Nik's Poulan Thread

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S25 points to electronic ign

Doesnt work. Mark, whoever told you that was correct. The solid state coil is larger than the points one and hits the jug. In other words you would need washers between the coil and cyl. Also the mounting holes on on the cylinders are not in the same locations. Bottom line. It wont work. I could post pics if there is a want. Also the 2.3 is not salvageable. The top ring broke and put 2 long deep gouges in the cyl. Its off to Starr scrap metal for that.
 
There's a Poulan for sale about a half hour from me it's a Poulan S6000 plus parts.Were they good saws?
Thanks
Lawrence

Mark might want that saw. You should email him in case he is not on AS tonight.

There was some discussion on that saw recently - maybe even in this thread. Being on dial-up precludes my doing a search to find out for sure. :(
 
Sold my Craftsman/2000 hybrid for $50. I'm such a sucker.:(
I should have taken a pic of it first. Red,green and black, all mixed up.
 
Needing some help tonight. Working on a 3400. Came to me not running. I put a new fuel line, filter, and carb kit. The saw idles great. When you hit the throttle it starts 4 stroking and then sounds like it's missing and chugging. I'm leaning toward coil going bad. I let it idle for a few minutes and she purrs right along. I can turn the H idle just about all the way in and out and it doesn't change. When I rebuild the carb the metering lever was adjusted properly. So I'm stumped. Could the coil be gapped to high causing this?
 
Needing some help tonight. Working on a 3400. Came to me not running. I put a new fuel line, filter, and carb kit. The saw idles great. When you hit the throttle it starts 4 stroking and then sounds like it's missing and chugging. I'm leaning toward coil going bad. I let it idle for a few minutes and she purrs right along. I can turn the H idle just about all the way in and out and it doesn't change. When I rebuild the carb the metering lever was adjusted properly. So I'm stumped. Could the coil be gapped to high causing this?

Hmmm, sounds kinda like what was happening with my 4000. Turned out the gasket between the cyl and intake was torn and the bolts were loose causing an air leak. Ive also heard that these igns either work or dont.
 
Needing some help tonight. Working on a 3400. Came to me not running. I put a new fuel line, filter, and carb kit. The saw idles great. When you hit the throttle it starts 4 stroking and then sounds like it's missing and chugging. I'm leaning toward coil going bad. I let it idle for a few minutes and she purrs right along. I can turn the H idle just about all the way in and out and it doesn't change. When I rebuild the carb the metering lever was adjusted properly. So I'm stumped. Could the coil be gapped to high causing this?

Nope, I'm leaning on a carb problem. Be carefull with those HDB needle levers, the hooks on them where they fasten to the pin sometimes get bent and wont move the needle right. Or maybe the needle isnt sealing properly.

I put a new one in my Craftsman 3.7 and it would set there and flood itself still. Put another new one in it and it fixed it.
 
Needing some help tonight. Working on a 3400. Came to me not running. I put a new fuel line, filter, and carb kit. The saw idles great. When you hit the throttle it starts 4 stroking and then sounds like it's missing and chugging. I'm leaning toward coil going bad. I let it idle for a few minutes and she purrs right along. I can turn the H idle just about all the way in and out and it doesn't change. When I rebuild the carb the metering lever was adjusted properly. So I'm stumped. Could the coil be gapped to high causing this?

Although it may not be related, my Jred 70E was like this and all I did was take the carb apart and put the old lever in it rather than the one bent per instructions and then it ran perfect.
 
Nope, I'm leaning on a carb problem. Be carefull with those HDB needle levers, the hooks on them where they fasten to the pin sometimes get bent and wont move the needle right. Or maybe the needle isnt sealing properly.

I put a new one in my Craftsman 3.7 and it would set there and flood itself still. Put another new one in it and it fixed it.

I think I'll swap them out from my other saw and see if that fixes it.
 
Just out of curiosity, how much would a used 4000 P&C go for?? I'm not looking to mod my 3800 RIGHT NOW - but I'm just thinking about a project into the late spring.

Another thing to consider is the flywheel, recoil setup. The 4000 uses a differant pulley and flywheel. Its heavier duty. Have never tried to use a 3400, 3700 setup with a 4000 P&C so don't know how they would hold up. Would be curious to find out, however.
Bob
 
Another thing to consider is the flywheel, recoil setup. The 4000 uses a differant pulley and flywheel. Its heavier duty. Have never tried to use a 3400, 3700 setup with a 4000 P&C so don't know how they would hold up. Would be curious to find out, however.
Bob

My Green 4000 started out life as a 3400. I got lucky and found a P/C from a parted out 4000. I swapped them over with no problem. I later changed the fly wheel & starter with ones from a 4000.
It worked fine with the 3400 style starter on it, I just wanted to eventually make the complete change over. The compression is not much different on many of these saws. The 4000 has metal engagement on the starter, as opposed to the plastic one on the 3400.
The flywheel dogs and the starter engagement have to be matched, they won't engage other wise.

Now that I made that clear as mud..LOL I should take a pic of both styles to illustrate it better.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Hey guys, been a while. :cheers:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1598510#post1598510

Well.. I was getting ready to take her apart, & she decided to start run & idle just fine...:dizzy: I have come to the conclusion that she just does not like the cold,(much like myself) Think an adjustment to the air /fuel mix might be the remedy for the problem ?

I've not really noticed any difference in cold or warm weather running with mine. Could possibly take a few extra pulls in very cold weather, don't know if if things are just stiffer then or what, kinda like me.:)

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
My Green 4000 started out life as a 3400. I got lucky and found a P/C from a parted out 4000. I swapped them over with no problem. I later changed the fly wheel & starter with ones from a 4000.
It worked fine with the 3400 style starter on it, I just wanted to eventually make the complete change over. The compression is not much different on many of these saws. The 4000 has metal engagement on the starter, as opposed to the plastic one on the 3400.
The flywheel dogs and the starter engagement have to be matched, they won't engage other wise.

Now that I made that clear as mud..LOL I should take a pic of both styles to illustrate it better.

:cheers:
Gregg,

Good info Gregg. Glad to see either setup will work if used as a matched pair. By the way, curious to find out if you find any differance in the perf. between your 3700 and Super 380? Wonder if design diff. makes one cut faster, etc.. I presume the Super 380 is lighter.
Bob
 
Good info Gregg. Glad to see either setup will work if used as a matched pair. By the way, curious to find out if you find any differance in the perf. between your 3700 and Super 380? Wonder if design diff. makes one cut faster, etc.. I presume the Super 380 is lighter.
Bob

Interesting you mention that Bob.:) There was a thread the other day about chainsaw wieghts, fully filled with oil & fuel. I weighed a few of mine.

4000 20" bar-----19 lbs.
380 20" bar -----17 lbs.
385xp 28" bar ---22 1/2 lbs.

So yea, the 380 is lighter. and its a much higher reving saw too. I hope to be giving it a workout here shortly, been waiting for it to dry up a little around here.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 

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