Hmm, I got to find me a Wizard. I got parts to put a micro version of a Wizard together though.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Hmm, I got to find me a Wizard. I got parts to put a micro version of a Wizard together though.
Me and woodchuck traded. My Dayton for his Wizard. That saw is a 306A clone and in awesome shape. I gotta get some pics up of it.
It is nice I seen it in person.
Could you paint that Dayton purple and yellow and put some Wild Thing decals on it? By the way, nice find Mark!And found this instead.
It starts and runs but the vent line must be bad as it pours gas out when you turn it over.
Might go through the carb as well.
Not a bad find but there wasn't a Wild Thing to be found. I dont want to here em complain if I whip them in the WT races with a 2500...
I have a micro Wizard but it's in terrible shape...somebody stored it on a damp floor or something, it's corroded bad.
SPIKE5400
ArboristSite Member
I found a S25CVA like new, shines like a new dime, I'm guessing it was used for about an hour? Has all the paper work and plastic case. What’s this thing worth?
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
This one was worth $1.75 to the seller on e-Bay. I guess I could go as high as $5.00 on yours....
This one was worth $1.75 to the seller on e-Bay. I guess I could go as high as $5.00 on yours....
Maybe the seller should consider using a reserve next time..
Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
It was a $.99 cent auction with no reserve. Placed my $1.00 bid and walked away and got notice 3 days later I had been outbid. Decided to snipe it, turns out the other guy only went $1.50. The seller wouldn't ship, so that severely limited his market.
Turns out he was a 13 year old kid. The folks here busted my chops for taking the saw from him. However, I had no way of knowing as the e-Bay account had been active since 1998 and had 100% feedback with 500+ transactions. Might have been a lesson felt in his wallet...
this was mine mark
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws325.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws325.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I remember that one now Joe. Nice one and at least it went to a good home, thats for sure.
I just come in from going through the fuel system on this one. It runs like a top now but I have not seen such a dirty carb in some time and the fuel tank was full of mud.
It did start before but I dont know how it did. It run like crap for sure but run just long enough to point out to the seller that the oiler was not working and that got me to haggle over the price with him and finally got him down some.
I found the oiler was working just fine, but someone had put the outer bar plate on the inside and of course it wont oil that way. LOL
I just come in from going through the fuel system on this one. It runs like a top now but I have not seen such a dirty carb in some time and the fuel tank was full of mud.
It did start before but I dont know how it did. It run like crap for sure but run just long enough to point out to the seller that the oiler was not working and that got me to haggle over the price with him and finally got him down some.
I found the oiler was working just fine, but someone had put the outer bar plate on the inside and of course it wont oil that way. LOL
SPIKE5400
ArboristSite Member
I just found out it is a Wright 122a making it a Poulan 25A (34cc) not a S25CVA (38cc) He wants $100 for it,
Richard
Richard
SPIKE5400
ArboristSite Member
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/1863156044.html
I have a 197? Something Wright 122 in LIKE NEW condition this saw has been used two or three times in its life.. The paint is still shiny and I have the original hard case with it also have the original owners manual with the parts list too.. This saw is complete and I stress LIKE NEW condition…. (see pics) pulls with good compression. have not started did not want to tear it up doing something wrong ……… $100 OBO [email protected]
Nice saw but I'm not so sure I would go that much on it. He dont even know if it runs....
Then again, its nice..
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Poulan 245 recoil rope
Rope pulled out of recoil assembly. If I tie a knot inside pulley it creates a hump when winding rope as the pulley is so narrow. I tried it w/o a knot and it pulled out, as I suspected. How have you guys attached starter rope?
Bob
Rope pulled out of recoil assembly. If I tie a knot inside pulley it creates a hump when winding rope as the pulley is so narrow. I tried it w/o a knot and it pulled out, as I suspected. How have you guys attached starter rope?
Bob
Bob, this is hard to explain, so I'm going to attach a page from the IPL to help you visualize what I mean. According to the service manual it says to replace the whole rope with a new Poulan assy.
I didn't know that when I worked at the Poulan dealer when they were almost new.
We always used a regular rope and a nail. Look at the IPL and see the pin postioned by the starter end of the rope. That pin was pushed through the end of the rope and is what keeps the rope from pulling through the loop inside the starter pulley.
What I use for a pin is a #6 finishing nail. At least thats what size I think I use, I would have to go look at the box of nails to be sure.
You have to make sure the end of the rope is cleanly cut and melted together at the same time. I use a modified soldering iron to cut starter ropes with but I'm sure you could heat a razor blade or something as well to cut it with.
After the rope is cut, you need to drive the nail through the end of the rope about 3/16" from the end. After that I take a pair of dykes and cut the sharp end of the nail off. The cut nail should protrude under the bottom about as far as the top of the nail sticks out the other side.
You then thread the handle end of the rope through the pulley and guide it through till the nail bottoms on the loop. Try to keep the head of the nail up and the cut end down. Pull on the rope as hard as you can to make sure it dont pull through the loop. It may take you a few trial an errors to make sure you get the nail the right length and such. There easy once you have done a couple.
Make sure and pay attention to the direction that the rope is fed through the loop in the pulley.
Another trick is to remove the recoil housing completly (3 screws) and then insert the pulley into it while you align the end of the spring on the pulley from behind. You can then set the whole thing back on in one piece.
These are not really hard if you know what your doing, and as many members here have these 306/245's I should do a write up on them when I have time.
I have a 306SA project in the wings, maybe I'll do one then.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bob, this is hard to explain, so I'm going to attach a page from the IPL to help you visualize what I mean. According to the service manual it says to replace the whole rope with a new Poulan assy.
I didn't know that when I worked at the Poulan dealer when they were almost new.
Look at the IPL and see the pin postioned by the starter end of the rope. That pin was pushed through the end of the rope and is what keeps the rope from pulling through the loop inside the starter pulley.
What I use for a pin is a #6 finishing nail. At least thats what size I think I use, I would have to go look at the box of nails to be sure.
You have to make sure the end of the rope is cleanly cut and melted together at the same time. I use a modified soldering iron to cut starter ropes with but I'm sure you could heat a razor blade or something as well to cut it with.
After the rope is cut, you need to drive the nail through the end of the rope about 3/16" from the end. After that I take a pair of dykes and cut the sharp end of the nail off. The cut nail should protrude under the bottom about as far as the top of the nail sticks out the other side.
You then thread the handle end of the rope through the pulley and guide it through till the nail bottoms on the loop. Try to keep the head of the nail up and the cut end down. Pull on the rope as hard as you can to make sure it dont pull through the loop. It may take you a few trial an errors to make sure you get the nail the right length and such. There easy once you have done a couple.
Make sure and pay attention to the direction that the rope is fed through the loop in the pulley.
Another trick is to remove the recoil housing completly (3 screws) and then insert the pulley into it while you align the end of the spring on the pulley from behind. You can then set the whole thing back on in one piece.
These are not really hard if you know what your doing, and as many members here have these 306/245's I should do a write up on them when I have time.
I have a 306SA project in the wings, maybe I'll do one then.
Thanks. I'll follow your instructions and see what happens.
It always gives me a sunken feeling when I pull the rope of my saw and it doesn't recoil back!
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I hear ya. Most of the time its just a matter of tensioning spring by giving it a couple turns. When rope pulls completely off assembly more work is naturally required. If its a 245 or 306 its a real pain.
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