pta to install and very expensive.
Antifreezes became a can of worms for 15 years as well.
I think these engines clean of carbon running higher oil content are kept clean by the higher oil content, Its hard to form deposits on a oily surface thats continued to be kept refreshed with a thick new clean oil film even on the piston crown. Likely resulting in the carbon being exhausted instead of building up. Look at the recommended ratio outside of the us, its not 50:1
 
Synthetics attacked the older rubber seals drying them out resulting in cracking of the lip, the additives in high mileage formulas softened them making rolled lips, torn lips and seals pushed out common once folks started using it more often because it was on the shelf everywhere for sale. The problems went away once manufactures switched to viton blends in the lip seals, We would suggest a oil change to conventional and 1,000 miles to test for seal recovery and cert often it stopped drippng. Cork allows synthetics to wick through it causing rapid breakdown of the cork resulting in blow out, it simply passes right through rope seals. These newer teflon seals used to combat lower friction and ethanol exposure can be a real pta to install and very expensive.
Antifreezes became a can of worms for 15 years as well.
I think these engines clean of carbon running higher oil content are kept clean by the higher oil content, Its hard to form deposits on a oily surface thats continued to be kept refreshed with a thick new clean oil film even on the piston crown. Likely resulting in the carbon being exhausted instead of building up. Look at the recommended ratio outside of the us, its not 50:1
The mineral oil I run at 25:1 burns under combustion and leaves a soft layer of carbon on piston crowns and stuff all carbon in combustion chambers these are very high hr saws.
I personally wouldn't run an overkill oil in a saw that doesn't burn in the combustion process that washers everything clean like spotless wet piston crowns, then blows out the exhaust as unburnt oil what's the benefit of an oil doing that in a saw none that I can think of?

1.JPG3 (3).JPG
 
The OPEmfgs went to 50:1 to reduce visible smoke emmissions given the average joe can't tune a carb to save his life.
Modern saws run great at 32:1. My 400C has ran 32:1 since day one and is very clean internally and doesn't smoke at all except for a few seconds when cold.
Previously I ran a Husky 562 at 32:1 for years with good results. Even bumped it up to 24:1 when I needed to run a long bar in large oak. Again with perfect results.

What I have observed with my saws is....

That newer husq 450 with X-Torq doesnt smoke @ALL......older tech.....regular piston ported 2strokes like strimmer or Partner 351 (Poulan 2x50....husq 36/136 clone) smokes a bit....especially when cold!

All are on diet of 32:1...

X-Torq....2-mix.....Oxypower technology have really improwed that "smoke" issue...
 
I think these engines clean of carbon running higher oil content are kept clean by the higher oil content, Its hard to form deposits on a oily surface thats continued to be kept refreshed with a thick new clean oil film even on the piston crown. Likely resulting in the carbon being exhausted instead of building up. Look at the recommended ratio outside of the us, its not 50:1
Higher oil content does indeed help keep an engine cleaner if the motor is tuned properly and you are using the right oil for the application. As oil content goes up so do the amount of detergents.
Also keep in mind that much of the carbon is caused by the gasoline. Especially summer blend gasoline. After all even four cycle engines have carbon on their pistons.
 
The mineral oil I run at 25:1 burns under combustion and leaves a soft layer of carbon on piston crowns and stuff all carbon in combustion chambers these are very high hr saws.
I personally wouldn't run an overkill oil in a saw that doesn't burn in the combustion process that washers everything clean like spotless wet piston crowns, then blows out the exhaust as unburnt oil what's the benefit of an oil doing that in a saw none that I can think of?

View attachment 1021229View attachment 1021230
Looks great for high hours. You obviously know how to tune a saw as well.
 
Synthetics attacked the older rubber seals drying them out resulting in cracking of the lip, the additives in high mileage formulas softened them making rolled lips, torn lips and seals pushed out common once folks started using it more often because it was on the shelf everywhere for sale. The problems went away once manufactures switched to viton blends in the lip seals, We would suggest a oil change to conventional and 1,000 miles to test for seal recovery and cert often it stopped drippng. Cork allows synthetics to wick through it causing rapid breakdown of the cork resulting in blow out, it simply passes right through rope seals. These newer teflon seals used to combat lower friction and ethanol exposure can be a real pta to install and very expensive.
Antifreezes became a can of worms for 15 years as well.
I think these engines clean of carbon running higher oil content are kept clean by the higher oil content, Its hard to form deposits on a oily surface thats continued to be kept refreshed with a thick new clean oil film even on the piston crown. Likely resulting in the carbon being exhausted instead of building up. Look at the recommended ratio outside of the us, its not 50:1
Yes , modern sealibility as I previously mentioned within Neoprene , Viton , Nitrile & Epdm rather than previous pressed papper or cork certainly improved leakage concern within seals & gasketing failures .
 
AGAIN you don't know what your talking about. Group 3 oils, which you refer to as highly refined mineral oils do not and have not caused seal issues.
Wrong again Ben , within the automobile sector , 1st generation Full & blended synthetic oils did cause seal & gasket breakdown and failure in combination with inferior sealing materials of the time . I have numerous professionals in the trade that have a life time of experience within these cause & effect failures , so lets just say I think I will rely on their advice over your questionable input brother lol.
 
I never said you did..I mentioned it because you love to drag out chit from 40 years ago..
Your a real piece of work , still wet behind the ears . P.S. unfortunately the 1st generation syn oils & sealibility issue with refined mineral oils or PAO based synthetic oil was 40 + actually 50 yrs ago silly !
 
Two cycle oils and if they are numerous list them.
And ester oils will foul up an engine just like anything else if they aren't combusted properly.
Any oil not used within a reasonably tuned saw within a proper mix ratio will leave deposits , I think we all realize that , quit splitting hairs .
 

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