Nik's Poulan Thread

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I have some strawberry and cherry shine left over that will make you forget all about it. ;)

cherry001.jpg

straw001.jpg

Cherry shine my favorite wish I could get some real stuff only the commercial stuff up here in south jersey
 
Help me out guys I can't remember which bar mount goes on the 3000. Is it the AO41 or KO41? CSCC says AO41 but Bailey's bar selector says KO41..:confused:
 
All the ones I've come in contact with in Canada have 3/8 chains.

Lee

You know Lee you are being very vague with what models or year of manufacture of the saws that you are referring to. For example to my knowlege the 3400,3700,375,395,4000 models all came with 3/8. But like Tim has already posted alot of other models came with .325.

Why do I feel like I am spittin in the wind here. :deadhorse:
 
You know Lee you are being very vague with what models or year of manufacture of the saws that you are referring to. For example to my knowlege the 3400,3700,375,395,4000 models all came with 3/8. But like Tim has already posted alot of other models came with .325.

Why do I feel like I am spittin in the wind here. :deadhorse:

I agree with 3000 alot of later saws came with the .325 chain. I think the 295 came with .325 or at least the ones I have seen that look like stock saws but I do have one that is now 3/8. That is just one example and I would not put a 295 and a wild thing in the same group so that is not the best example. Do you want to run 3/8 or 3/8 low pro.
 
Help me out guys I can't remember which bar mount goes on the 3000. Is it the AO41 or KO41? CSCC says AO41 but Bailey's bar selector says KO41..:confused:

K041 John. There are a few .325-050 16" K041 bars on feebay. You can also use a K095 bar IF you cut an oil passage from each adjuster hole to the chain groove. I used a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutoff wheel to perform this modification to a .058G .325 Husky branded Oregon Power Match for my PP330. You can also use a small grinding stone in a rotary tool to elongate the adjuster holes towards the groove until you 'break through' (or use a mill to do the same thing).
 
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Micro Series Crankshaft Seal SKF #

In a discussion on another chainsaw repair board (hint hint) a fellow posted up an automated CR/SKF seal finder link where you put in the manufacturer's seal part number and it gives you the SKF/CR match. Most Poulan #'s that I tried didn't yield any hits..........but one did.

The 530019059 seal for the Poulan Micro saws came up as 4913 when I omitted the "5300" prefix and entered the # as "19059". This isn't earth shattering however, as the 530019059 seal is still available through Poulan/Husqvarna......

SKF | Online Catalog | Interchange (457012) | Parts Lookup

When you enter "19059" into the system, it comes up as a "Poulan" part and gives you SKF 4913.

Product Datasheet for 4913
 
In a discussion on another chainsaw repair board (hint hint) a fellow posted up an automated CR/SKF seal finder link where you put in the manufacturer's seal part number and it gives you the SKF/CR match. Most Poulan #'s that I tried didn't yield any hits..........but one did.

The 530019059 seal for the Poulan Micro saws came up as 4913 when I omitted the "5300" prefix and entered the # as "19059". This isn't earth shattering however, as the 530019059 seal is still available through Poulan/Husqvarna......

SKF | Online Catalog | Interchange (457012) | Parts Lookup

When you enter "19059" into the system, it comes up as a "Poulan" part and gives you SKF 4913.

Product Datasheet for 4913

I thought that was pretty cool. I didnt even have a idea such things were out there to help us. :rock:

Now to figure out how to put the 475 clutch side seal and find a match. ( I think I listed the NLA side).
 
WOW I just searched the 4913 seal as it apears to be the same as a Homelite 150 (#68519) seal. This post is where google took me. I have picked these up at Motion before for a Micro I was working on and I think I picked up extra. The skf tool works very well sometimes you have to go backwards to old part number to get a cross. The newest homie number didn't show up.
 
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Chain repair

Guys,

I'm not sure where to ask this question but since you are experienced saw guys, I have a chain question.
I have a 24" loop of Oregon 73DPX chain in pretty good shape but it has two broken tie straps (same side of the chain). They are both broken straight through the middle.
I would like to get a couple of straps and presets and try to repair the chain. Is there any reason I shouldn't do that?
I'm asking becasue it seems strange to me that they wouldn't break at the rivet holes.
 
Guys,

I'm not sure where to ask this question but since you are experienced saw guys, I have a chain question.
I have a 24" loop of Oregon 73DPX chain in pretty good shape but it has two broken tie straps (same side of the chain). They are both broken straight through the middle.
I would like to get a couple of straps and presets and try to repair the chain. Is there any reason I shouldn't do that?
I'm asking becasue it seems strange to me that they wouldn't break at the rivet holes.



If it's done right it should be as strong as new. (or stronger)
Check the rakers real good to try to determine if one or more is way too low.
It is unusual that one chain would break two tie straps. Does it give any evidence that it has been real hot?


Mike
 
If it's done right it should be as strong as new. (or stronger)
Check the rakers real good to try to determine if one or more is way too low.
It is unusual that one chain would break two tie straps. Does it give any evidence that it has been real hot?


Mike

I checked the rakers and they are all close to .025. The chain does not appear to worn much where the straps contact the bar and I don't see any evidence of heat. All in all it looks like a good chain except for the straps.
I'm glad I noticed them before I did some cutting.
 
eBay item number 190784557140
Now 5200 cylinder with rings same guy has a 4400 air filter and 4200 piston and rings


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I checked the rakers and they are all close to .025. The chain does not appear to worn much where the straps contact the bar and I don't see any evidence of heat. All in all it looks like a good chain except for the straps.
I'm glad I noticed them before I did some cutting.

any idea what caused the initial failure?

I just shortened a damaged chain with no adverse effects if that is any consolation. it cuts fine.
 
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