Nik's Poulan Thread

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Also, there was a pretty lengthy discussion about sourcing the K&N filter setup some time ago. I have no idea what thread it was in. IIRC, one of our guys, his name slips me right now, said they could be sourced for a concrete saw. Anyone ever nail that down? I'd love to convert to the K&N filter setup!
 
$30 for rings or $60 for piston and rings? Hmmm? Anyone know if Bryce is selling OEM or AM pistons here? Poulan 655 Pioneer 62 P62 Piston and Rings Chainsaw STBX782 | eBay

Also, there was a pretty lengthy discussion about sourcing the K&N filter setup some time ago. I have no idea what thread it was in. IIRC, one of our guys, his name slips me right now, said they could be sourced for a concrete saw. Anyone ever nail that down? I'd love to convert to the K&N filter setup!

It's a good bet that those on eBay are OEM. They are all set for use in a BP cylinder, too. You may want to send him a message to ensure, though.

I think CPR was the member here that found the K&N filter setups ...
 
Pop the jug off, wrap a clean cloth around the connecting rod to keep any debris out of the crankcase.
Take some fine emery cloth and buff lightly ACROSS the gouge to remove any sharp edges. Finish with a light buffing of 0000 steel wool. Clean everything up real well and put it back together with just Moto-Seal and leave the base gasket on the bench.
Run it like you stole it!
JMHO


Mike
 
Pop the jug off, wrap a clean cloth around the connecting rod to keep any debris out of the crankcase.
Take some fine emery cloth and buff lightly ACROSS the gouge to remove any sharp edges. Finish with a light buffing of 0000 steel wool. Clean everything up real well and put it back together with just Moto-Seal and leave the base gasket on the bench.
Run it like you stole it!
JMHO


Mike

Why Dr. Moparman, she may live to a ripe ol age with that prescription. Feed something with an ester or castor oil in its diet during recovery and it will act like a spring chicken again.
 
Pop the jug off, wrap a clean cloth around the connecting rod to keep any debris out of the crankcase.
Take some fine emery cloth and buff lightly ACROSS the gouge to remove any sharp edges. Finish with a light buffing of 0000 steel wool. Clean everything up real well and put it back together with just Moto-Seal and leave the base gasket on the bench.
Run it like you stole it!
JMHO


Mike

Yep. Those marks look like carbon scratches to me. A careful removal of carbon deposits in the exhaust port would be a good idea while it's apart. I though about pulling my 4000 apart to remove the base gasket, but it runs so damn well that I'll just leave it as-is for a while.:D
 
WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Very succesful day in the shop. both the 306A and the Super 68 started and ran!!! now ive just got to clean up the bow and mount and bolt it back on the Super 68, and find some of that anaerobic permatex for the 306A. Thanks for all the help and advice along the way fellas!

I have some of the red anaerobic permatex here but I don't use it any more since I started using Permatex MotoSeal. I like it lots better.
 
Is it safe with gas? I couldn't find the anaerobic at either auto parts store. I'll look for the motoseal. Thanks Mark.

oh yeah! that's what i use on my saws. good stuff. also goes by the names of yamabond, hondabond, etc. i get my motoseal at the local autozone but they have to order it. the bike brands can be bought at the various dealerships. unless you build several saws a day one tube should last you a while. be sure and screw the cap on tight.
 
Struck oil............!

Struck Oil......(but didn't really want to).

Been rebuilding a Micro XXV (New Cylinder, Piston Ring, Coil, Plug, Rebuilt Carb, New Fuel Line and filter, new bar, new chain, yada, yada, yada...).

Fired it up this evening...runs great...BUT: This thing is just pouring oil!

By what means does the Micro meter oil? What would be the most likely cause of this problem. I have got to get this fixed...or I've done a lot of work for nothing. :msp_unsure:

Thank you in advance,

Flint.
 
Struck Oil......(but didn't really want to).

Been rebuilding a Micro XXV (New Cylinder, Piston Ring, Coil, Plug, Rebuilt Carb, New Fuel Line and filter, new bar, new chain, yada, yada, yada...).

Fired it up this evening...runs great...BUT: This thing is just pouring oil!

By what means does the Micro meter oil? What would be the most likely cause of this problem. I have got to get this fixed...or I've done a lot of work for nothing. :msp_unsure:

Thank you in advance,

Flint.

The micro xxv's were never stingy oilers to begin with. The amount of oil was metered through the orifice in the oil pump. That said there is a tank vent in the side of the oil tank near the bar pan with a cotter pin through it. Make sure the cotter pin is free and the vent not plugged up which will allow excess pressure in the oil tank and could allow excess oiling..

Next pull the oil pump and make sure the tube between the pump and the bar pad is intact and not broken. A broken tube will allow the pressurized tank to force unmeatered oil out the bar pad oiler hole.
 
Poulan 3700

Decided to part with one of my 3700's. Thought I should run it to see how it fares. Put bar oil in the saw and noticed it leaking out while the saw was on its side. After further inspection I saw oil leaking out of the oil tank vent hole where the cotter pin is located. The cotter pin is very loose and can be pulled out 1/8" or more. Don't tell me I have to split the case to fix it, please?????

Bob
 
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Decided to part with one of my 3700's. Thought I should run it to see how it fares. Put bar oil in the saw and noticed it leaking out while the saw was on its side. After further inspection I saw oil leaking out of the oil tank vent hole where the cotter pin is located. The cotter pin is very loose and can be pulled out 1/8" or more. Don't tell me I have to split the case to fix it, please?????

Bob

you can reach through the fill hole and bend the cotter pin to remove it. slide a bigger one in and bend the legs back so it still moves around in the hole. you don't want it tight. they all leak like that, it's normal. to hell with the epa:hmm3grin2orange:
 
you can reach through the fill hole and bend the cotter pin to remove it. slide a bigger one in and bend the legs back so it still moves around in the hole. you don't want it tight. they all leak like that, it's normal. to hell with the epa:hmm3grin2orange:

I'm not talking about a drip. On its side there is a small steady stream leaking out. Bet it would empty the tank given enough time. I'll see if I can find the find the pin in the inside of the tank. Seems to be pretty far to the left of the outlet hole.
Bob
 
I'm not talking about a drip. On its side there is a small steady stream leaking out. Bet it would empty the tank given enough time. I'll see if I can find the find the pin in the inside of the tank. Seems to be pretty far to the left of the outlet hole.
Bob

I think they all leak some when on their side. I just get everything ready before I fuel but there's still a small puddle.

Keep your wedges handy if you're felling.
 
I'm not talking about a drip. On its side there is a small steady stream leaking out. Bet it would empty the tank given enough time. I'll see if I can find the find the pin in the inside of the tank. Seems to be pretty far to the left of the outlet hole.
Bob

hey bob, can't you just grab it with a pair of pliers and ease it out? course bending the ends would be the trick when you put your new one in.
 
hey bob, can't you just grab it with a pair of pliers and ease it out? course bending the ends would be the trick when you put your new one in.

Yea, I'm thinking of that Jerry,. I looked inside the oil tank and it may be easier try to tighten the existing cotter pin. I think I can get to it with a long thin screwdriver and possibly spread it out more thus tightening it up. Plan to give it a shot.
Bob
 

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