Thanks Bob and Mike. I will be getting a real chain on it. I have heard good things about these saws. I really like my other saw like this, so Im sure this one will fit right in!
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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WOW, that 3.3 is awesome. Not much time on it for sure. Good score.
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like the 330 to me. The bucking spike is upside down Joe.
Joe, what you have is the Sears version of the 3300 that I just got and its a nice one at that. Go back a few pages and look at the picture I posted of it.
Like Mike said, get rid of that 33 series chain and put some 20LP on it and watch it tear through some wood.
Guess who finally ended up with a late model 306SA today! Yep it would be me. Looks like this one might end up a resto job in cosmetics anyway, P/C look good on it.
I also just won a Poulan 203 on auction today as well. I have been on the lookout for some of these older models. I know where there is the 4.5 ci version as well and may try to pick it up sometime.
I also just won a Poulan 203 on auction today as well. I have been on the lookout for some of these older models. I know where there is the 4.5 ci version as well and may try to pick it up sometime.
Just a quick update on the 245A decals. He got back with me this evening. He's been super busy with his day job and trying to keep up with the decal orders. He asked for the dimensions the top decal needed to be and will have them out to me Wednesday. Patience is the word. He's a busy man.
I won a 306A today as well. Bow bar and all!!!
The bow setup will be going on my 245A.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I won a 306A today as well. Bow bar and all!!!
You guys are killing me. I'd love to pick up a 245 but ended up with a 3700 Bow saw. Hasn't arrived yet but am thinking of building a 4000 from parts I have and adding Bow to it. Great pick up guys.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I sure am glad to hear that Mark!
Is it everything you hoped it would be??
What all seems to be wrong with it?
Mike
partsman51
ArboristSite Member
Nice saw, but if I may, your little red one behind it looks just like my little 14" one from sears, do you have any pics of the insides, like the fuel tank area, I have not had mine apart that far yet, and looks like yours is partly dissasembled, and I am curious how it looks in that area.
Hey my friend don't worry about it, just get some tools and dig in on it! There easy to work on.
Go to the beg for manuals thread and ask for a Poulan 25DA IPL and service manual for it.
Pp475
Well its official I got parts coming to put the other PP 475 saw together. Don't know when I'll get to it but sooner or later.....
Well its official I got parts coming to put the other PP 475 saw together. Don't know when I'll get to it but sooner or later.....
Anyone need any hard to find 4000 air filters?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280280214653&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280280214653&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
Which is the same as the 330 except for the air cleaner cover and some chrome in the motor. Correct me if I'm wrong Mark.
thanks for the info guys. Mark, look forward to seeing your new aqquisitions posted up! I got a surprise on my 2.8 saw, that one did have a chrome bore, but it was an early model ('88) I havent pulled the muffler on the 3.3 yet but guess what Im doin now! I thought that spike was wrong, but my 2.8 doesnt have one and sears parts direct says it NLA.
Looks like this one is a chrome piston. No big deal. Id say this saw has 5 hours on it. It has no wear and 150+psi. But im so careless. Look what i forgot to put back in the muffler! That baffle and screen say a lot about this saw tho.
Mark, what page is your saw on?
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws597.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws597.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Mark, what page is your saw on?
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws597.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws597.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
If your supposed 2.8 has a chrome bore then it is probably a 3.0ci 3000 instead...
I know its hard to measure without taking it all apart, but the 2.8 would be a 42mm bore while the 3.0 would be a 44mm bore.
I guess its easier to repost the picture of the 3300 then find that page again.......
Yes your kinda wrong.... I still have not got to do all the comparisons that I wanted to but yes the covers are different and the cases are for sure different, jugs dont seem to interchange along with the air cleaner, carb, fuel line, chain brake etc.
But yes your kinda right there kinda the same but different.
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes your kinda wrong.... I still have not got to do all the comparisons that I wanted to but yes the covers are different and the cases are for sure different, jugs dont seem to interchange along with the air cleaner, carb, fuel line, chain brake etc.
But yes your kinda right there kinda the same but different.
Muddy
ArboristSite Member
Poulan 2500 saw from 1999
Hi, I have a 42cc (or thereabouts) made by Poualn in 1990.
I am going to replace the crank bearings, seals and put shims on the crank to eliminate the end play.
I am getting over 17,000 RPM out of this motor because of an expansion chamber a mate of mine made.
Am I in the right forum here? Or is there an engine builder's thread this post is better suited to?
My question(s):
1. Will the shims help or hinder the crank?
I would have thought this would be beneficial - no end play, and con rod will stay centred.
2. I am replacing the crank seals. My bearings are rubber sealed, and I think I will be able to leave/keep the shields on the seal side of the crank bearings. The races will be washed out (grease removed) , and the fuel/oil can still enter the bearings from the crank side. As the outer bearing face does not touch the engine seal, and the transfer ports directly above the bearing's cases do not pulse fuel / oil to the seal side of the bearing, will leaving the outer bearing seal installed help to increase my crankcase pressure?
3. I have a Mk IV inlet manifold made, and there are NO air leaks between carb and head. (I moved the carb away from the motor)
I have had to increase the size of the pulse port that operates the carb metering valve. I have also put a kit through the carb (Walbro WT 202) and the diaphragm lifts the metering needle at the slightest whiff of a crank pulse. At high RPM, the motor just fades away. I feel the carb is unable to deliver enough fuel at high demand condition. Ignition, and kill switch have all been eliminated, fuel is top notch, plug is new, etc.
Is there a better carb I might use? I was thinking of a carb from a 80cc saw, or something.
It's not much use plumbing a pressure line from the expansion chamber to the vent on the tank (pressurising the fuel system), as the valve flaps in the carb would just resist the pressure.
The motor starts every time, idles fine, responds to throttle "stabs" but when asked for the goods, fades away still.
Sorry for the long post, but there may be arguments for leaving bearings sealed/ or not. Is there a NO-NO I am comitting here?
Hi, I have a 42cc (or thereabouts) made by Poualn in 1990.
I am going to replace the crank bearings, seals and put shims on the crank to eliminate the end play.
I am getting over 17,000 RPM out of this motor because of an expansion chamber a mate of mine made.
Am I in the right forum here? Or is there an engine builder's thread this post is better suited to?
My question(s):
1. Will the shims help or hinder the crank?
I would have thought this would be beneficial - no end play, and con rod will stay centred.
2. I am replacing the crank seals. My bearings are rubber sealed, and I think I will be able to leave/keep the shields on the seal side of the crank bearings. The races will be washed out (grease removed) , and the fuel/oil can still enter the bearings from the crank side. As the outer bearing face does not touch the engine seal, and the transfer ports directly above the bearing's cases do not pulse fuel / oil to the seal side of the bearing, will leaving the outer bearing seal installed help to increase my crankcase pressure?
3. I have a Mk IV inlet manifold made, and there are NO air leaks between carb and head. (I moved the carb away from the motor)
I have had to increase the size of the pulse port that operates the carb metering valve. I have also put a kit through the carb (Walbro WT 202) and the diaphragm lifts the metering needle at the slightest whiff of a crank pulse. At high RPM, the motor just fades away. I feel the carb is unable to deliver enough fuel at high demand condition. Ignition, and kill switch have all been eliminated, fuel is top notch, plug is new, etc.
Is there a better carb I might use? I was thinking of a carb from a 80cc saw, or something.
It's not much use plumbing a pressure line from the expansion chamber to the vent on the tank (pressurising the fuel system), as the valve flaps in the carb would just resist the pressure.
The motor starts every time, idles fine, responds to throttle "stabs" but when asked for the goods, fades away still.
Sorry for the long post, but there may be arguments for leaving bearings sealed/ or not. Is there a NO-NO I am comitting here?
