Nik's Poulan Thread

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Tried to fire up the 25CVA yesterday. First it had no spark. The points were corroded. Now I had a weak spark. New plug. Good spark. The saw would start if you choked it, pulled once and then opened choke, pulled again. If it caught it would only run if you could get it to WOT. It won't idle down. Turning the jets had very little effect.

So today I took the carb apart again. Soaked it in carb cleaner. Double checked gasket orientations. Readjusted fuel metering needle. Blew out the fuel passages with compressed air. Reassembled. Saw would now start and run. The H jet actually did something. It still won't idle down properly.

Took carb apart again. Turns out one of the three low speed jets was totally clogged to the point i didn't know it was there. It was hidden under the small internal gasket in a WA-19 carb (no welsh plugs in this carb). Blew it out well. Reassemble everything again.

Saw fired up and actually idled. I was able to adjust everything pretty easily. Made few cuts in a 12" oak long. Nice running saw overall. Now a buddy already wants to trade for it. :)

One question: Is it normal for fuel to weep through the duckbill check valve in the fuel cap?

Overall opinion of saw: IT NEEDS SPIKES!



On it's collar...and purple hair....and a P.E.T.A. sticker?


Mike
 
poulan 245

Whats the chance a person such as myself would ever find a source for 245 pistons and rings? I have a 245 thats wore out and another coming with a scored top end?
Andy
 
In my experience, if the cap is weeping (when there's a known good duckbill in place), the duckbill isn't fully seated. This can be because there's still some leftover mung from the previous duckbill in the cap, or the star washer isn't seated all the way down. One of my caps does this every once in a while. The cap bore where the duckbill and star washer live is chewed up by the star washer..........and doesn't retain the star washer very well. When it starts weeping, I use a tiny screwdriver to push down all of the 'points' of the washer and it holds fine again for a while. Will probably change out caps on that saw today (and transfer the good duckbill over). Tired of messing with it, and I have some 'spare' caps.

I will double check to see that the star washer is fully seated. It is annoying to have fuel bubble out while the saw is sitting there. The duck bill may actually be a bit large as it was from a free sample kit from these guys: http://www.minivalve.com/newsite/index.php/en/products-and-technology/products/catalog-valves
 
What you have there are 3 of the best of there class and time frame!

As for not owning Stihls, I don't know for everyone but its normal around my place. :givebeer:

It's no accident I chose these models. I don't post a lot but I do read and research a bit before I buy a saw. Your threads have a lot to do with me getting those saws running properly ( the 245A & XXV ). Would you happen to have a pic of the original bar that came on the S25cva? There's nothing wrong with the one on it but I don't think it's from the same era.

As for the Stihl's, I've liked all that I had but the name sells. I sold my MS250 for a decent price here and could have sold six in one day. I bet I could list that 4000 and not get a bite.
 
I bet I could list that 4000 and not get a bite.

Don't think I'd make that bet, if I were you. There are some who can see past the Stihl name to a better value saw.



I wouldn't do that if I were you!!!
There were several guys that I know who were PISSED that, that particular saw was gone before anyone else got a chance to own it.


Mike
 
Craftsman 2.0 not keeping fuel in carb

I've got a Craftsman 2.0 (same as Poulan 2000?) that takes a bunch of pulls on the starter cord to fire. After that, it runs pretty well. I had attributed the hard starting to no primer bulb and a fairly long uphill run from the tank to the carb, making it take awhile for the gas to get there. But when I went to adjust the idle speed today I noticed that almost as soon as the saw cut off, all the fuel drained quickly back down the fuel line into the tank. No wonder it is taking so many pulls to get it started!
Is there a check valve in the carb or something else to keep all the gas from running back into the tank immediately? Can it be repaired?
 
the cap?

I've got a Craftsman 2.0 (same as Poulan 2000?) that takes a bunch of pulls on the starter cord to fire. After that, it runs pretty well. I had attributed the hard starting to no primer bulb and a fairly long uphill run from the tank to the carb, making it take awhile for the gas to get there. But when I went to adjust the idle speed today I noticed that almost as soon as the saw cut off, all the fuel drained quickly back down the fuel line into the tank. No wonder it is taking so many pulls to get it started!
Is there a check valve in the carb or something else to keep all the gas from running back into the tank immediately? Can it be repaired?




if the caps loose or bad they do that worth a look?
 
It's no accident I chose these models. I don't post a lot but I do read and research a bit before I buy a saw. Your threads have a lot to do with me getting those saws running properly ( the 245A & XXV ). Would you happen to have a pic of the original bar that came on the S25cva? There's nothing wrong with the one on it but I don't think it's from the same era.

As for the Stihl's, I've liked all that I had but the name sells. I sold my MS250 for a decent price here and could have sold six in one day. I bet I could list that 4000 and not get a bite.

Alot of people have been starting to blame me for the CAD problems, I'm going to start posting a disclaimer in my post's! :laugh:

As for the bar on your CVA, they came with different ones over the years, the first ones came with hardnose or sprocket tips, mainly plain brushed finished steel. They later came with the bannana nosed control tip bars like whats on yours, but your right the paint and lettering were different on them. They were mostly plain brushed steel finish with black lettering and accents.

Later Poulan Pro models came with black bars, yellow lettering and small control tips on them.
 
Only people that used them around here was the homosexuals!!!!


Mike

Better tell that to this fella, Mike.:D He is pretty fond of them spikes! Me too, actually.:ices_rofl:

PoulanGTG2012034.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,
 
if the caps loose or bad they do that worth a look?

Thats a great piece of advice right there, if the vent in the cap wont hold pressure on it, the fuel drains out fast.

Old stiff pump side diaphragms dont help any either.

Those caps can be a PITA and next time I do one I think I'm going to block the cap vent off completely and put a duckbill in a drilled hole in the tank..
 
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