Nik's Poulan Thread

[leecopland]

Poulan / Craftsman gas cap

Good advice there. I'll add that the Micro is a saw that REALLY needs a healthy pump section in the carb. It has to pull fuel through about 15 miles of fuel line. New diaphragms/gaskets and screens (and a good cleaning) will help.

The earlier fuel caps are also crap. Either they pee fuel on your hand/leg/etc, or they don't breath and the saw will starve for fuel. The current replacement caps are much better and are about $5 and change at your local Husqvarna dealer. It should be a stocking part because of the Husqvarna 23 (rebadged Poulan 2300) and the various rebranded Weedeaters that Husky sold for a while in the 1990's.

530014347 is the current part number for the cap. Here's what it looks like.

Poulan Trimmer Weedeater Fuel Gas Cap 530014347 | eBay

The Home Depot that I work at carries a spare gas cap that works too. It has a built in breather but no keeper thingy, about $4.00

Regards,

Lee

 

[67 Mustang]

Decal Paper

nice job on the decals. any idea where the decal paper can be found? would like to get some but so far am blanking on efforts to find it. thanks much.

I have purchased decal paper on eBay in the past, however the best solution for making decals in my opinion has been at a local International Minute Press. They were very efficient and had a graphics tech on site who took may scans, made corrections/fills where imperfections existed and printed them on white decal paper. It was even cheaper than what it would cost me to purchase the paper. Also, it was done on a color laser printer which I do not have. If you print with inkjet printer you could have issues if the ink gets wet and smears. I'm pleased with the way they turned out. Once installed I coated them with a few coats of clear acrylic to protect them. IIRC I paid approximately $5 for a large sheet of decals. I think the sheets were 11" x 17", and each one had 10 decals printed on them. You'll need a precise size to give the printer also so they can be printed to the correct scale.

 

[joe25DA]

Poulan clamshell

I was reading in another thread About the clamshell huskies an I got to thinking that the other manufacturers used that design way before Poulan. Even the consumer branded micros have a bolt on jug, forget about the 50cc and up saws. So what was the first year and model Poulan with the clamshell? I'm gonna guess in the early 90s? The last of the true pro poulans was the 330, shame Elux cut that one.

 

[3000 FPS]

Ok guys. We are looking at 46cc saws, two clamshells I believe, and one the smaller sister to the legendary 3000. Which to you guys prefer? I've used a 2800 and its a very good saw but you guys may have a differant take. I've never used a 2750 or PP295.
Bob

I have a couple of the PP295 and like them. I have not used the other two that you have mentioned.

 

[Eccentric]

hey aaron, guessing that was the saw i forced on ya. lol. whoda thunk? not me, that's fer sure. got any idea what the hairy stuff is? btw, is that the saw that had a shop sticker on it? if so, can you pm me the shop name for future reference? thanks, jerry

That's the one Jerry. I'm happy with the deal. Problems were easy to fix. I don't have the saw anymore so I can't tell ya what the shop sticker said. I gifted it to Jon1212. He can probably answer you. My guess is that the hairy stuff was the fibers from some kind of tree or brush bark.

I was reading in another thread About the clamshell huskies an I got to thinking that the other manufacturers used that design way before Poulan. Even the consumer branded micros have a bolt on jug, forget about the 50cc and up saws. So what was the first year and model Poulan with the clamshell? I'm gonna guess in the early 90s? The last of the true pro poulans was the 330, shame Elux cut that one.

I don't know what the first year for the clamshell Poulans was. I know they were a 'newer' design when I worked on them (Craftsman branded 2500/2700 and others) at Sears in the early 1990's. Other clamshell designs such as the Homelite XL2 saws were produced since the early 1970's. Here's the early XL2 that I replaced crank seals on around the same time as when I did that Micro. Same seals (used Poulan 530019059 for both saws), but a VERY different experience. Micro=pulling the flywheel and clutch, then pulling and reinstalling seals. XL2=tearing the whole damn saw apart.

 

[rms61moparman]

Ok guys. We are looking at 46cc saws, two clamshells I believe, and one the smaller sister to the legendary 3000. Which to you guys prefer? I've used a 2800 and its a very good saw but you guys may have a differant take. I've never used a 2750 or PP295.
Bob

I really like the 295.
With a bit of port work, a muffler mod and a carb retune, they can be a butt kickin' little saw. I had one that I really loved, but a guy I work with loved it even more!
I prefer my 2750 simply because it doesn't have a chainbrake to break!
The 2800 is a totally different saw and is the best built of the three by far, but also the heaviest.
I've never run a ported 2800 but a guy should be able to make a pocket rocket out of one.
I just can't see leaving it as a 46cc when there are bigger displacement P/C's out there.


Mike

 

[redunshee]

I really like the 295.
With a bit of port work, a muffler mod and a carb retune, they can be a butt kickin' little saw. I had one that I really loved, but a guy I work with loved it even more!
I prefer my 2750 simply because it doesn't have a chainbrake to break!
The 2800 is a totally different saw and is the best built of the three by far, but also the heaviest.
I've never run a ported 2800 but a guy should be able to make a pocket rocket out of one.
I just can't see leaving it as a 46cc when there are bigger displacement P/C's out there.


Mike

Good point Mike. Easily changed to a 3000 or 3300 with a P&C switch. May have to look for a PP295 to fool with.
Bob

 

[Eccentric]

Joe my friend you must be living right. That's another GREAT score. Even has an intact chainbrake setup.

Thanks Aaron. I'm gonna get your saw on it's way this week

Saw went out today. Supposed to arrive by Tues 05/21. Will give you the tracking # later.

 

[watsonr]

Going back A FEW years if I may... had an older gentleman call me for some saw work... brings 4-306 Auto's over to the house. They look like very well put together saws and easy to work on. 3 are bow saws and one standard mount. He has requested I fix one bow saw and keep the rest for my effort. I want to make one of them a standard mount just because the bow is just a little more than I think he can handle now at his improved age and he say's he needs a couple cords a year to keep him happy.


We talked saws an hour at least while I swapped a few parts and gave her a clean bill of health and a new chain.


Will the clutch and drum from the bow fit the standard mounted bar set-up? Looks like a spacer in between the drum and case to extend the spur sprocket to accommodate the bow cover and tensioner in the cover. I have a standard clutch cover and several plates from the leftovers to use. Also have a half wrap to go with it already, just need the clutch and drum to fit up and some bar nuts, bar and chain to make it complete.

Thanks in advance!

 

[homelitejim]

While looking over a Dayton branded 245a that I picked up last week I noticed that it has a decomp right above the muffler. Is this standard on the Dayton saws? I have never seen one on a Poulan 245.

 

[OhioGregg]

While looking over a Dayton branded 245a that I picked up last week I noticed that it has a decomp right above the muffler. Is this standard on the Dayton saws? I have never seen one on a Poulan 245.

I believe the 245SA has a decomp. Along with a Power Sharp. The regular 245 & 245A do not. Mark will be along soon and say I'm wrong. LOL Just a self educated guess on my part.


Gregg,

 

[Modifiedmark]

While looking over a Dayton branded 245a that I picked up last week I noticed that it has a decomp right above the muffler. Is this standard on the Dayton saws? I have never seen one on a Poulan 245.

On the Dayton branded saws I would say the decomp was more standard then not. In fact there were two different styles used as well.

They were also used quite often on the Poulan models but only on the SA/Powersharp models.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I believe the 245SA has a decomp. Along with a Power Sharp. The regular 245 & 245A do not. Mark will be along soon and say I'm wrong. LOL Just a self educated guess on my part.


Gregg,

Nope your dead nuts right. (this time)

 

[barneyrb]

I have a couple of the PP295 and like them. I have not used the other two that you have mentioned.

I really like the 295.
With a bit of port work, a muffler mod and a carb retune, they can be a butt kickin' little saw. I had one that I really loved, but a guy I work with loved it even more!
I prefer my 2750 simply because it doesn't have a chainbrake to break!
The 2800 is a totally different saw and is the best built of the three by far, but also the heaviest.
I've never run a ported 2800 but a guy should be able to make a pocket rocket out of one.
I just can't see leaving it as a 46cc when there are bigger displacement P/C's out there.


Mike

On my little 295 I put a rim drive with a 3/8-7 rim, a 16" lo pro bar, and a loop of Stihl PS3 chain in 60 dl. If you were impressed with that saw running .325 you really need to try it with that set up. Now, 46cc is about as big as I would ever go with lo-pro chain but it is a kicking with that narrower kerf and bigger sprocket.......

 

[3000 FPS]

On my little 295 I put a rim drive with a 3/8-7 rim, a 16" lo pro bar, and a loop of Stihl PS3 chain in 60 dl. If you were impressed with that saw running .325 you really need to try it with that set up. Now, 46cc is about as big as I would ever go with lo-pro chain but it is a kicking with that narrower kerf and bigger sprocket.......

I will have to try that on one of the 295's that I widened the ports on and opened up the muffler, and with a rim it is an easy swap.

My other 295 I widened the exhaust port and raised it just alittle. Then widened the intake and dropped it just alittle. I also dropped the cylinder to get it up to 160 psi. I also directed the tops of the transfer more towards the intake. I advanced the timing about 4 degrees and Dual ported the muffler and have it running at 14,000 rpm. I am running a 7 pin rim with .325 square ground.

 

[3000 FPS]

just wondering...did you drop the cylinder as much as you raised the exhaust port?

I dropped the cylinder about .020. I did not measure how much I raised the exhaust port but I can tell you that it was pretty small. I started with a 150 psi and ended up with 160 psi on the compression and I think it will get even better. I can tell you this that with the compression being alittle higher and the timing being advanced that it can kick back pretty good sometimes. But it sure runs good a 14K.

 

[hemiyota]

5200 oil line

Anyone have any pics of how the oil line attaches to the pump? I just took the pump off of a 5200, and there was nothing there.....no line, spring or pickup. What size line does it take.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Anyone have any pics of how the oil line attaches to the pump? I just took the pump off of a 5200, and there was nothing there.....no line, spring or pickup. What size line does it take.

It originally had a rubber line on it with a spring over it acting like a clamp.

I use a piece of Tygon fuel line, 1/8ID X 3/16OD and that works fine. That line needs to be about 5" long and it had a brass screen/weight on the end of it.

 

[fossil]

Anyone have any pics of how the oil line attaches to the pump? I just took the pump off of a 5200, and there was nothing there.....no line, spring or pickup. What size line does it take.

I just looked at a new pump I have. If you look at the back of the pump you will see a groove that is at the front side of the saw.
The groove is about 1/8" wide or so. It runs from the pick up point where the the hose attaches back to the gear. The hose is attached to a fitting at the end of the groove towards the front of the saw.

If I didn't explain that clearly enough, let me know and I will take a pic but it may not be until the weekend.

 

[hemiyota]

It originally had a rubber line on it with a spring over it acting like a clamp.

I use a piece of Tygon fuel line, 1/8ID X 3/16OD and that works fine. That line needs to be about 5" long and it had a brass screen/weight on the end of it.

I just looked at a new pump I have. If you look at the back of the pump you will see a groove that is at the front side of the saw.
The groove is about 1/8" wide or so. It runs from the pick up point where the the hose attaches back to the gear. The hose is attached to a fitting at the end of the groove towards the front of the saw.

If I didn't explain that clearly enough, let me know and I will take a pic but it may not be until the weekend.

Thanks for the replies. What does the line attach to? Is there supposed to be a nipple on the pump body?