SPIKE5400
ArboristSite Member
I just looked at a brand new Poulan 4400 still on the shelf, never had gas or oil in it:rockn: the guy want's $560.00:bang:
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
Two new bow saws
I found this 3400 on Craigslist in Georgia and it came in the mail today. The ad said the saw was worn out and that his wife had bought him a new one. I tried to get them to sell the bow attachment separately, but they would not, so I bought the saw too. Got it home, gased and oiled it up, put the bow and a chain off my 405 on it and it fired and ran good. Seems to have good compression, I think I will run it as it is.
Bought this 405 bow saw yesterday, it is a bit rougher than I thought on inspection yesterday. I am going to try and get it going and then make a decision on its fate. Recoil spring is broken, but based on the way I can spin it by hand I think it is totally worn out.
Here they both are together.
I found this 3400 on Craigslist in Georgia and it came in the mail today. The ad said the saw was worn out and that his wife had bought him a new one. I tried to get them to sell the bow attachment separately, but they would not, so I bought the saw too. Got it home, gased and oiled it up, put the bow and a chain off my 405 on it and it fired and ran good. Seems to have good compression, I think I will run it as it is.
Bought this 405 bow saw yesterday, it is a bit rougher than I thought on inspection yesterday. I am going to try and get it going and then make a decision on its fate. Recoil spring is broken, but based on the way I can spin it by hand I think it is totally worn out.
Here they both are together.
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redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I found this 3400 on Craigslist in Georgia and it came in the mail today. The ad said the saw was worn out and that his wife had bought him a new one. I tried to get them to sell the bow attachment separately, but they would not, so I bought the saw too. Got it home, gased and oiled it up, put the bow and a chain off my 405 on it and it fired and ran good. Seems to have good compression, I think I will run it as it is.
Bought this 405 bow saw yesterday, it is a bit rougher than I thought on inspection yesterday. I am going to try and get it going and then make a decision on its gate. Recoil spring is broken, but based on the way I can spin it by hand I think it is totally worn out.
Here they both are together.
Good looking saws. I picked up a 3700 Bow Saw but it only had the upper guard. I see you have both. Congrats.
Bob
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Naw, not really.
Followed your instructions and it came out fine, Mark. Removed entire recoil spring assembly as you suggested and it made attaching the pulley much easier. Saw started right up and ran for 10 seconds, then revved up and stopped. Almost like it was out of fuel, which it wasn't. Suspect its the carb. Looking at carb I see you need small hands and a small wrench to remove the recoil side nut off the carb. Thanks again.
Bob
Bob, I took a craftsman 5/16" ignition wrench and ground the box end down on it and it made life alot easier to get that bolt out.
I dont know the details on the saw your working on but make sure and check that fuel line in the tank, there known for going bad and falling off.
You know how we like pictures dont you?
I also got the tubing finished up last night for some mufflers, so I'm getting closer on them.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
You hit the nail on the head! The fuel line broke off at the nipple. Hard to get to it even with hemostats. Do you think it easier to pull off fuel tank cover?
If I recall I may have to make a new gasket, if I do?
Bob
Yes Bob, Its as easy as eatin a piece of pie...with the cover off.
But you will probably need a new gasket. All most got mine off in one piece, but it leaked before. I got a new one from ordertree. Suprised me they were available. Gregg,
Nice Bow saw finds Guido Salvage
You guys comming up with all these bow saws, is making me get the itch for one..LOL
Gregg,
You guys comming up with all these bow saws, is making me get the itch for one..LOL
Gregg,
If you can change that line without pulling the cover, your a better man than I am.
If you can get the cover off without tearing that gasket you can seal it back up with some moto seal on that gasket. I done one just a while back and it worked fine that way.
Like Greg said you can still get a new gasket for now if you have to.
I even got by using a small amount of Permatex #2 on mine. I gave it several days to dry before putting fuel in it. No leaks yet.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Would never claim that Mark! Thanks to you and Gregg for the help. Soon as I get it together I'll post pictures. Saw is a little scruffy and likely will get a paint job in the future.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes Bob, Its as easy as eatin a piece of pie...with the cover off.
Gregg,
Gregg, couldn't find anything on any of my sites for the 245A. I use Ordertree but not sure its the same as yours. I did see parts for the 306A and the gasket part # is 530019005. Are they the same? If not what is your source? Thanks
Bob
Kilmathian
ArboristSite Lurker
NEW OLD 4200 Countervibe 'Ebay'
I introduced myself earlier a few pages back from Australia with the 4200 Countervibe. Managed to pick this up on Ebay today would like to hear thoughts on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...698907&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1154
It will do to compliment my old saw, which I now have designs to modify once I get the 'New' old girl back from the States.
There seems to be another put up by another seller the link is as follows:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Poulan-CounterV...ps=63&clkid=6710544387581738911#ht_500wt_1154
There is also a seized 5400 on the Canadian Ebay I am interested in getting for parts, but also would not mind trying my hand at casting the aluminium cylinder and piston, thoughts on that would be appreciated as well. I am aware that i would have to get the bore lined in hard chrome after it had been machined, though if it meant I could increase the displacement of the saws to 85cc a worthwhile investment.
Justin
I introduced myself earlier a few pages back from Australia with the 4200 Countervibe. Managed to pick this up on Ebay today would like to hear thoughts on it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...698907&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1154
It will do to compliment my old saw, which I now have designs to modify once I get the 'New' old girl back from the States.
There seems to be another put up by another seller the link is as follows:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Poulan-CounterV...ps=63&clkid=6710544387581738911#ht_500wt_1154
There is also a seized 5400 on the Canadian Ebay I am interested in getting for parts, but also would not mind trying my hand at casting the aluminium cylinder and piston, thoughts on that would be appreciated as well. I am aware that i would have to get the bore lined in hard chrome after it had been machined, though if it meant I could increase the displacement of the saws to 85cc a worthwhile investment.
Justin
Bob those gaskets are the same.
So thats where that ole girl is going! Nice saw your getting.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Was watching those saws and am sure Procarbines will go for about the same. Too rich for my blood esp. since I've got a 5200.
Kilmathian
ArboristSite Lurker
Casting Poulan Parts
Guys
I know I am new here, going to put this out here I am interested in any 5200, 5400, 8500 cylinder and piston parts in any condition besides catastrophic exploded condition.
Reason being is that I am interested in the development of casting processes to reproduce these parts. The parts concerned are made from aluminum, the only hiccup which can be worked with is that the bore of the cylinder is hard chromed to protect from wear from the iron rings. I am also interested in any suggestions and information of anyone who has thought about it or attempted it. I am tossing up between sand casting or die casting at the moment the latter needing a significantly larger investment - time and money.
Justin
Guys
I know I am new here, going to put this out here I am interested in any 5200, 5400, 8500 cylinder and piston parts in any condition besides catastrophic exploded condition.
Reason being is that I am interested in the development of casting processes to reproduce these parts. The parts concerned are made from aluminum, the only hiccup which can be worked with is that the bore of the cylinder is hard chromed to protect from wear from the iron rings. I am also interested in any suggestions and information of anyone who has thought about it or attempted it. I am tossing up between sand casting or die casting at the moment the latter needing a significantly larger investment - time and money.
Justin
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Kilmathian
ArboristSite Lurker
Curiosity Poulan 7700
Just out of curiosity what is the displacement on a Poulan 7700?
Justin
Just out of curiosity what is the displacement on a Poulan 7700?
Justin
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
Justin i will keep my eyes peeled out for those items you seek currently i do not have any on them but if some come thru i will be letting you know
and welcome to the site
calvin
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bob, this is hard to explain, so I'm going to attach a page from the IPL to help you visualize what I mean. According to the service manual it says to replace the whole rope with a new Poulan assy.
I didn't know that when I worked at the Poulan dealer when they were almost new.We always used a regular rope and a nail.
Look at the IPL and see the pin postioned by the starter end of the rope. That pin was pushed through the end of the rope and is what keeps the rope from pulling through the loop inside the starter pulley.
What I use for a pin is a #6 finishing nail. At least thats what size I think I use, I would have to go look at the box of nails to be sure.
You have to make sure the end of the rope is cleanly cut and melted together at the same time. I use a modified soldering iron to cut starter ropes with but I'm sure you could heat a razor blade or something as well to cut it with.
After the rope is cut, you need to drive the nail through the end of the rope about 3/16" from the end. After that I take a pair of dykes and cut the sharp end of the nail off. The cut nail should protrude under the bottom about as far as the top of the nail sticks out the other side.
You then thread the handle end of the rope through the pulley and guide it through till the nail bottoms on the loop. Try to keep the head of the nail up and the cut end down. Pull on the rope as hard as you can to make sure it dont pull through the loop. It may take you a few trial an errors to make sure you get the nail the right length and such. There easy once you have done a couple.
Make sure and pay attention to the direction that the rope is fed through the loop in the pulley.
Another trick is to remove the recoil housing completly (3 screws) and then insert the pulley into it while you align the end of the spring on the pulley from behind. You can then set the whole thing back on in one piece.
These are not really hard if you know what your doing, and as many members here have these 306/245's I should do a write up on them when I have time.
I have a 306SA project in the wings, maybe I'll do one then.
Mark if you write a book and publish it i will promote the book for you
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