Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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ILikesEmGreen
Another crazy Poulan Fan
That thing is coming along quite nicely....almost done!
That's going to be a nice saw. I have a complete 306/245 bow setup here, all but the bow itself that I was thinking of using on a 306.
Here is my 245A bow saw
nice original saw mark,
what I do not like about the design on the 245 is how close the coil wire is to the muffler. I think I am going to go with an alternative muffler so I can stay away from the coil wire. I sold all of my original steel mufflers anyway. I have an NOS cast one but not sure I want to put it on this saw. I have been looking for a reasonably priced 245A for a long time and jumped on this one when it came up available.
I'm not that crazy on that design either but in all honesty, I don't think its a issue. I never really see it become a problem on these. Remember when that saw was designed in 68 that they used a ND flywheel and a coil with a smaller dia high tension lead.
Muffler designs changed also.
Muffler designs changed also.
the coil wire is dated 1972 on this one, and is in bad shape but works. I cleaned and re taped it where it comes by the muffler. I installed a new boot this morning.
Can you make some kind of heat shield that won't be noticeable?
Got to love the little guys line routing. Sticker says 1995 2150.
Acornhill
Did you already pressure & vac test it? I don't want to be a storm cloud pessimist type, but most (if original) are leakers on the PTO side inner crank seal & that thin case body O-ring.
I use the fiberglass heat sleeves from blown heater limit switches for the spark plug wire covering at the muffler point of contact, fits & works well. I had some coil pics in old post, but the hackers got them. The smaller Poulan blowers use the black colored sleeving, same material, and the white turns black from dirt & grime anyway... PM me & I'll mail you a section to use, as one switch side fits a plug wire.
Did you already pressure & vac test it? I don't want to be a storm cloud pessimist type, but most (if original) are leakers on the PTO side inner crank seal & that thin case body O-ring.
I use the fiberglass heat sleeves from blown heater limit switches for the spark plug wire covering at the muffler point of contact, fits & works well. I had some coil pics in old post, but the hackers got them. The smaller Poulan blowers use the black colored sleeving, same material, and the white turns black from dirt & grime anyway... PM me & I'll mail you a section to use, as one switch side fits a plug wire.
racer1970
ArboristSite Member
Hey Guys can anyone point me to info on porting and increasing compression on a micro saw.... as i have quite a few and thought i would play with one by maybe some light porting and giving it a bit more squeeze. i know i have seen it somewhere but cant remember now....
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
Just rebuilt a Micro XXV with newer p&c and seals and cleaned out the oiler check valve, replaced oil line, replaced foam oil filter, and made gaskets for the oiler. Also had to fool with the crank/rod needle bearings as they had and executed an escape plan. Let's just say there wont be any skeeters around. I'm guessing it's burning bar oil. Or, could it be the oiler check valve? Need some help here. Per the SM there is no gasket between the case halves. First thought it was the grease I used to hold the bearings in place but after a few mintes decided that's probly not it.
ILikesEmGreen
Another crazy Poulan Fan
Original finish or repaint? Either way, dang good looking bow!
Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
ILikesEmGreen
Another crazy Poulan Fan
Nice! Thought it looked awfully shiny. 
Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
thanks Brandon,
can it be disassembled and duck bill replaced or need whole new unit? also, what's the best way to clean the check valve?
double post
in the check valve behind the screen is a duck bill that lets compression pressure in oil tank to push out oil to chain/bar. if the duck bill breaks / melts into a goo than the oil gets sucked into the crankcase causing the smoking issue. I have grinded just enough of the body of the check valve off to remove the screen and install a new check valve before, I than mixed up some JB weld and installed the screen back on the valve. worked so far.
ChipsFlyin
ArboristSite Guru
3400 question. I have a replacement clutch shoe for the 3400 and just realized I lost the thrust washer also. I have a washer that fits perfect to the arbor of the bearing. Can I use it? If so, how much play should the drum have? ie 64th, 32nd, 16th, .5mm, .25mm , nothing. If not able to use, any measurements of the washer? I have a local old school hardware store that has that wooden drawer set up with nuts and bolts that's been going out of business for 5 years... Everything in the drawers is cheap cheap cheap. They might just have something that will work. I can't see spending $1.50 plus shipping for something I can get for a quarter.
Thanks.
Mark
Thanks.
Mark
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