Nik's Poulan Thread

[joe25DA]

25 question

First off that saw looks great Brad.
Now for the question. Im working on that 25 I posted. I didnt have spark. I tore it down, now its going back together. I hit the points with some emory cloth, set them put my fly wheel on and set my coil air gap. Put the tester on, no spark. BUT this saw has the old style slide switch. I am assmuming since I have 1 wire to the switch that there is a constant and the switch grounds off. SO I SHOULD have spark even with the switch off the saw?

 

[CGC4200]

possible bad condendser

Or a dirty ground.

 

[joe25DA]

Im thinkin the condenser too. Im pretty sure you can start these saws w/out a a switch. The switch is only used to stop the saw. Am I right?

 

[rms61moparman]

Yes you are!!!

As long as the wire that goes to the switch isn't touching a ground it should have spark and run.


Mike

 

[joe25DA]

Yes you are!!!

As long as the wire that goes to the switch isn't touching a ground it should have spark and run.


Mike

I have another points ign, I think Im gonna swap the whole assembly.

 

[CGC4200]

checking condenser

The best KISS way I know is to charge one from 12V charger, battery or
a 9V electronics battery, wait a about a minute, and check if it has stored
charge with a DC voltmeter, voltage will bleed off quick even good, spark plug voltage may ruin the condenser/capacitor.

 

[joe25DA]

The best KISS way I know is to charge one from 12V charger, battery or
a 9V electonics battery, wait a about a minute, and check if it has stored
charge with a DC voltmeter, voltage will bleed off quick even good, spark plug voltage may ruin the condenser/capacitor.

I might have to try that.

 

[redunshee]

First off that saw looks great Brad.
Now for the question. Im working on that 25 I posted. I didnt have spark. I tore it down, now its going back together. I hit the points with some emory cloth, set them put my fly wheel on and set my coil air gap. Put the tester on, no spark. BUT this saw has the old style slide switch. I am assmuming since I have 1 wire to the switch that there is a constant and the switch grounds off. SO I SHOULD have spark even with the switch off the saw?

Sounds logical to me JOe. Had a problem with one of my 3400's that wouldn't stop when I hit the switch off. Used a continuity tester with switch out of saw and it was fine. Come to find out it wasn't grounding to the saw. roughed up the opening and it worked fine. Long story short you should have spark unless your switch is always grounded i.e. always closed(I think).

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Sounds logical to me JOe. Had a problem with one of my 3400's that wouldn't stop when I hit the switch off. Used a continuity tester with switch out of saw and it was fine. Come to find out it wasn't grounding to the saw. roughed up the opening and it worked fine. Long story short you should have spark unless your switch is always grounded i.e. always closed(I think).

I don't know about all chainsaws but some small engines have the on/off switches on their modules configured as "ground to stop" and some are "ground to run". Just thought I'd add a little confusion to the mix. All the chainsaws I have checked are "ground to stop".

 

[scottr]

First off that saw looks great Brad.
Now for the question. Im working on that 25 I posted. I didnt have spark. I tore it down, now its going back together. I hit the points with some emory cloth, set them put my fly wheel on and set my coil air gap. Put the tester on, no spark. BUT this saw has the old style slide switch. I am assmuming since I have 1 wire to the switch that there is a constant and the switch grounds off. SO I SHOULD have spark even with the switch off the saw?

Joe, it's good to check the resistance across the points after sanding or filing. Just make sure that the resistance is less than 0.5 ohms.

 

[Modifiedmark]

The 203 lives!

Got to tinker with the newly aquired 203 today, and it didnt take much to make it run. Fuel lines and carb kit got it up and running. I put a original Poulan 17" harnosed bar and semi chisel chain on it, since the roller nose was lost in shipping.:censored:

Here is how not to run a fuel line in a 200 or 300 series Poulan. I have seen alot of them this way and always wonder why.

Here is the right way. Notice the nos felt on the fuel filter, I need to find a few more of them as I like the original setup the best. The filter seems the heaviest which always keeps it in the fuel at any position.

The carb is a Tillitoson HS58A instead of the 59A of the 306/245 and has a smaller venturi. The governor got disabled

It started in about 4 pulls and didnt take too much adjustment at all.

I need to change out the worn rim sprocket and find another screw for the lost one in the recoil cover.

But it runs!

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Got to tinker with the newly aquired 203 today, and it didnt take much to make it run. Fuel lines and carb kit got it up and running. I put a original Poulan 17" harnosed bar and semi chisel chain on it, since the roller nose was lost in shipping.:censored:

Here is how not to run a fuel line in a 200 or 300 series Poulan. I have seen alot of them this way and always wonder why.

Here is the right way. Notice the nos felt on the fuel filter, I need to find a few more of them as I like the original setup the best. The filter seems the heaviest which always keeps it in the fuel at any position.

The carb is a Tillitoson HS58A instead of the 59A of the 306/245 and has a smaller venturi. The governor got disabled

It started in about 4 pulls and didnt take too much adjustment at all.

I need to change out the worn rim sprocket and find another screw for the lost one in the recoil cover.

But it runs!

The saw looks great and is very rare for sure Mark. I can't believe that you don't have a screw for that cover.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Got to tinker with the newly aquired 203 today, and it didnt take much to make it run. Fuel lines and carb kit got it up and running. I put a original Poulan 17" harnosed bar and semi chisel chain on it, since the roller nose was lost in shipping.:censored:

Here is how not to run a fuel line in a 200 or 300 series Poulan. I have seen alot of them this way and always wonder why.

Here is the right way. Notice the nos felt on the fuel filter, I need to find a few more of them as I like the original setup the best. The filter seems the heaviest which always keeps it in the fuel at any position.

The carb is a Tillitoson HS58A instead of the 59A of the 306/245 and has a smaller venturi. The governor got disabled

It started in about 4 pulls and didnt take too much adjustment at all.

I need to change out the worn rim sprocket and find another screw for the lost one in the recoil cover.

But it runs!

Nice saw, Mark. I took your advice on the routing of fuel lines on mine. What are you going to do with the self-sharpener? Most I've seen have been removed.

 

[blsnelling]

What's the difference between these and the 306/245? They look identical.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

What's the difference between these and the 306/245? They look identical.

They pretty much are the same saw. With out the auto oiler and I think a earlier edition of the 306 Brad. All the parts will interchange.

 

[Modifiedmark]

They pretty much are the same saw. With out the auto oiler and I think a earlier edition of the 306 Brad. All the parts will interchange.

Yes pretty much the same just a little different also. Carbs are different as well as the clutch. The off switch is in the throttle lock.

Most were also auto oilers as this one is. I have not been under the flywheel on this one yet as it was makeing good spark, but I think there are differences in the ignitions as well.

 

[dave76]

Just woundering guys, I have about 5 poulan 2000s, was woundering if I can install a an S23 powerhead on one without any mods, I know a 2300 C/P would fit, anyway would the crank and rod need to be swapped too?????

 

[dave76]

Did some research for anyone who care's, the crank and rod assemblys for the 2000 share the same numbers with a Poulan Pro S23 Arbor Pro. So I'm getting it, did comp test cold on my saw and only saw 117 PSI, comprared that with my other 2000 that has no more then 2 hrs on it has 170 PSI.

A few years back when I was new to this, I searched for a cylinder because mine was scored only to find they don't make the 2000 cylinder anymore, so I got a new ring and did the best I could with the cylinder and piston. Saw runs OK, got a whistle when pulling on startup with throttle open which proves air is leaking by. So I'll look at it as I'm putting a big block in.lol

 

[Modifiedmark]

Did some research for anyone who care's, the crank and rod assemblys for the 2000 share the same numbers with a Poulan Pro S23 Arbor Pro. So I'm getting it, did comp test cold on my saw and only saw 117 PSI, comprared that with my other 2000 that has no more then 2 hrs on it has 170 PSI.

A few years back when I was new to this, I searched for a cylinder because mine was scored only to find they don't make the 2000 cylinder anymore, so I got a new ring and did the best I could with the cylinder and piston. Saw runs OK, got a whistle when pulling on startup with throttle open which proves air is leaking by. So I'll look at it as I'm putting a big block in.lol

Make sure you let us know how this works out. Just so I'm on the same page your putting a 2.3ci P/C from a S23 arbor pro saw on a Poulan 2000 right?

Should be smooth sailing.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Nice saw, Mark. I took your advice on the routing of fuel lines on mine. What are you going to do with the self-sharpener? Most I've seen have been removed.

I can remove it or I can leave it be, it dont really matter much.