Nik's Poulan Thread

[67 Mustang]

took my 375 apart to replace fuel lines and do a general, all-around cleanup and inspection. inspecting the fuel and vent lines. wondering on the vent line is there supposed to be a vent on either end? all mine has is a double sided plastic connector on the end of the line inside the tank. looks like this is supposed to be pulled until the long end of this connector goes up into the hole. seems like there should be some type of vent or screw on the other end to keep the fuel from escaping. the IPL doesn't even show the hole in the tank. the shop manual shows the hole and the vent line but says NOTHING about it. what am i missing?

Should have a small duckbill valve attached to the fitting inside the tank, part # 530026119.

 

[Acornhill]

Should have a small duckbill valve attached to the fitting inside the tank, part # 530026119.

Yup, i just picked up a Poulan Pro 375 yesterday, changed fuel line and vent line and cleaned , de burred bar and sharpened chain. she is a runner. 20" b/c. the vent line does have the duck bill on it, the other end had nothing and was just sitting in the area in front of the handle. The fuel line i ran through the U shaped cut out in the saw body (there was a hole it may have run in as well but i choose the U shaped location.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Yup, i just picked up a Poulan Pro 375 yesterday, changed fuel line and vent line and cleaned , de burred bar and sharpened chain. she is a runner. 20" b/c. the vent line does have the duck bill on it, the other end had nothing and was just sitting in the area in front of the handle. The fuel line i ran through the U shaped cut out in the saw body (there was a hole it may have run in as well but i choose the U shaped location.

Doesn't the fuel line go through one and the vent in the other?

 

[Acornhill]

Doesn't the fuel line go through one and the vent in the other?

the angle looked very difficult for the fuel lines if the hole was used, where the vent line comes out it would be a very hard turn up toward the carburetor box. i just put the new vent line where the old one was 9just in front of the handle area). i could be wrong though. the hole in the case would be for the fuel line and the U cut out would be for the vent line??

 

[a. palmer jr.]

the angle looked very difficult for the fuel lines if the hole was used, where the vent line comes out it would be a very hard turn up toward the carburetor box. i just put the new vent line where the old one was 9just in front of the handle area). i could be wrong though. the hole in the case would be for the fuel line and the U cut out would be for the vent line??

The vent on several saws that I've seen doesn't have this duckbill valve either. I don't think it matters as long as you don't turn the saw with the starter side down.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

the angle looked very difficult for the fuel lines if the hole was used, where the vent line comes out it would be a very hard turn up toward the carburetor box. i just put the new vent line where the old one was 9just in front of the handle area). i could be wrong though. the hole in the case would be for the fuel line and the U cut out would be for the vent line??

Who has marks fuel line pics handy? Do they show it? I don't have a saw here right now.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

so does the duckbill go directly on the end of the connector?

 

[Acornhill]

so does the duckbill go directly on the end of the connector?

yes,

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Should have a small duckbill valve attached to the fitting inside the tank, part # 530026119.

to help circumvent the search process, who would have this part?

 

[3000 FPS]

to help circumvent the search process, who would have this part?

I just took the part number and put it in ebay, just the part number by itself and got 12 hits for a duckbill.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

I just took the part number and put it in ebay, just the part number by itself and got 12 hits for a duckbill.

yeah, duh. sorry, got lazy.

 

[Eccentric]

Well, I've already blocked up a red oak (this morning) for a neighbor that was 42" dbh with the old PP655. That thing runs pretty decent with a 36" bar (.375 x .063). I took the rakers down a little and it really pulls.

One word of caution, I made the mistake of buying a new bar (Poulan branded) off of the bay and this guy is putting Chinese tips on poulan bars and I had 2 tips lock solid (had bought 2 bars for 2 655's and even after I had greased them before use). I do have some Sandvick tips to replace them with but it still sucks to have to replace new tips.

Long live the 655, great saws.......

I ran JP's 655BP at the GTG last weekend. Gotta say, those saws live up to all the hype. They're the real deal. Almost as fast as the 'woods ported' MS660 (ported by a respected AS member, and running a well set up chain) that I ran, and noticeably stronger. Leaning on it barely slowed it down. Just produced bigger chips. That model is now at the top of my 'must have' list.

How close is a non-BP 655 (or a P-60 series Pioneer) to the 655BP in performance? Need to know if I can 'live with' (LOL) a non-BP version of this saw...

I'd also like to know which seller was pulling that chicom bar tip #### so I can avoid them in the future.

Yep, On my 4000 with a Husky 24" bar, its out at the end of adjustment, just barely can get it tight enough with the "Husky chain". But a 28" Husky bar & chain will not work on my 4200 or 5200, without switching to a shorter chain.

That the only real drawback to using Husky bars, is the drive link counts. Not to mention, most Husky bars seem to be .58 gauge, as opposed to most Poulan bars .50 gauge.
It wouldn't surprise me if Oregon stopped making the D176 mount in the not to distant future.
Us Poulan guys use them, but I suspect they don't sell many anymore. Even with the few other saws that might use that mount. who knows.


Gregg,

Yeah, I should grab a couple more. The 4000 I just picked up has what looks to be the orig bar. I havent looked to seeif it has an "S" spacer or the D176 mount. I find most of these saws have the spacer or a husky or homelite bar without. The 3400 I finished had a Sandvik bar with a spacer.
I found an NOS Powermatch for the 4000 in the picture, pulls it nice when it runs! Not sure whats going on with that one, I gotta get it hot and check the ignition.
I think the bigger Echos use the D176 as well.

The D176 mount is Oregon's current bar for the Poulans, large Echos, and 10-series McCullochs. I think they'll keep making them for a while longer........probably about as long as they keep making D196 mount bars. I hope that's for a long time.

to help circumvent the search process, who would have this part?

In addition to the on line sellers, you can get them from your local Husky dealer. 530026119 is now a Husky part number as well.

 

[OhioGregg]

I'm to lazy to search now too! But this might show enough to help ya out. The line on the left is the line going under and up to carb. The line on the right, where you can see the white fitting that has the duckbill on it, is the vent. It just gets tucked back under the switch.
By the way, the carb is not on the saw in this pic.:biggrin:

Gregg,

 

[Eccentric]

That's on CLEAN 4000 Gregg. Very nice.

 

[67 Mustang]

yeah, duh. sorry, got lazy.

Here's the link to the thread Mark did on the fuel line replacemant for the 3400/3700/4000 series.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/85259.htm

 

[OhioGregg]

That's on CLEAN 4000 Gregg. Very nice.

Thanks, Thats the nicest 4000 I have. Don't use it for work, just GTG's and such. LOL

Gregg,

 

[OhioGregg]

Here's the link to the thread Mark did on the fuel line replacemant for the 3400/3700/4000 series.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/85259.htm

Theres a man with more patience than I have..LOL Dern search feature!


Gregg,

 

[barneyrb]

I ran JP's 655BP at the GTG last weekend. Gotta say, those saws live up to all the hype. They're the real deal. Almost as fast as the 'woods ported' MS660 (ported by a respected AS member, and running a well set up chain) that I ran, and noticeably stronger. Leaning on it barely slowed it down. Just produced bigger chips. That model is now at the top of my 'must have' list.

How close is a non-BP 655 (or a P-60 series Pioneer) to the 655BP in performance? Need to know if I can 'live with' (LOL) a non-BP version of this saw...

I'd also like to know which seller was pulling that chicom bar tip #### so I can avoid them in the future.





The D176 mount is Oregon's current bar for the Poulans, large Echos, and 10-series McCullochs. I think they'll keep making them for a while longer........probably about as long as they keep making D196 mount bars. I hope that's for a long time.



In addition to the on line sellers, you can get them from your local Husky dealer. 530026119 is now a Husky part number as well.

My 655 is a non BP model but it does have Boysen reeds, the governor blocked off, and the muffler opened up, ZERO port work but it still pulls strong. I am building a 655BP model that should be very strong as it will have all the above plus some internal stuff done (to an engineer the world is a giant toy box full of substandard toys, chainsaws included).

As far as the seller of the bars, I only have his name and am real hesitant to post that in open forum. They were bought last year and off the bay so it is only in my paypal account. These are 36" bars, .375, .063, and the pioneer/poulan mount. They were advertised as NOS even though he had to install the tips, you could tell by looking at the tip it was a home installation with a ball peen hammer sorta chicken####......

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Here's the link to the thread Mark did on the fuel line replacemant for the 3400/3700/4000 series.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/85259.htm

thanks for the link. verry helpful

 

[redunshee]

Theres a man with more patience than I have..LOL Dern search feature!


Gregg,

Gregg, I'm with you . The search function is not very user friendly to say the least.
Bob