Nik's Poulan Thread

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Ok... First off, these saws are great for limb saws. I have more than I can use most of the time and give them to folks that need saws but can't afford them. After a good going over, they are nice little cutters.
The bar y have, though much to large IMO, will fit fine and you can use a full comp chain with no issue.

For the fuel system...
If I were you, I would start with a fuel line replacement and then move to the carb kit. I get line from my local dealer and carb kits from eBay. Get a real Zama kit. I don't want to get into a stens vs this vs OEM battle, but I had trouble with cheap kits when I first got into chainsaws. OEM is pennies more. After that, tune it. These saws usually have the line rotted off inside the tank with the outside lines looking fine.

Inside your fuel cap there is a little star washer pressed over a duck bill. Use a pick to pop out the washer and put in a new duck bill. If nothing is present inside the cap, you may have had the pressed copper looking vent and it is either gone or in the tank. Another option is buying a new cap which is also cheap.

Thanks for the reply on these. I'll get the lines replaced, check the cap, and carb and then check back in.

On the starter cord. Do I need to just shorten it about 4" or so and then rewind it?
 
Thanks for the reply on these. I'll get the lines replaced, check the cap, and carb and then check back in.

On the starter cord. Do I need to just shorten it about 4" or so and then rewind it?

Inside your starter on the wheel gear, there is a little notch. Pull a loop in the cord on the inside between the gear and the housing around a 5 " loop and lay it in the notch. Then turn the starter wheel the way it has resistance to tighten it up 2 turns. The string will loop around the wheel loosely and allow the spring to gain tension.
 
Thanks for the reply on these. I'll get the lines replaced, check the cap, and carb and then check back in.

On the starter cord. Do I need to just shorten it about 4" or so and then rewind it?

Pull a loop of slack at the rope guide next to the pulley. The pulley should have a notch where you can catch the rope to give the pulley another turn or two to increase the preload.

Don't shorten it.
 
Will work on tightening up the cord and thanks for the heads up that.

I was working on taking the carb off to get ready to do the fuel lines but I can't seem to get the throttle linkage off as pictured here on the right side of the photo. Tried unscrewing it at the carb but the screw has a death grip on it. How is this supposed to come apart?View attachment 271547

Again thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Will work on tightening up the cord and thanks for the heads up that.

I was working on taking the carb off to get ready to do the fuel lines but I can't seem to get the throttle linkage off as pictured here on the right side of the photo. Tried unscrewing it at the carb but the screw has a death grip on it. How is this supposed to come apart?View attachment 271547

Again thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

you don't take the lever off of the carb. take the carb mounting bolts loose, pull the carb off, twist the carb til you can remove the linkage out of the slot. to replace everything do the reverse.
 
you don't take the lever off of the carb. take the carb mounting bolts loose, pull the carb off, twist the carb til you can remove the linkage out of the slot. to replace everything do the reverse.

Thanks, I didn't want to muscle it and break anything. Already have carb loose so will pull it off and wiggle out linkage as you said.
 
S25DA/CVA Guide bar plate(s)

Can you guys confirm that there is only one guide bar plate and not two? Two of my 4 don't have any and the other two have 2 each. They all are identical with the two slots and I'm thinking I may have doubled up.
Bob
 
Can you guys confirm that there is only one guide bar plate and not two? Two of my 4 don't have any and the other two have 2 each. They all are identical with the two slots and I'm thinking I may have doubled up.
Bob




According to the IPL Poulan says 2 in Qty. Req'd.


Mike
 
According to the IPL Poulan says 2 in Qty. Req'd.


Mike

I've been wondering about this on some of my smaller poulans, too. The IPLs I've been looking at show NO guide bar plates for the Poulan 1800, 2000 or 2300AV (Poulan 2300AV Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com, for example). The saws I've got don't have them either. I've been having trouble with some of the oilers and have run some monofilament thru the oil line to clear it out, filled the tank with kerosene and let it sit, etc. Some help, but still don't pump well. I've got duckbills on order. Oil pump gear seems to be NLA.

Are these models supposed to have guide bar plates? Am I missing something else?
 
I've been wondering about this on some of my smaller poulans, too. The IPLs I've been looking at show NO guide bar plates for the Poulan 1800, 2000 or 2300AV (Poulan 2300AV Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com, for example). The saws I've got don't have them either. I've been having trouble with some of the oilers and have run some monofilament thru the oil line to clear it out, filled the tank with kerosene and let it sit, etc. Some help, but still don't pump well. I've got duckbills on order. Oil pump gear seems to be NLA.

Are these models supposed to have guide bar plates? Am I missing something else?

Yes you are, missing something important. Bob is asking about S25 saws and your talking Micros!! :bang:

S25s came with 2 bar plates, a inner and outer that were identical while the Micros didn't use any. d

If your still talking about Micros when your talking oiler pump gears I dont have a clue what you talking about.
 
Guess I'm missing 4 then. Are they the same for both sides?

Bob, I think why ya see some S25's with only one bar plate...Is some folks just don't like "messing" with it. :dizzy: There isn't much room on there, with the small stud that the bar & plates rest on, then being held on with a screw (bolt), as opposed to standard saw with two longer bar studs. Kinda like makin a sandwich. To some, I think they just leave the outer one off...cause its easier. My theory anyway.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Bob, I think why ya see some S25's with only one bar plate...Is some folks just don't like "messing" with it. :dizzy: There isn't much room on there, with the small stud that the bar & plates rest on, then being held on with a screw (bolt), as opposed to standard saw with two longer bar studs. Kinda like makin a sandwich. To some, I think they just leave the outer one off...cause its easier. My theory anyway.

:cheers:
Gregg,

Good point Gregg, those 2 roll pins get pushed back into the case by ham fisted operators and end up like you say, hard to get the plates back on.

I pull those pins back out some with a pair of vice grips on them and a couple wacks from a hammer on the vice grips.
 
New to me 3500. I haven't cleaned it at all, doesn't look to have seen much use. :D

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87c8f07736e733d619371a97799f970c.jpg


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894cf6d427f194b3864cfe36fb75c308.jpg

I'm sticking this one in the classifieds, if anyone is interested.
 
My brain aint working right now again. Which Type 1 2 3 was it that was 60cc with the 3500? or was that just on the 3450. :dizzy:

Your thinking 3450, all 3500's are 60cc

Far as I can tell, the 3500 is just a green version of the Poulan Pro 365 which makes it a excellent saw in IMHO.

If there is any difference besides color between the 3500 and the PP365 I aint found what it is yet.
 
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