Nik's Poulan Thread

[stubnail67]

i bid on that 3400

I certainly did. That saw was clean enough to eat out of. Didn't get much out of the deal but didn't have much in it either. Every now and then I run across one for 5 or 10 dollars because the public still doesn't know they're worth something.
My building is just too full right now and I need a little space. I'll give away 4 or 5 more next month just in time for Christmas!

I just forgot to come back and catch it before the auction ended.....i need to learn to just place the full amount i will pay and let it ride.... i have to admit i like the bidding thing... most of the time late after way to many beers.....

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I just forgot to come back and catch it before the auction ended.....i need to learn to just place the full amount i will pay and let it ride.... i have to admit i like the bidding thing... most of the time late after way to many beers.....

I'm not real versed in ebay techniques but I understand the people have some kind of "sniping" software that automatically sticks in a bid a few seconds before the auction is over. So even if you came back they might have overbid you at the last second or two.
That was a good saw, I wish you had won it. I have another one, not as pretty but a good runner. I'd been saving it for myself but I guess I could let it go, it's been gone through but I'd check it out again before I sold it.

 

[rms61moparman]

I did, that's why I stopped where I am. It wasn't clear to me whether both pieces push out or just the inner one. I think just the inner one, just want to be sure is all. Pistons I have done and looked at before, both here and in pics, used circlips.

Only the inner wrist pin comes out. There is a special tool to remove the pin but I've had success supporting the connecting rod so it doesn't bend when pushing out the pin. I don't heat the piston but use a drift to punch out the wrist pin. Again be sure to support the connecting rod so it doesn't bend. One thing I've done is to place the saw on its side and support the underneath of piston with a block of wood. This assures you don't apply pressure to the connecting rod. Crude but it works for me.

Bob

As much as I respect you Bob, I have to disagree this time.
Heat is cheap. (A propane torch will do it)
There is just too much that can be ruined by beating and banging, even by the most careful of Poulan lovers.


Mike

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I just forgot to come back and catch it before the auction ended.....i need to learn to just place the full amount i will pay and let it ride.... i have to admit i like the bidding thing... most of the time late after way to many beers.....

I think I made a mistake. I was selling a Micro and a 3400, I thought you bid on the Micro. I have a couple more 3400s and I'll probably sell one of them or give it away as the case may be...

 

[stubnail67]

I think I made a mistake. I was selling a Micro and a 3400, I thought you bid on the Micro. I have a couple more 3400s and I'll probably sell one of them or give it away as the case may be...

no it was 3400 i was after... i saw the grey 2.0 i have a few or those like 3 LOl... PS i pmed you back...

 

[zogger]

As much as I respect you Bob, I have to disagree this time.
Heat is cheap. (A propane torch will do it)
There is just too much that can be ruined by beating and banging, even by the most careful of Poulan lovers.


Mike

Heat the connecting rod? Heat the piston? Then push or tap the middle pin out after it is fully supported?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

no it was 3400 i was after... i saw the grey 2.0 i have a few or those like 3 LOl... PS i pmed you back...

Good deal! I really preferred keeping the red one that I painted because it's a conglomeration of several saws of different colors and although it's a good working saw it's still a frankensaw.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Heat the connecting rod? Heat the piston? Then push or tap the middle pin out after it is fully supported?

I dont heat em to take em out, gotta be real carefull doing that. You need a tool to properly push that pin out. I would not advise beating or such on it at all, too much chance of screwing up the piston or rod.

I do heat the rod up when putting the pin back in though. If you do it right you can push the pin in by hand.

 

[Nardoo]

Were ALL 'micro's' electronic ignition?
Apparently....'some' Micro 25's were produced at 38cc (vs. the more common 33 cc version) how can you tell the difference.
I'm thinking I'd like to add one to my small collection, or to keep in my truck to clear small trees/limbs from the ranch roads.
Yes, I know my S25 will do the same thing...but I want to keep it in good shape.
Thanks,
Flint.

Flint, there is not a huge difference in the two micros. The 38cc one on the right is from a PP 235 which has a plated bore and standard piston with thin rings. It has great compression and is a real goer. The 33cc version on the left has the plated piston and thick rings. They go well too and are by far the most common around here. The metric measurements are approximate only.

Al.

 

[redunshee]

As much as I respect you Bob, I have to disagree this time.
Heat is cheap. (A propane torch will do it)
There is just too much that can be ruined by beating and banging, even by the most careful of Poulan lovers.


Mike

No problem Mike, this isn't the first time I've been wrong. Just ask my wife. .I've been doing it this way because I swear someone here said not to heat the piston due to the bearings in the wrist pin hole. Additionally the service manual says nothing about heating the piston although it does show the proper tool for pin extraction. Listen, if I can use heat I'd much prefer to. Just want to be sure its okay. Thanks for the correction.

Bob

 

[zogger]

No problem Mike, this isn't the first time I've been wrong. Just ask my wife. .I've been doing it this way because I swear someone here said not to heat the piston due to the bearings in the wrist pin hole. Additionally the service manual says nothing about heating the piston although it does show the proper tool for pin extraction. Listen, if I can use heat I'd much prefer to. Just want to be sure its okay. Thanks for the correction.

Bob

What is the # for the tool in the service manual?

 

[67 Mustang]

I went out there today to get some spikes and he pulled out some parts to see if anyone is interested.

Phelon ignition 530039078 for XXV micro $25
Phelon ignition 530039051 Is NLA and fits 20 and 20A chainsaws. box marked 09213-00A $25

Pistons $25 ea

530010355 (1) SOLD
530069545 was 530010587 (1) 1 SOLD, one left
530023389 (2)

Starter pulley for 245A & 306
530010063

Connecting rod kit for Poulan 108C & 236
530010474

He's also got a bunch of starter dogs, plates, springs etc.

Let me know if I can help.

Tim

Appears from what I can find that the 530023389 piston is for the 25D/25DA (2.1 cu. in.) saws.

 

[scottr]

What is the # for the tool in the service manual?

Mark,the Chain Saw Service Manual 10TH Edition says to use Poulan piston pin removal tool 31069 .

 

[Eccentric]

There's no need to heat the piston at all with these engines. The press-fit is between the pin and the con rod end (not the pin and piston). When I mess with this type of conrod/pin/piston/bearing setup (used in these Poulans, plus many old Macs), I heat the rod small end before pressing the pin in.

 

[3000 FPS]

Mark,the Chain Saw Service Manual 10TH Edition says to use Poulan piston pin removal tool 31069 .

I could have swore that I once saw a picture of a home made press for the this very job by ModifiedMark. But I could be wrong.

 

[zogger]

Mark,the Chain Saw Service Manual 10TH Edition says to use Poulan piston pin removal tool 31069 .

thanks!

 

[redunshee]

There's no need to heat the piston at all with these engines. The press-fit is between the pin and the con rod end (not the pin and piston). When I mess with this type of conrod/pin/piston/bearing setup (used in these Poulans, plus many old Macs), I heat the rod small end before pressing the pin in.

Makes sense. How do remove the piston? Guess I've been doing it wrong or pressing the envelope. Never had a problem though.
Bob

 

[zogger]

I could have swore that I once saw a picture of a home made press for the this very job by ModifiedMark. But I could be wrong.

Way back in the threads there is one, uses a 10/24 allthread and some big long nuts and washers and a socket and a sleeve. I was just thinking if the factory tool was still out there maybe..but searching now I can't find one.

I screwed up. Last year on ebay was a full brand new NOS OEM tool set for these series saws for around $100 or so...of course I have neither an ebay account nor did I have the $100 bucks at the time.

 

[67 Mustang]

Makes sense. How do remove the piston? Guess I've been doing it wrong or pressing the envelope. Never had a problem though.
Bob

Congrats on the 3700 sale, Bob! Now you know all you have to do is put a bow on one and double or triple the price it will bring. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[67 Mustang]

I could have swore that I once saw a picture of a home made press for the this very job by ModifiedMark. But I could be wrong.

Mark's famous pin pusher from ModifiedMark Manufacturing.

Way back in the threads there is one, uses a 10/24 allthread and some big long nuts and washers and a socket and a sleeve.

I bought the stuff and put one of those together but I've never tried to use it. Seems kind of flimsy to push that pin out. Might work better if you heated the top of the rod as Aaron suggested.

There's been a number of thoughts on fabricating something to push out pins. There was one that used a piece of exhaust pipe with two counter-opposing holes drilled in it. You welded a nut to one side to accept a threaded push pin. The opposing hole was for the pin to be extracted through. You need very hard material for the nut and push pin otherwise the threads will strip.