Nik's Poulan Thread

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You should try to use a driving plate or a thick socket to help distribute the load when you first start them in them. I can't
"freehand start" those small seals with a plastic hammer, as they either roll over, or else one side starts & the other doesn't.

I have a pair of both National & SKF seals at the house, and will see if there is a place to measure the rim thicknesses. AutoZone has the
Nationals for three or four dollars each, as they're used in a transmission on some older GM products.
I used a deep well socket that fit the o.d. of the seal. But with that sharp edge on the case the seal caught and bent. I really should have put my glasses on. I chamfered the case openings but had to order some more seals.
 
He is the man.

I got the red Craftsman 3.7 (actually a 3800 top end) cutting great last weekend, but do you know what an "average"
axial end play should be in those series? The service manual uses special drivers to set the bearings, and the driver rims
are the stops for final location.

I may have to pull both the seals & reset the needle bearings inward with a custom lathed off tool,
as it's over 0.032". But it runs strong, no seal leakage, and the brass thrust washers inside the crankcase
looked fine (from the edges of them).



If it is running strong............don't %*^# with it!!!
Too little clearance there is a LOT worse than too much.

Anyway, it is a lot easier to convince the "other saw" snobs that your saw is just a worn out piece of junk if there is a lot of play there.
Then you fire it up and kick their azz, and NEVER let them live it down!!!!!!!
That is a game of which I NEVER tire! :D


Mike
 
Here are some of my spare used parts
yhenygy3.jpg


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That was my prob. that outer edge was way too sharp and the edge of the seal caught on the case and rolled it. Oh well I better pick up a dozen just to make sure. Thanks for the tip I will chamfer that edge a little. And maybe put my glasses on.

Both seals were .025" wall, BUT the SKF have a slight taper inward and Timken /Nationals were cut straight on the end. They sure are fragile looking little seals, but seem to work fine
 
You should try to use a driving plate or a thick socket to help distribute the load when you first start them in them. I can't
"freehand start" those small seals with a plastic hammer, as they either roll over, or else one side starts & the other doesn't.

I have a pair of both National & SKF seals at the house, and will see if there is a place to measure the rim thicknesses. AutoZone has the
Nationals for three or four dollars each, as they're used in a transmission on some older GM products.
are you talking about national 253747? if so, sure would be convenient to get some at autozone. say its so; say its so.
 
can someone school me on the difference of the 5200 top covers and when they were offered etc. I have several of both the single middle nut attachment and the 3 corner screw attachment covers. Some black some green, Also the black professional series starter covers are seriously heavier/stronger than the earlier style 4200/5200.
 
can someone school me on the difference of the 5200 top covers and when they were offered etc. I have several of both the single middle nut attachment and the 3 corner screw attachment covers. Some black some green, Also the black professional series starter covers are seriously heavier/stronger than the earlier style 4200/5200.


The early 5200's came with green top covers with a single hold down. The black cover with a single hold down came next and I think it came at the same time as the front reinforcements on the crankcase.
After that was the 3 screw black cover.

The HD recoil cover you refer to actually came out on the 5400 type saws. They used 1/4" allen screws for fasteners instead of the 10-24 oval head screws. There was actually a HD cover kit and it came with 2 sets of fasteners. One set of standard 1/4" allen heads and a special set of stepped allen head bolts. They were 1/4" but had a step down to 10-24 to fasten them on the 4200-5200 saws. The later covers also were setup to use the early 4200-5200 recoil springs as well as the newer recoil springs that used a round loop on the end instead of the early oval type loop.
 
The early 5200's came with green top covers with a single hold down. The black cover with a single hold down came next and I think it came at the same time as the front reinforcements on the crankcase.
After that was the 3 screw black cover.

The HD recoil cover you refer to actually came out on the 5400 type saws. They used 1/4" allen screws for fasteners instead of the 10-24 oval head screws. There was actually a HD cover kit and it came with 2 sets of fasteners. One set of standard 1/4" allen heads and a special set of stepped allen head bolts. They were 1/4" but had a step down to 10-24 to fasten them on the 4200-5200 saws. The later covers also were setup to use the early 4200-5200 recoil springs as well as the newer recoil springs that used a round loop on the end instead of the early oval type loop.


How in the heck do you remember all that.

So the one I have is a one screw top, green and has no rib on the front. An early one. Thanks Mark.
 
Working on the 5200 and this falls out of the carb mounting area when I flip the saw over. What is it?
3eveqe6y.jpg


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