Next project. 371xp

[Jacob J.]

The ball retainers in the main bearings. If you're rebuilding a used saw and not installing new main bearings, you need to check the retainers and make sure they're tight and solid. I just use a dental pick to make sure they won't slop around.

 

[parrisw]

The ball retainers in the main bearings. If you're rebuilding a used saw and not installing new main bearings, you need to check the retainers and make sure they're tight and solid. I just use a dental pick to make sure they won't slop around.

Hmm no, I was never in there, so I guess I didn't check it. I'm not even 100% sure on where they are? I guess I'll do it now, after I find out if it needs bearings or not.

 

[blsnelling]

I just completely went through a 064 for a freshening up. I did everything except split the case halves and remove the crank. The bearings felt good and tight and smooth. When I got it back together it was rattling like crazy on decelleration. It turned out that the spacer that holds the balls of the bearing at even intervals was totally gone. They would occasionally all get on one side and the flywheel would hit the coil. Luckily I found it very quickly and didn't hurt a thing. I had gaskets and seals here form my 064 as well as a spare bearing and had it back together later that evening. Runs like a charm now.

 

[parrisw]

I just completely went through a 064 for a freshening up. I did everything except split the case halves and remove the crank. The bearings felt good and tight and smooth. When I got it back together it was rattling like crazy on decelleration. It turned out that the spacer that holds the balls of the bearing at even intervals was totally gone. They would occasionally all get on one side and the flywheel would hit the coil. Luckily I found it very quickly and didn't hurt a thing. I had gaskets and seals here form my 064 as well as a spare bearing and had it back together later that evening. Runs like a charm now.

Nice work, good to hear. We'll see how it goes with mine.

 

[Crofter]

I am more familiar with them being called bearing cages. Some are riveted or spot welded steel and some are one piece stamped members and some are a type of plastic. As mentioned they are subject to wear and fatigue and when they break they let the balls or rollers pile up and separate, plus broken pieces of the cage can damage balls or races or wind up scoring the cylinder. Usually it is easier to examine the cages, separator elements, retainers or whatever you want to call them from the outside with seals removed.

 

[blsnelling]

The bearing in my example was the flywheel side. Infortunately, the cage is not visible with the seal out. That's how it got missed. And you're right. I believe cage is what I've heard them refered to as.

 

[parrisw]

I am more familiar with them being called bearing cages. Some are riveted or spot welded steel and some are one piece stamped members and some are a type of plastic. As mentioned they are subject to wear and fatigue and when they break they let the balls or rollers pile up and separate, plus broken pieces of the cage can damage balls or races or wind up scoring the cylinder. Usually it is easier to examine the cages, separator elements, retainers or whatever you want to call them from the outside with seals removed.

Ahh ok, now I see, I guess that's what Jacob was talking about?? Ya, I know them as cages as well.

Thanks

 

[SkippyKtm]

Sorry to hear about the problem, everyone makes mistakes, myself included.
The best way when you reassemble an engine is to use whatever oil that is used normally in the engine when you lube the bearings, IMO. With a two stoke, I use the oil I normally use for the premix (undiluted of course). Some people have varying opinions on what assembly lube to use, and they probably work just as well. I have built a lot of engines, both big and little, both professionally and as a hobby. I do it as a hobby now, and had no failures yet. (I was a mechanic for years before I changed careers).

 

[parrisw]

Sorry to hear about the problem, everyone makes mistakes, myself included.
The best way when you reassemble an engine is to use whatever oil that is used normally in the engine when you lube the bearings, IMO. With a two stoke, I use the oil I normally use for the premix (undiluted of course). Some people have varying opinions on what assembly lube to use, and they probably work just as well. I have built a lot of engines, both big and little, both professionally and as a hobby. I do it as a hobby now, and had no failures yet. (I was a mechanic for years before I changed careers).

Thanks, ya I agree, I always use 2stroke oil on the piston, I suppose I should of done the bearings as well. Live and learn I say!!

 

[parrisw]

Ok, I just pulled it apart, it's the big end rod bearing thats toast. Its really bad, like a good 1/8" of play in it. Dam, guess I'm on the hunt for a crank assembly.

 

[parrisw]

anybody ever used one of these? aftermarket crank assy.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/HUSQVARNA-365-371-372-CHAINSAW-CRANKSHAFT-2165-2171_W0QQitemZ330235857846QQihZ014QQcategoryZ85915QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262

 

[PB]

anybody ever used one of these? aftermarket crank assy.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/HUSQVARNA-365-371-372-CHAINSAW-CRANKSHAFT-2165-2171_W0QQitemZ330235857846QQihZ014QQcategoryZ85915QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262

Did you see this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/371-Husqvarna-C...ryZ85915QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[SkippyKtm]

I've used aftermarket crank pin/connecting rod kits with no issues (I have a KTM300 with one in it-been in use for 10 yrs now, the guy I bought it from ran it on straight gas). I would be a little wary of buying a used crank from anyone without checking it for myself first- I bought a used one where the seller said it was good, and it was toast.
You can look at the bright side, and at least the bearing didn't totally implode and take out your piston and cylinder!

 

[parrisw]

Did you see this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/371-Husqvarna-C...ryZ85915QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hmm, case looks pretty rough though. Mine is allot nicer looking.

 

[parrisw]

I ordered the new crank, also the seller is just a hour away from me actually, so I'll likely have it this week. Also this will give me a chance to go through the whole dang saw, and make sure its all good.

 

[PB]

Hmm, case looks pretty rough though. Mine is allot nicer looking.

Yeah but it would save you from splitting the case.


Check your email.

 

[blsnelling]

I have an aftermarket crank from Baileys in my 038 Mag. The only issue I had was a "boss" on the weight contacted the paint as it spun around. Of course you wouldn't know this until it was assembled. Fortunately it was a tiny contact patch not even as deep at the paint. I relieved the crank and went on my way. Runs great.

 

[parrisw]

Yeah but it would save you from splitting the case.


Check your email.

Yes, true, but it looks like its seen allot of use.

Thanks for the email.

 

[Jacob J.]

Yeah but it would save you from splitting the case.


Check your email.

Not necessarily, it's still used case with used bearings. Curt is a great guy and a top notch seller but he's not a saw mechanic and he isn't going to know the difference between a bearing that's 100% and one that feels and looks good but is not a runner. This is why I usually put new bearings in any saw that's been torn down that far.

 

[Jacob J.]

Ahh ok, now I see, I guess that's what Jacob was talking about?? Ya, I know them as cages as well.

Thanks

They're called 'retainers' in the service manuals. But irregardless the nomenclature, they still need to be checked when you've got the case open for a new top end or a top end rebuild.