That first piston listed is for a 3700 or PP375.
The second one if for a 2000
I cant find what the 3rd one fits yet.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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That first piston listed is for a 3700 or PP375.
The second one if for a 2000
I cant find what the 3rd one fits yet.
I'd like to have one of the 530069545 pistons, Tim.
I will tell him to hold it for me. Not sure when I will get out there next but as long as you're not in a rush I will be happy to get it to you.
No hurry.
Me neither. It was a small piston very similar to the 2000 piston
530023046 245A - 306A air filter
I forgot to add,
he also has two,
530023046 245A - 306A air filters $18 ea BOTH SOLD
I forgot to add,
he also has two,
530023046 245A - 306A air filters $18 ea BOTH SOLD
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Flintknapper
ArboristSite Operative
Micro XXV questions
Were ALL 'micro's' electronic ignition?
Apparently....'some' Micro 25's were produced at 38cc (vs. the more common 33 cc version) how can you tell the difference.
I'm thinking I'd like to add one to my small collection, or to keep in my truck to clear small trees/limbs from the ranch roads.
Yes, I know my S25 will do the same thing...but I want to keep it in good shape.
Thanks,
Flint.
Were ALL 'micro's' electronic ignition?
Apparently....'some' Micro 25's were produced at 38cc (vs. the more common 33 cc version) how can you tell the difference.
I'm thinking I'd like to add one to my small collection, or to keep in my truck to clear small trees/limbs from the ranch roads.
Yes, I know my S25 will do the same thing...but I want to keep it in good shape.
Thanks,
Flint.
The IPL I have for the Micro XXV shows that it had both electronic and points ignitions.
Acres lists a "Deluxe" Micro XXV that is 38 cc's. I don't question why you want to keep your S25 pristine but it looks as though you have several options including buying another S25 work saw or the later version of the Micro which is the 2000/2300 (2000 is 33 cc's and 2300 is 38cc's) series. In fact Palmer just gave a very nice Craftsman 2000 version away on eBay in the past couple of days.
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Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Tim I'd like to get one of those 200/300 air filters. No hurry.
zogger
Tree Freak
3400 piston
Just at the point of trying to press out (well, however I cob job this) the wristpin on a 3400 and wondering, do both the pieces press out as a unit, or just the inner one? The outer thing is a bearing assembly that stays in the piston? I can see needle bearings there. Saw the one thread on making a tool, but hoping I don't have to go to the store for this one and get it done with sockets and wooden blocks, etc. I just really don't know which one to push on!
TIA
Just at the point of trying to press out (well, however I cob job this) the wristpin on a 3400 and wondering, do both the pieces press out as a unit, or just the inner one? The outer thing is a bearing assembly that stays in the piston? I can see needle bearings there. Saw the one thread on making a tool, but hoping I don't have to go to the store for this one and get it done with sockets and wooden blocks, etc. I just really don't know which one to push on!
TIA
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you aren't familiar with the removal process, you will want to take the time to read up on it.
Otherwise you WILL ruin a piston (at least).
Mike
zogger
Tree Freak
I did, that's why I stopped where I am. It wasn't clear to me whether both pieces push out or just the inner one. I think just the inner one, just want to be sure is all. Pistons I have done and looked at before, both here and in pics, used circlips.
Can't say for sure on the 31 but the S33 appears to be 4832 for 7 tooth .404. Those saws are so similar that I would suspect they use the same one.
If you don't get a reply for the Oregon number you might try this member (Bill G) who posted,
I have Oregon books from 1957, 1962,64,64,65,66,67,68, 1974,1976, 1982, 1984, and then they skip to the master catalog which is probably around 2003 or so. I probably have more years but I will have to look.
Bill
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Only the inner wrist pin comes out. There is a special tool to remove the pin but I've had success supporting the connecting rod so it doesn't bend when pushing out the pin. I don't heat the piston but use a drift to punch out the wrist pin. Again be sure to support the connecting rod so it doesn't bend. One thing I've done is to place the saw on its side and support the underneath of piston with a block of wood. This assures you don't apply pressure to the connecting rod. Crude but it works for me.
Bob
I certainly did. That saw was clean enough to eat out of. Didn't get much out of the deal but didn't have much in it either. Every now and then I run across one for 5 or 10 dollars because the public still doesn't know they're worth something.
My building is just too full right now and I need a little space. I'll give away 4 or 5 more next month just in time for Christmas!
