Nik's Poulan Thread

[Acornhill]

Yes it works great now. I have it set so the chain moves ever so slightly at idle like a funny car at the starting line

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[Modifiedmark]

4200 Done for now, I am going yo use this saw so I have a copy of the decal on it for now.

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Goo Job for sure. That 4200 has enough power to work a bow for sure.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks to Carl, I go another 4200 the other day.

 

[Acornhill]

Hmm I wonder what is in therefore.

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[Acornhill]

Oh boy

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[redunshee]

Be sure to clean the sprocket bearing as well. If its dirty

Thanks to Carl, I go another 4200 the other day.

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nice HeavyDuty!

 

[67L36Driver]

Thanks to Carl, I go another 4200 the other day.

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You are very welcome.

 

[redunshee]

Oiling question for you all, I have all old poulans. 3400`s, 3,7`s and a 4000. I seem to have trouble with dry chains. I have run the saws with no bar and some oil comes out but I don`t know how much is right. I have read in cold weather to mix a little kerosene or diesel in the bar oil, If so how much. I bring my bar oil in the house at night but the saws stay outside. Temps here were right around zero for a long time and it is just starting to warm up. Does anyone know of diaphragm material to use. Thanks.

I'vevread that the new oils are all season but not positive. Have you checked to see if more oil is flowing by using the manual oiler? I'd mix enough kerosene so it flows better. Suppose its a trial and error method.

 

[fossil]

I could sure use some opinions on which direction I should take.
The saw is not a Poulan but the red saw thread is kind of dead. It's an any saw question.
It starts well and runs strong. It is slow to return to idle after going through a cut but not when it's momentarily rev'd up. The idle does not stay at a consistent speed. It behaves as if it has a vacuum leak. The saw 4 strokes when lifted in the cut.
The saw will not run well without having the throttle butterfly fairly far open. The idle speed adjust is all the way in. I wonder if that is masking a vacuum leak?
The idle mixture screw is at 3/4 turns out. The high is at one turn out.

Here's what I've checked;
The saw does this hot or cold.
The saw holds vacuum of 6 psi. I turned the crank over a few times while under vacuum.
The saw hold 10 lbs of pressure.
Compression is 170 lbs
The carb is a governed HS with the governor blocked off with a piece of pop can and the threads sealed with Motoseal
I put a new kit in the carb and carb to adaptor gasket and it holds 7 lbs of pressure.
The throttle shaft is good with no perceptible play in it
It has new fuel line and a new fuel filter.

I'm leaning towards new crank seals thinking that maybe they are leaking when the saw warms up.
or do you think I may have a carb issue?

Any opinions would be appreciated as always.

 

[redunshee]

Boy Tim, if you hadn't posted the vacuum figure I would have said you need new seals. Have you tested vacuum at a higher number? I assume the gauge returns to 6psi after you turn the saw over?
Bob

 

[fossil]

Boy Tim, if you hadn't posted the vacuum figure I would have said you need new seals. Have you tested vacuum at a higher number? I assume the gauge returns to 6psi after you turn the saw over?
Bob

6 lbs of vacuum is all it will hold. It does hold that well and I did crank it over while under vacuum a few times.
The carb throttle butterfly is what's baffling me. Why would it need to be so far open to idle? The Stihl manuals spec (the only place I've found a number in the docs I have) a minimum of 4.2 psi of vacuum.

 

[redunshee]

6 lbs of vacuum is all it will hold. It does hold that well and I did crank it over while under vacuum a few times.
The carb throttle butterfly is what's baffling me. Why would it need to be so far open to idle? The Stihl manuals spec (the only place I've found a number in the docs I have) a minimum of 4.2 psi of vacuum.

Maybe the carb needs to be USC'd. I agree you have a weird situation. My vacuum tests hold steady at 10 in hg. Not sure what the corresponding psi is.

Just checked and 10 in hg is 4.9 psi. I'd say your 6 psi is good.

 

[fossil]

Maybe the carb needs to be USC'd. I agree you have a weird situation. My vacuum tests hold steady at 10 in hg. Not sure what the corresponding psi is.

Just checked and 10 in hg is 4.9 psi. I'd say your 6 psi is good.

I wonder if the seals are acting up when they get warm or when the crank is going at speed? I think I'll put new seals in it and at least eliminate that possibility.
I put some Seafoam in the tank and ran it through before I shut it down to see if that would help as well.

 

[Acornhill]

This may sound dumb, check the clutch if it is slipping it could cause false revving issues. Just a guess.

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[Acornhill]

Surprise, guess what my new green saw turned out to be?

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[fossil]

Thanks, the clutch is OK. I had the bar buried in frozen wood (as if there is any other kind around this winter) and it pulled really well.

 

[3000 FPS]

Thanks, the clutch is OK. I had the bar buried in frozen wood (as if there is any other kind around this winter) and it pulled really well.

I think if it were me I would try and replace the carburetor.

 

[ILikesEmGreen]

Surprise, guess what my new green saw turned out to be?

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Well, golly...since noone else is curious, I'll sure as heck speak up....What is it?!? The suspense is killing me.

 

[redunshee]

5200?

 

[redunshee]

I wonder if the seals are acting up when they get warm or when the crank is going at speed? I think I'll put new seals in it and at least eliminate that possibility.
I put some Seafoam in the tank and ran it through before I shut it down to see if that would help as well.

Always a possibility. Replacing them would at least eliminate one possibility.