Nik's Poulan Thread

[OhioGregg]

So I got a 3.7 craftsman/poulan (red) with a 20" Oregon bar and I was wondering if it is gonna work well with a 24" bar.

Also where to buy and which brand bar is good for the $?

Thanks , you poulan guys rule!

For the most part, these saws came with a 18" bar & chain. That being said, a 20" will work just fine. The biggest I would use, would be a 24". And seeing you are from the land of big bars & skip chain, thats an option too.

Just to keep things simple, I would stick with a 20" or possibly a 24" with the Oregon D176 mount. Bailey's carries new Oregon bars in this mount. Otherwise, just cruise Ebay, for bars to fit this style saw. I have never tried skip chain personally. But that might just be the ticket for California trees.:biggrin:

Large Husky mount bars will work, But need to come up with spacers, and the drive link count is usually off too. The older Sandvik/Windsor style bars work great too, but need the hard to find S-clip to use them. But at least the drive link counts are the same with those.


Gregg,

 

[fossil]

For the most part, these saws came with a 18" bar & chain. That being said, a 20" will work just fine. The biggest I would use, would be a 24". And seeing you are from the land of big bars & skip chain, thats an option too.

Just to keep things simple, I would stick with a 20" or possibly a 24" with the Oregon D176 mount. Bailey's carries new Oregon bars in this mount. Otherwise, just cruise Ebay, for bars to fit this style saw. I have never tried skip chain personally. But that might just be the ticket for California trees.:biggrin:

Large Husky mount bars will work, But need to come up with spacers, and the drive link count is usually off too. The older Sandvik/Windsor style bars work great too, but need the hard to find S-clip to use them. But at least the drive link counts are the same with those.


Gregg,

If it's any help I made one up out of an old windshield wiper blade spring.

The clip on my 5200 measures .027 thick by .138 wide.

I found some old windshield wiper metal rods in the garage (junk storage area) and they are .028 thick and .094 wide.

They are made of spring steel and should hold up well.

I just clamped a 1/4" hex head bolt in the bench vice and clamped the end of the rod to the bolt with vice grips leaving the top of the jaws flush with the top of the rod and wrapped it around. I took the wrapped end rod to the saw and put the wrapped end over the rear bar stud and wrapped the rod around the end of the front bar stud, cut the excess off and closed the end down a bit with pliers.

Seems to work really well and took 5 minutes to make.

 

[barneyrb]

Well, I've already blocked up a red oak (this morning) for a neighbor that was 42" dbh with the old PP655. That thing runs pretty decent with a 36" bar (.375 x .063). I took the rakers down a little and it really pulls.

One word of caution, I made the mistake of buying a new bar (Poulan branded) off of the bay and this guy is putting Chinese tips on poulan bars and I had 2 tips lock solid (had bought 2 bars for 2 655's and even after I had greased them before use). I do have some Sandvick tips to replace them with but it still sucks to have to replace new tips.

Long live the 655, great saws.......

 

[67 Mustang]

What kind of compression should I be looking for on a 2300 CVA?

Tim, I checked a Craftsman version of the 2300 and it was 120 psi and a Poulan 2300 was 130 psi.

See.. I'm not pulling your leg Steve.. Mine has a Zama C3A carb on it. I switched and put the Walbro on, for kicks. Worked just the same, I couldn't tell a difference. So put the Zama back on.

Gregg,

Gregg, I think you just staged that so yours was unique! :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Finally remembered to check mine and it is a HDB-8B. Once again points to how consistent manufacturers, including Poulan, can be.

 

[OhioGregg]

Tim, I checked a Craftsman version of the 2300 and it was 120 psi and a Poulan 2300 was 130 psi.



Gregg, I think you just staged that so yours was unique! :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Finally remembered to check mine and it is a HDB-8B. Once again points to how consistent manufacturers, including Poulan, can be.

Steve, It is my belief, maybe I'm wrong. But I'll bet they (Poulan) used up the last remaining parts from that series at the end, knowing they were going to be discontinued. Ran out of Walbro carbs and and got a better deal from China made? Zama's to finish the run. Makes sense to me, but who knows for sure? It came on the saw I have. I did get a diaphragm kit from Poulan for it.

Gregg,

 

[hemiyota]

Well, I've already blocked up a red oak (this morning) for a neighbor that was 42" dbh with the old PP655. That thing runs pretty decent with a 36" bar (.375 x .063). I took the rakers down a little and it really pulls.

One word of caution, I made the mistake of buying a new bar (Poulan branded) off of the bay and this guy is putting Chinese tips on poulan bars and I had 2 tips lock solid (had bought 2 bars for 2 655's and even after I had greased them before use). I do have some Sandvick tips to replace them with but it still sucks to have to replace new tips.

Long live the 655, great saws.......

Might want to post the seller ID, so others can avoid buying from him......

 

[67 Mustang]

Steve, It is my belief, maybe I'm wrong. But I'll bet they (Poulan) used up the last remaining parts from that series at the end, knowing they were going to be discontinued. Ran out of Walbro carbs and and got a better deal from China made? Zama's to finish the run. Makes sense to me, but who knows for sure? It came on the saw I have. I did get a diaphragm kit from Poulan for it.


Gregg,

Worked on a late model 3800 today with a HDB-18. Have not seen that one before.

 

[homelitejim]

picked this up today, no data plate or good sticker looks like I will have to measure the bore.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well, I've already blocked up a red oak (this morning) for a neighbor that was 42" dbh with the old PP655. That thing runs pretty decent with a 36" bar (.375 x .063). I took the rakers down a little and it really pulls.

One word of caution, I made the mistake of buying a new bar (Poulan branded) off of the bay and this guy is putting Chinese tips on poulan bars and I had 2 tips lock solid (had bought 2 bars for 2 655's and even after I had greased them before use). I do have some Sandvick tips to replace them with but it still sucks to have to replace new tips.

Long live the 655, great saws.......

I'll bet its that same seller I got one from back sometime ago. It wasnt the one in the picture, came with a Chi Com tip and was a D007 mount instead of the D096 mount as was listed. (which used a different DL count)

I ended up haveing to go through ebay to get it sent back, item not as described. Guy was a jerk and got a neg out of it.

His name was something with "dogs" in it but shortly after he changed his seller name and for the life of me I cant think of it off hand.

 

[Modifiedmark]

picked this up today, no data plate or good sticker looks like I will have to measure the bore.

Not a bad find!

 

[fossil]

Tim, I checked a Craftsman version of the 2300 and it was 120 psi and a Poulan 2300 was 130 psi.



Gregg, I think you just staged that so yours was unique! :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Finally remembered to check mine and it is a HDB-8B. Once again points to how consistent manufacturers, including Poulan, can be.

Thanks for taking the time to check the compression for me. Unfortuately, the cylinder was all scored up on the saw so I passed on it.

I did get a Pioneer P51 that runs strong but needs a cracked handle and broken clutch cover repaired or replaced.

I am going to post some pics up in the Pioneer thread. I really hesitated buying it but the price was pretty good at $100 and I think the cracks will be easy to repair. P50/P51's don't come up too often here and I've never seen a P60/P61 for salw\e. Still wanting to hook up with a nice 655 one day.
What sold me was it sounds almost (I said almost) as good as the 5200.

 

[3000 FPS]

picked this up today, no data plate or good sticker looks like I will have to measure the bore.

I am not an expert on these but I would say by the looks of that exhaust you got into something nice.

 

[joe25DA]

No Joe the K041 mount is not meant for them, the D176 mount is. I think you just made a mistake.

You should also note that the Husky D009 mount will work but needs some spacers on the bar studs for the 9mm slot and that the chain DL count is sometimes different using it.

I sure did. And yes the DL count is different. The bar adjuster on the 3.7 with the Husky bar is turned pretty far out.

 

[OhioGregg]

I sure did. And yes the DL count is different. The bar adjuster on the 3.7 with the Husky bar is turned pretty far out.

Yep, On my 4000 with a Husky 24" bar, its out at the end of adjustment, just barely can get it tight enough with the "Husky chain". But a 28" Husky bar & chain will not work on my 4200 or 5200, without switching to a shorter chain.

That the only real drawback to using Husky bars, is the drive link counts. Not to mention, most Husky bars seem to be .58 gauge, as opposed to most Poulan bars .50 gauge.
It wouldn't surprise me if Oregon stopped making the D176 mount in the not to distant future.
Us Poulan guys use them, but I suspect they don't sell many anymore. Even with the few other saws that might use that mount. who knows.


Gregg,

 

[joe25DA]

Yep, On my 4000 with a Husky 24" bar, its out at the end of adjustment, just barely can get it tight enough with the "Husky chain". But a 28" Husky bar & chain will not work on my 4200 or 5200, without switching to a shorter chain.

That the only real drawback to using Husky bars, is the drive link counts. Not to mention, most Husky bars seem to be .58 gauge, as opposed to most Poulan bars .50 gauge.
It wouldn't surprise me if Oregon stopped making the D176 mount in the not to distant future.
Us Poulan guys use them, but I suspect they don't sell many anymore. Even with the few other saws that might use that mount. who knows.


Gregg,

Yeah, I should grab a couple more. The 4000 I just picked up has what looks to be the orig bar. I havent looked to seeif it has an "S" spacer or the D176 mount. I find most of these saws have the spacer or a husky or homelite bar without. The 3400 I finished had a Sandvik bar with a spacer.
I found an NOS Powermatch for the 4000 in the picture, pulls it nice when it runs! Not sure whats going on with that one, I gotta get it hot and check the ignition.
I think the bigger Echos use the D176 as well.

 

[67 Mustang]

It wouldn't surprise me if Oregon stopped making the D176 mount in the not to distant future.
Us Poulan guys use them, but I suspect they don't sell many anymore. Even with the few other saws that might use that mount. who knows.


Gregg,

Echo is still using the D176 on their larger saws and RedMax used to but it looks like they've switched over to large Husky mount, D009.

 

[dce1843]

my 3400 is being a POS

Ok I picked a 3400 up off craigslist awile back not running. So I figured just a carb kit a fuel lines and I'll be good to go. Well I did that and I still cant get it to run. I vac tested the crankcase and has no vacum leaks. It has a 130 compression. I have checked and rechecked the metering lever and it is set flush with the body of the carb. I have also replaced the vent for the tank and it vents properly. Its got good spark. It just wont run. It'll start very hard, run for a few seconds and die. Needless to say its really pissin me off and Im gonna throw it in the scrap pile very shortly.

 

[3000 FPS]

Ok I picked a 3400 up off craigslist awile back not running. So I figured just a carb kit a fuel lines and I'll be good to go. Well I did that and I still cant get it to run. I vac tested the crankcase and has no vacum leaks. It has a 130 compression. I have checked and rechecked the metering lever and it is set flush with the body of the carb. I have also replaced the vent for the tank and it vents properly. Its got good spark. It just wont run. It'll start very hard, run for a few seconds and die. Needless to say its really pissin me off and Im gonna throw it in the scrap pile very shortly.

Well just throw that sucker my way. You need to get an IPL of the carburetor and make sure you have the gaskets and diaphram back together in the right order. I have done a number of these and still make that mistake. Just double check it no matter if you think you got it right. One other thing I have done is to ultrasonic the carbs to get them clean.

 

[fossil]

Ok I picked a 3400 up off craigslist awile back not running. So I figured just a carb kit a fuel lines and I'll be good to go. Well I did that and I still cant get it to run. I vac tested the crankcase and has no vacum leaks. It has a 130 compression. I have checked and rechecked the metering lever and it is set flush with the body of the carb. I have also replaced the vent for the tank and it vents properly. Its got good spark. It just wont run. It'll start very hard, run for a few seconds and die. Needless to say its really pissin me off and Im gonna throw it in the scrap pile very shortly.

Did you check the impulse passage to make sure it's not blocked by a gasket or something?

The passage runs up through the carb adaptor into the front flange of the carb.

If you want an IPL, Owner's manual amd a shop manual PM me your e-mail and I will send it to you
The 3400 is definitely wirth the trouble, especially after you mod the muffler.
Walbro has very good info on there website and will show you a clear parts explosion.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Did you check the impulse passage to make sure it's not blocked by a gasket or something?

The passage runs up through the carb adaptor into the front flange of the carb.

I did that once or twice using the wrong gasket. It's a pain to figure out when the carbs covering up the evidence.