Nik's Poulan Thread

[Acornhill]

3400 question. I have a replacement clutch shoe for the 3400 and just realized I lost the thrust washer also. I have a washer that fits perfect to the arbor of the bearing. Can I use it? If so, how much play should the drum have? ie 64th, 32nd, 16th, .5mm, .25mm , nothing. If not able to use, any measurements of the washer? I have a local old school hardware store that has that wooden drawer set up with nuts and bolts that's been going out of business for 5 years... Everything in the drawers is cheap cheap cheap. They might just have something that will work. I can't see spending $1.50 plus shipping for something I can get for a quarter.

Thanks.
Mark

Gas is $4.00 a gallon and my time is worth much more than that.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

And some of us just like old school hardware stores...kinda like old saws.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Gas is $4.00 a gallon and my time is worth much more than that.[/QU

I already figured that in. Believe me there's no special trips for small ticket items these days due to the gas prices... Would do a quick in and out if driving by. If I would hypothetically figure in a couple minutes rate of an RN and the washer I am below the $1.50 price. Plus, I would grab additional items that I need for other projects. It would take the same amount of time to search and order the part on line or make a few phone calls

Thanks.
Mark

 

[fossil]

3400 question. I have a replacement clutch shoe for the 3400 and just realized I lost the thrust washer also. I have a washer that fits perfect to the arbor of the bearing. Can I use it? If so, how much play should the drum have? ie 64th, 32nd, 16th, .5mm, .25mm , nothing. If not able to use, any measurements of the washer? I have a local old school hardware store that has that wooden drawer set up with nuts and bolts that's been going out of business for 5 years... Everything in the drawers is cheap cheap cheap. They might just have something that will work. I can't see spending $1.50 plus shipping for something I can get for a quarter.

Thanks.
Mark

There's a fair bit of play on the clutch drum. As long as the shoes stay within the drum you're OK

Not sure which washer you lost but the little one which goes between the engine case and the spur or rim is,
ID 0.52" (Was likely 0.050" when new)
OD 1.31"
Thick 0.050"

The large washer that goes between the clutch shoes and the drum

ID 0.404"
OD 2.62"
Thick 0.060

 

[Hoggwood]

FWIW: I might add, I just got two new in box old stock Oregon rim sprockets for the 3400 - 4000 series saws right from Oregon. When I went to swap them out, the washer that Oregon supplies for use on the sprocket case/clutch side is not even a close match for the crank diameter. I cannot say if that is a common occurance with Oregon.

Cory

 

[fossil]

FWIW: I might add, I just got two new in box old stock Oregon rim sprockets for the 3400 - 4000 series saws right from Oregon. When I went to swap them out, the washer that Oregon supplies for use on the sprocket case/clutch side is not even a close match for the crank diameter. I cannot say if that is a common occurance with Oregon.

Cory

They will likely send a drill bit of the appropriate size next week. I feel almost sure of that.
Seriously, I've never had an issue with their sprocket washers. On the other hand they have never sent me one with their rim sprockets for that series.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

There's a fair bit of play on the clutch drum. As long as the shoes stay within the drum you're OK

Not sure which washer you lost but the little one which goes between the engine case and the spur or rim is,
ID 0.52" (Was likely 0.050" when new)
OD 1.31"
Thick 0.050"

The large washer that goes between the clutch shoes and the drum

ID 0.404"
OD 2.62"
Thick 0.060

Thanks for pulling out your calipers!! It was the first one you listed.
Mark

 

[fossil]

Thanks for pulling out your calipers!! It was the first one you listed.
Mark

If you can't find one thin enough, look in the stainless steel washer bins. They are usually thinner

 

[Acornhill]

Ok I have it Very bad this week 3700 bow that is very complete, anyone like to comment on the super nice bar guard's, feel free I will post the after in a few days

 

[jerrycmorrow]

in the check valve behind the screen is a duck bill that lets compression pressure in oil tank to push out oil to chain/bar. if the duck bill breaks / melts into a goo than the oil gets sucked into the crankcase causing the smoking issue. I have grinded just enough of the body of the check valve off to remove the screen and install a new check valve before, I than mixed up some JB weld and installed the screen back on the valve. worked so far.

Got pix or an illustration? Does the screen slide out? What holds the duck bill in place?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Got pix or an illustration? Does the screen slide out? What holds the duck bill in place?

Check the Poulan thread on SH for details.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Check the Poulan thread on SH for details.

Gimme a hint how to find it. Keywords?

 

[Acornhill]

Here it is

 

[ILikesEmGreen]

Acorn, that's one d*** nice 3700. I'd take'er just like she is! Got a stack of 8-10" logs out here that'd quiver at the site of that...hehe.

Gary, Those are the bar guards I was talking about in that PM the other day.

 

[Acornhill]

Here it is all cleaned up, notice the correct chain catcher is larger than non bow saw

 

[Acornhill]

It will not yeah upload

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Gimme a hint how to find it. Keywords?

Over where you're 'formerly known as jerrycmorrow" if that's a good enough hint. Otherwise, s a w h a w g z d o t c o m.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Gimme a hint how to find it. Keywords?

Same pics in your thread on Chainsaw Repair.

 

[jerry quinn]

http://nmi.craigslist.org/grd/4596510937.html

 

[hotshot]

On a S25DA auto oiler diaphragm and gasket, which goes on first?, as the 25, 25DA, & S25CV IPLs have it both ways...or does it matter? This is the first S25 I've worked on, so still learning.

Just spent an afternoon going completely through this little saw, and it about kicked my azz during pressure testing. New seals, gaskets, then a cylinder stud leaking at the bottom/backside of the case, but I still couldn't stop the gauge needle in its tracks. I never could locate the small leak.

Just a heads up on this gasket & oiler diaphragm Q for the S25 series. The IPLs are varied, with some views of the Poulan & Sears/Craftsman IPLs showing them with the diaphragm going on last, on top of the gasket.

YES!, it does make a difference in the position, the oiler diaphragm needs to go on the oiler body first, then the stiff gasket to hold it down in the little slot area/impulse port pocket that is cast into the 2 bolt cover/cap. Just like the fuel pump side of a carb.

If you reverse it, it will seep/fail pressure testing, as the diaphragm edge gets lifted up by the air pressure that can get between the diaphragm and the gasket below it.... almost like a one sided duckbill check valve. Instead of drilling two holes in the cap & channeling them together, they simply casted a slot. You could also super glue these together in that port area if you wanted the joint to be permanent.

This S25DA started running & idling funny, so I tore it back down & leak checked it for the 20th time, and I could hear the air leak in the back of the oiler body (vent). When I pulled the oiler top cover, the diaphragm was "puckered" up in that slot area, and I had put it together with the gasket first.