Nice saw Mark
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
No I haven't checked the compression,I've been looking for a compression tester though,does it need to be running to check it. It will fire up with a little mix poured in carb,but that's it.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
No. Do a compression test with a cold saw. Pull recoil until the gauge stops rising, usually 5-6 pulls.
Thanks for the manuals Mark,they should help be out a lot.
Ok thanks, I'm going to call a few more people,I think I my wife's uncle may have one for chainsaws.
I can't find one so I'm goin to see if I can find one at TSC.
One of my 3400 was giving me fits today when restarting after I refilled or had the saw off more than a couple of minutes or so. No choke, choke, throttle lock - no luck. The saw didn't seem to flood in spite of pulling it many times. While running, the saw was very responsive and pulled well. Re-starts were first pull for short stops.
I had put in new kit, lines, duckbill and filter last fall. I also put a new metering plate assembly in recently. L was set to 1 3/16 and H at 1. If I pulled the plug, inverted the saw and pulled the saw over many times, I could get it to hit right away (most times) after. Boil off in carb? L still a bit lean? I tend to set the idle a fair bit below clutch engagement and this could (also) be a problem if starting without throttle lock. As for the throttle lock, it engages, but never produces enough throttle to turn a fast idle.
I had similar symptoms last fall before I split the case and tossed the base gasket.
Regardless, it was nice to get out and cut a truck load of rounds today.
I had put in new kit, lines, duckbill and filter last fall. I also put a new metering plate assembly in recently. L was set to 1 3/16 and H at 1. If I pulled the plug, inverted the saw and pulled the saw over many times, I could get it to hit right away (most times) after. Boil off in carb? L still a bit lean? I tend to set the idle a fair bit below clutch engagement and this could (also) be a problem if starting without throttle lock. As for the throttle lock, it engages, but never produces enough throttle to turn a fast idle.
I had similar symptoms last fall before I split the case and tossed the base gasket.
Regardless, it was nice to get out and cut a truck load of rounds today.
Cory,
Try leaning the idle mixture a bit and speed it up. All mine start and run best at 1-1/8 out.
I suspect it's more a low idle rpm that makes them hard to start.
As far as the throttle lock goes; check the wire throttle link and bend it forward to take almost all the play between the trigger and the throttle shaft on the carb.
I've had a couple where the free play negated the throttle increase. Make sure the throttle still closes with the idle speed screw backed out.
Be very careful you don't break the trigger if you elect to bend it with the linkage in the trigger.
I know exactly of what you speak! unfortunately, I don't have a brilliant answer. My most used saw, a 4000, will give me the same kind of problem occasionally. Except for the throttle lock issue. If it sits for some time after being used and good and warmed up. Or, after I run a tank of fuel though it, then stop to refuel. Almost like a vapor lock type situation.
I will go through a stretch of pulling, with choke on, choke off, and nothing, not even a pop. Then all of a sudden on a pull (usually) with it on full choke, she fires, like there was never a problem. It never seems to flood. More the other way, where it just ain't getting enough fuel, quick enough. Like it needs to be primed.
Once it does start again, its back to normal, runs great, if you shut it off, will start right back up. If it sits for several minutes, helps with the throttle lock.
Some day I might get it figured out.. LOL
That is another good excuse to always have several saws with me, whenever I'm cutting. Get one pinched, run out of gas, mechanical break or malfunction, (rare) or rock a chain or get into a wire fence, any number of stupid operator errors. Just grab another saw. I know i didn't offer any fixes or solutions. At least Tim is offering some help. Just wanted you to know, your not the Lone Ranger out there in the woods.
Gregg,
Thanks Tim and Gregg.
I had tried setting the linkage forward a bit tighter with a small tye wrap at the throttle but bending is sounding like a better option. It sure seems like a bit of vapour lock/low idle issue with your insight and some further reading. I've got a few day's off of work so I will tinker around a bit with it.
I might pull the HDB off of a Timberbear if need be and see if it can be swapped.
I've got a line on a dozen massive orchard cherry trees here an owner wants gone. It will be a good opportunity to try out the 4000 I picked up last Fall.
I had tried setting the linkage forward a bit tighter with a small tye wrap at the throttle but bending is sounding like a better option. It sure seems like a bit of vapour lock/low idle issue with your insight and some further reading. I've got a few day's off of work so I will tinker around a bit with it.
I might pull the HDB off of a Timberbear if need be and see if it can be swapped.
I've got a line on a dozen massive orchard cherry trees here an owner wants gone. It will be a good opportunity to try out the 4000 I picked up last Fall.
I may just try a carb swap also this spring, when I get to cutting again. I got plenty of other saws I could try one off of. Even have a Zama C3A? I think it is, on my PP375. Be a direct swap. See if it makes any difference.
Question, if I run my 2800 for awhile and shut it off it sounds like fuel gurgling and sizzling from the carb. Could that be a sound for a carb build. Had the carb apart when I had the case split to reseal the halves and install new mounts.
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile, Steve
Cory,
Interesting about the carb on the Timberbear. The model on the 3400 - 4000 HDB's is an HDB-8. Please let us know which model the HDB is on the Timberbear.
I would like to find out if that is one of the larger venturi HDB's which are rather rare and if the throttle rod end is the same as the Poulan one.
Redunshee was looking for a larger carb for his ported 4000 and if that's a larger venturi model then he could look for a Timberbear carb.
Thanks
Tim
Tim do you recall the carb BB used on that ported build on a different site? Will go see if I can find the thread.
Yep it says bigger carb used. I bumped up thread to see if OP said which one. Looks freaking awesome.
I bumped up thread to see if OP said which one. Looks freaking awesome.
ImNotASwede
ImNotaSwede
I just picked up a NOS 137 for that just in case day. I still have not had a 164 act up on me like others have, Thank goodness. I even have other used good 164's for back ups too.
ImNotASwede
ImNotaSwede
If you wanna sell it let me know. It was/is driving me nuts. I've tried a new 164 with similar results. I went through the saw and tore it all down chasing vacuum leaks because of the damn carb[emoji19]
blk05crew
I like 'em green
My 3400 does this as well. Let it warm up for a while a week ago or so and then it sat until last night when I tried to start it and it did the same thing. Interesting that it sounds like a common issue on the 3400's.
Yep it says bigger carb used.
I'm pretty sure if I recall correctly that he used an HS carb. The problem with those is the mounting bolts holes are angled and it would put the mixture needles at a bad angle and on the wrong side of the saw. The impulse hole is also in a really bad spot for use with the standard 3400 - 4000 carb adapter so an impulse port had to be fitted to the cylinder. Nothing is insurmountable there but a fair bit of fabrication (a new carb adapter) would have to be made to get the carb level.
For a cookie saw it would be fine as is.
I'm wondering if a larger Zama C3 variant like one off a Husky 365 might work but I'm not sure if the venturi is larger.
The HDB 8-1 carb used on the 3400- 4000 saws has a 16.61 mm venturi and a few of them like the HDB 1,2,4 &5 have a 19.01 mm venturi which would make the swap easy with maybe just a new throttle and choke link to fit those models.
Used ones don't seem to be readily available.
