Nik's Poulan Thread

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Do carbs just go bad?

NOt POulan related but my new worked on 346XP just starts and dies. I've posted the issue in another Thread. However a question. Have any of you ever just had a carb that couldn't be fixed? Puzzling.
 
Yes!

NOt POulan related but my new worked on 346XP just starts and dies. I've posted the issue in another Thread. However a question. Have any of you ever just had a carb that couldn't be fixed? Puzzling.

I seem to have issues with Walbro WT carbs even after a good cleaning and a new carb kit. Some just don't want be resurrected. It seems that I've heard this elsewhere on this forum as well. All of the saws I'm having trouble with are wearing WTs.

Merry Christmas,

Lee :dizzy::msp_w00t:
 
I seem to have issues with Walbro WT carbs even after a good cleaning and a new carb kit. Some just don't want be resurrected. It seems that I've heard this elsewhere on this forum as well. All of the saws I'm having trouble with are wearing WTs.

Merry Christmas,

Lee :dizzy::msp_w00t:

Thinking that's my problem though it is a Zama,
 
Yes that's where the fuel line goes. Some have a joiner near the tank so you can replace one half or the other without doing the whole thing. Mine I can't seem to get to run from the tank although it has good spark and good comp? Mine is the Craftsman version with chainbrake 2.3 or 38cc.

Merry Christmas

Lee:msp_rolleyes:

I seem to have issues with Walbro WT carbs even after a good cleaning and a new carb kit. Some just don't want be resurrected. It seems that I've heard this elsewhere on this forum as well. All of the saws I'm having trouble with are wearing WTs.

Merry Christmas,

Lee :dizzy::msp_w00t:

Every blue moon I find one that dont want to work as well. Sometimes though a dip in the ultrasonic cleaner fixes them.

I have a bunch of carbs for those if you need one. Probably could find you a WA.

Otherwise, you should have no problem pulling fuel from that saw, If your sure you did the carb right, you need to make sure you do not have a kink in that line someplace. I like to use the 3/32x3/16 line on those instead of the 1/8 ID line as it dont kink as easy.
 
Otherwise, you should have no problem pulling fuel from that saw, If your sure you did the carb right, you need to make sure you do not have a kink in that line someplace. I like to use the 3/32x3/16 line on those instead of the 1/8 ID line as it dont kink as easy.

:agree2: Have rebuilt a fair number of those carbs and have several saws in that category, 2000/2300. It may take a few pulls to get the fuel up to the carb because of the long distance but they should pull fuel OK.
 
NOt POulan related but my new worked on 346XP just starts and dies. I've posted the issue in another Thread. However a question. Have any of you ever just had a carb that couldn't be fixed? Puzzling.

Had one on a 372 and one on a 290 and some others over the past.

Let me know if you want to try that like new 346 carb on the shelf after Christmas. It's been setting about 3 years now.
 
Spray painting setup

After seeing the restorations some of you guys are doing I would like to learn to spray paint. Will my current compressor handle it? It's 2hp---5.7CFM with 90 PSI. If it will what spray gun is recommended? I've got some saws that could use a fresh coat of Sublime green. :msp_biggrin:
 
NOt POulan related but my new worked on 346XP just starts and dies. I've posted the issue in another Thread. However a question. Have any of you ever just had a carb that couldn't be fixed? Puzzling.

Ive seen worn 4 stroke carbs where they leak at the shafts a little, cause running issues.
Some saw or small engine carbs I guess even if they look clean, can still have gunk in them or some other issue. And have seen some were that metering level height is *real* picky.
 
I seem to have issues with Walbro WT carbs even after a good cleaning and a new carb kit. Some just don't want be resurrected. It seems that I've heard this elsewhere on this forum as well. All of the saws I'm having trouble with are wearing WTs.

Merry Christmas,

Lee :dizzy::msp_w00t:

Those WA/WT carbs have a non-serviceable internal check valve deep with in them. Sometimes they get bunged up or 'stuck' and absolutely refuse to get 'unbunged', no matter what I do. As Mark said, a USC will sometimes salvage them. I've been told by a Poulan rep (years ago) that the check valve is plastic and can be damaged by harsh carb cleaners and by high pressure compressed air. When you blow the passages out, use low pressure air or hold the blow gun a good distance away from the carb.........otherwise you will jam the check valve and that carb body will become junk.

When I worked at Sears.........we'd often replace a carb instead of rebuilding it........as the part cost along with the labor for a carb swap was only a few bucks more than the parts/labor cost for doing a rebuild. We'd only do this with the customer's OK of course. They were usually all for the idea, as we could fix the machine while they waited.

Because of this, we built up a drawer full of 'take off' carburetors. During 'down time' in the shop, I'd put kits in the 'take off' carbs and test them on a 'test mule' weed wacker that we kept handy. Was able to maintain a stash of at least 1/2 dozen good working rebuilt carbs that we'd keep to put on warranty repair machines. A real time saver...
 
What bar mount did the OLD Poulans such as a 41 or 53 use? Did they share a bar mount with the old large frame Macs or Homelites perchance (or can either of those be made to work without too much trouble)?

I'm looking for a good useable bar for a guy that's helping me with some other parts. I have a stash of old bars, and am hoping that something in that stash will work. I don't have his saws to test them on unfortunately...
 
ModifiedMark helped me and didn't even know it.

Earlier I mentioned the issue I was having with the carb on my 346xp. Mark mentioned to someone that he uses a USC for stubborn carbs. I remembered that my son has one for reloading so I stuck my carb in it and it now starts and runs fine. Guess they do work and much better than carb cleaner.
Bob
 
Earlier I mentioned the issue I was having with the carb on my 346xp. Mark mentioned to someone that he uses a USC for stubborn carbs. I remembered that my son has one for reloading so I stuck my carb in it and it now starts and runs fine. Guess they do work and much better than carb cleaner.
Bob





Yeah that "old geezer to (soon) be" has picked up a few tricks along the pathway!


Mike
 
:agree2: Have rebuilt a fair number of those carbs and have several saws in that category, 2000/2300. It may take a few pulls to get the fuel up to the carb because of the long distance but they should pull fuel OK.

I've had that experience, too. Takes a bunch of pulls to get them started when cold - after that they run fine.
 
Poulan 2300

Replaced the fuel line and filter and got it idling today. I didn't really tune the high sidefor optimum and it's running a bit rich.

I don't have a chain for the 16" bar so I blocked one side of the oiler hole in an 14" Echo bar and put on one of those Oregon safety chains that needs the safety bumpers ground off.
Made a cut and even video'd it (which didn't work out).

It cuts really well. The oiler is not working and I discovered that the oil line had rotted off so I'll have to pull a new one through.
I thought of trying to fire up an 87 cc off brand I picked up but the muffler on it is like a soup can and with all the talk of the world endng I didn't want t scare the neighbours Christmas Eve.

Lee,

I have had issues before with Walbro's trying to start the saw after all the gas has been cleaned out of the carb and fuel lines and I'm not sure why but I usually just use a syringe full of mix to shoot mix down the carb thrat and keep it running by shooting more in. I found it usually took about 4 or 5 secons to draw the fuel from the tank. After that all was well.

All of you have a great Christmas tomorrow

Tim
 
Replaced the fuel line and filter and got it idling today. I didn't really tune the high sidefor optimum and it's running a bit rich.

I don't have a chain for the 16" bar so I blocked one side of the oiler hole in an 14" Echo bar and put on one of those Oregon safety chains that needs the safety bumpers ground off.
Made a cut and even video'd it (which didn't work out).

It cuts really well. The oiler is not working and I discovered that the oil line had rotted off so I'll have to pull a new one through.
I thought of trying to fire up an 87 cc off brand I picked up but the muffler on it is like a soup can and with all the talk of the world endng I didn't want t scare the neighbours Christmas Eve.

Lee,

I have had issues before with Walbro's trying to start the saw after all the gas has been cleaned out of the carb and fuel lines and I'm not sure why but I usually just use a syringe full of mix to shoot mix down the carb thrat and keep it running by shooting more in. I found it usually took about 4 or 5 secons to draw the fuel from the tank. After that all was well.

All of you have a great Christmas tomorrow

Tim

Good for you, thinking of the neighbors on Christmas Eve! Santa will surely reward you!
If you are talking about the Poulan taking awhile to draw fuel, it seems to take a lot of them a bunch of pulls to get started after the fuel has been emptied, I think it is the combination of no primer bulb and a fairly long fuel line. As for the oiler, you might need to put some diesel, kerosene or even premix in the oil tank to help clean it out. I've also ran some heavy monofilament fishing line thru the oil line to help clear it out.
There is a check valve called a duckbill that might need replacement, too. I need to find out where to get some of those, I think I need a couple on saws I've been working on.

Good luck and Merry Christmas!
 
Good for you, thinking of the neighbors on Christmas Eve! Santa will surely reward you!
If you are talking about the Poulan taking awhile to draw fuel, it seems to take a lot of them a bunch of pulls to get started after the fuel has been emptied, I think it is the combination of no primer bulb and a fairly long fuel line. As for the oiler, you might need to put some diesel, kerosene or even premix in the oil tank to help clean it out. I've also ran some heavy monofilament fishing line thru the oil line to help clear it out.
There is a check valve called a duckbill that might need replacement, too. I need to find out where to get some of those, I think I need a couple on saws I've been working on.

Good luck and Merry Christmas!

Thanks for the tips.

Check valves are easy to find PN 530026119. Used on current models.

Merry Christmas
 
Replaced the fuel line and filter and got it idling today. I didn't really tune the high sidefor optimum and it's running a bit rich.

I don't have a chain for the 16" bar so I blocked one side of the oiler hole in an 14" Echo bar and put on one of those Oregon safety chains that needs the safety bumpers ground off.
Made a cut and even video'd it (which didn't work out).

It cuts really well. The oiler is not working and I discovered that the oil line had rotted off so I'll have to pull a new one through.
I thought of trying to fire up an 87 cc off brand I picked up but the muffler on it is like a soup can and with all the talk of the world endng I didn't want t scare the neighbours Christmas Eve.

Lee,

I have had issues before with Walbro's trying to start the saw after all the gas has been cleaned out of the carb and fuel lines and I'm not sure why but I usually just use a syringe full of mix to shoot mix down the carb thrat and keep it running by shooting more in. I found it usually took about 4 or 5 secons to draw the fuel from the tank. After that all was well.

All of you have a great Christmas tomorrow

Tim

Hey Tim thanks for the tip I'll give that a try. I know it worked with an old Mac 1-42, it's an 80cc beast.

Lee
 
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