Nik's Poulan Thread

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I started into a 2800 tonight. Well taken care of, low hour judging by a spotless p/c with great compression and over all lack of wear. I will post pictures when its complete, but was wondering a first year on these. Every piece including the flywheel is stamped '86, the earliest of this line Ive seen were '87. Also I could have sworn these saws had 4 bolts total holding it to the jug, 2 long the hold the front, baffle and spacer and 2 short that hold the back. This saw has only 1 short bolt on the back. Either way, its a nice saw Im looking forward to using.

Got me Joe. My 2800, 2700, 3000 all have 4 cylinder bolts, all the same length.
 
Not sure about the bore diameter but the comp was 3400 like at about 130psi. Do you take the muffler off to measure the bore?

Lee
Yup. Remove muffler, at least the outer half. I use a micrometer to measure piston diameter but others use popsicle sticks, etc. Anything that you can place in the cylinder on top of the piston.
 
Not sure about the bore diameter but the comp was 3400 like at about 130psi. Do you take the muffler off to measure the bore?

Lee

The easiest way to get a fairly good (but not perfect) measure of the cylinder bore is to pull the front off the muffler so you have access to the exhaust port.
Rotate the crank so the piston is below the port.
Insert something soft like a plastic straw or a wooden popsicle / tonque depressor stick and hold it so it's touching the rear cylinder wall, centred as much as possible. Run the piston into it just hard enough to make an imprint and measure the marks on the stick / straw with a vernier.
Something with a rounded end is better so no square shoulders are preventing the stick / straw from touching the back cylinder wall.
You should be able to get within a couple of thou.

WHOOPS, Didn't see that Bob already answered the question. Picking up a new laptop tonight.
 
I finally got my 3400 up and running nicely. I tried a different Oregon bar on it but the chain seem to bind so went back to the original banana bar which still needs more filing or replacing. quote]

Lee,
I've had chain binding issues with bar / chain changes and found that the bar plates seem to bind the chain.
Have a good look top and bottom and see if the chain links are into the plates causing binding. A little tweaking of the plates fixed the issue.
A good test to see if it's the plates is to back the clutch cover clamp nuts off a bit and see if the chain rotates smoothly
 
I just saw one on the salvage site over at Duke's. P & C both for $45. Maybe that helps... :shrugs:

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I've got two cylinders but no pistons. Actually that's not true as I have two NOS 3400 P&C's but I'm going to try porting and don't want to screw up a good P&C.
 
I don't know if any of you have discovered this place that seems to have a good amount of Poulan IPL's. I can't seem to find a way to access them directly but can access them by googling (?)

Klippo Poulan 361 IPL or whatever model you want to plug in there.

The Klippo company is Swedish.
Here's one I pulled off for a Micro XXV CVA. Looks different than the other one I have as far as layout.
 

Attachments

  • Klippo micro XXV CVA IPL.pdf
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For any of you guys needing a cheap bar and chain, Baileys has some real cheap deals on closeout- and the shipping is 9.95 UPS ground through midnight. Thought I would pass it on, grabbed a couple last night (Husky small mount). Figured at 15 bucks for a bar and chain, and a little grinding I can have a nice setup for my Sears 3.3 and the 330. I didn't know if the DL count would match up, but either way they were cheap and will find a home on one of these saws.
 
Got a 2007 P4018WT Wild Thing that was given to me in none running condition, thirty minutes later it was running like a scalded dog, cleaned up like a new saw. I use it when we are cutting trees that have fallen in the creek. My question is how can you tell what type it is. I know it's a strato engine but that's all. Half of the emission label is gone.

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4200 bow saw, i have it running fairly well but the clutch is slipping, tonight i removed the clutch and cleaned it very well and flipped the springs around. The clutch did have a lot of residue built up around it as well as the drum. I think it was either tar or creosote from what ever the saw was used for previously. I hope this will stop the clutch from slipping. What do you guys think?
 
4200 bow saw, i have it running fairly well but the clutch is slipping, tonight i removed the clutch and cleaned it very well and flipped the springs around. The clutch did have a lot of residue built up around it as well as the drum. I think it was either tar or creosote from what ever the saw was used for previously. I hope this will stop the clutch from slipping. What do you guys think?

The springs only cause the clutch to collapse and unload at lower rpm's. The crap in there would definitely have an effect on the clutch. If that doesn't work you may have a lot of wear on the clutch shoes or the drum. It takes a lot to pull those bows so it will likely slip a little easier than with a regular bar. I ran a 5200 with a bow and it slipped as well but I don't know what condition the clutch was in.
 
Oiling question for you all, I have all old poulans. 3400`s, 3,7`s and a 4000. I seem to have trouble with dry chains. I have run the saws with no bar and some oil comes out but I don`t know how much is right. I have read in cold weather to mix a little kerosene or diesel in the bar oil, If so how much. I bring my bar oil in the house at night but the saws stay outside. Temps here were right around zero for a long time and it is just starting to warm up. Does anyone know of diaphragm material to use. Thanks.
 
4200 Done for now, I am going yo use this saw so I have a copy of the decal on it for now.
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