Nik's Poulan Thread

[rinkrat311]

anyone know if the chain oiler pump on the 4218 model is adjustable? i would like to fatten up the amount of oil the chain is seeing while cutting. personal preference really, i think stock is OK but who wants just OK???

Thanks

 

[lawnmowertech37]

nothing... checked there

What we looking for ? never mind found the post bar stud part # 1684 will check my parts and see if i can locate one for you

 

[scottr]

anyone know if the chain oiler pump on the 4218 model is adjustable? i would like to fatten up the amount of oil the chain is seeing while cutting. personal preference really, i think stock is OK but who wants just OK???

Thanks

You could look at the bottom of the saw for a oiler adjustment screw or download a owners manual and read it.

 

[rinkrat311]

You could look at the bottom of the saw for a oiler adjustment screw or download a owners manual and read it.

owner's manual says nothing about adjusting the chain oiler that i can find. not sure what the adjusting screw would look like if i could see it.... i might try looking up the IPL and see if i can see anything from that...

 

[scottr]

owner's manual says nothing about adjusting the chain oiler that i can find. not sure what the adjusting screw would look like if i could see it.... i might try looking up the IPL and see if i can see anything from that...

Usually the oiler adjust screws are in a recessed area below the oiler. I don't think that the 4218's had a adjustable oiler. If I remember correctly they used the same oiler as the PP295 and it was not adjustable. So are you going to stick with the 18" bar and chain ?

 

[rinkrat311]

Usually the oiler adjust screws are in a recessed area below the oiler. I don't think that the 4218's had a adjustable oiler. If I remember correctly they used the same oiler as the PP295 and it was not adjustable. So are you going to stick with the 18" bar and chain ?

for now i'm sticking with the 18" bar and chain, i have a nice loop of woodlandpro 30lp on there that cuts amazing over that stock saftey chain. i would like to get rid of the whimpy stock bar but i'm still looking. may modify a Husky or other bar to work if it comes to it.... have to ease up on the project saw right now, trying to pay for other bills....

 

[Denman123a]

Rebuilding a Poulan 4218 AVX

Got a piston kit and cylinder (thanks to whoever posted the link to jackssmallengines), but I parted it so long ago I don't remember all the details. Three immediate issues are: 1) the piston has four indents on one side; do they face the carb or exh?, 2) the cylinder has two tight-fitting sliders, one black and one silver, different p/n stamped on, both fit both cutouts on the sides of the cylinder; is there a right and wrong way for them to be located?, and 3) the old cylinder faced a thread gasket in a groove along where it meets the case; will RTV do in the temperatures? I'll keep a camera handy when I get to assembling this saw for my own direction and, later if it's successful to be a reference for other "new-Poulan" tinkerers. And while I'm at it another shot at the two "Poulan Dealers" in the Ottawa/Gatineau area who, when they saw my Poulan both threw their hands in the air and said "We don't service those" and didn't even offer to order parts. I wouldn't now buy a cotter pin from either one of'em! :chainsawguy:

 

[SawGarage]

What we looking for ? never mind found the post bar stud part # 1684 will check my parts and see if i can locate one for you

Calvin,

that would be cool...thanks!


J

 

[moparman]

This is a stratified air scavenged engine (airhead engine). The 4 cavities on piston go towards the intake - the lower 2 cavities are the air channels. The gray plastic insert goes on the right side (drive side) - it is important to be assembled on correct side as they help control the timing and port openings. It would be better to purchase the correct rubber o-ring gasket to go in groove, but hi-temp silicon sealant would work.

 

[Denman123a]

This is a stratified air scavenged engine (airhead engine). The 4 cavities on piston go towards the intake - the lower 2 cavities are the air channels. The gray plastic insert goes on the right side (drive side) - it is important to be assembled on correct side as they help control the timing and port openings. It would be better to purchase the correct rubber o-ring gasket to go in groove, but hi-temp silicon sealant would work.

Many thx moparman, .... the seal between the cyl and case is an irregular groove so the hi-temp silicone was the only way I knew of that would stay put while I fumble with the getting the piston up into the cyl with the ring intact. The ring groove has a pin making the ring orientation obvious.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Please don't throw me a left handed compliment about knowing more about saw parts but then insinuate that since I'm not a engineer or something I know nothing at all about manufacturing.

Not a left handed compliment at all. I am a chain saw newbie for all practical purposes. You are not.

From what I have read you have years of experience rebuilding chain saws. I think it is a fair and accurate statement to say you know a lot more about chainsaws and their parts than I do.

I could say the same thing about 90% of the people who post here, just stating the facts.

I have no way of knowing if you are or ever have been an engineer or if you have ever worked in a foundry, pattern shop or prototyping shop. Therefore I have no preconceived opinions about your manufacturing knowledge. None at all. I didn't mean to express or imply any.

I don't know much about manufacturing processes myself, and what I do know is rather outdated because it predates the introduction of computer driven machines.
My best friend and most of his family are pattern makers. Those guys can build anything they put their minds to.

"The OP mentinoned nothing of the equipment that he has, and if he had it I would think he would have mentioned it. "

He has mentioned in previous posts that he is capable of creating molds to cast duplicate obsolete parts. I don't know what methods he has available, but he has stated he has the capacity to do that.

"I still stand by my statement."

O.K. I agree it probably can't be done, unless somebody decides to do it.

If John Britton can manufacture an entire motorcycle at his home in New Zealand that not only functions but performs at world class levels of competition against Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha and Harley Davidson, then anything is possible.

The Britten V1000 was built in John Britten’s backyard, using only basic tools, very limited resources, the help of a few committed enthusiasts, and JB’s own vast talent. That the bike looked as good as it did, and even ran at all, was amazing. That it beat the best racing bikes from Italy and Japan is a feat, an accomplishment, and a miracle that’s beyond comprehension, beyond belief.
http://www.fasterandfaster.net/2008/01/britten-v1000-greatest-motorcycle-ever.html

If a person like this decided to build Pistons and Cylinders in his dining room he would probably do it.

That man would undoubtedly have to be unmarried!

 

[redunshee]

:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
I don't know but you are probably correct. Unfortunately John died of cancer at a very early age.

When I put the lower end of my Yamaha snowmobile engine in the oven in the kitchen to dry it out after it went through the ice, I had a lot of explaining to do....

the person who thought the oven was her domain was not happy.

Bearings in the freezer are O.K. as long as they are wrapped in paper.....:hmm3grin2orange:

Geez, you've got big ones! Snowmobile engine in the oven!!!!!!!

 

[Guido Salvage]

Geez, you've got big ones! Snowmobile engine in the oven!!!!!!!

Back when I was in college, I worked in maintenance during the summers for UVA. They had a company doing some roof repairs and one of the workers thought it would be a good idea to heat up a 5 gallon bucket of tar in the oven. The end result was a fire that burned several apartments.

To keep things on topic, I owned a Poulan at the time.

 

[SawGarage]

Geez, you've got big ones! Snowmobile engine in the oven!!!!!!!

LOL...

how about cleaning multiple dirty (Poulan, etc) air filters in the plastic containers?? LOL..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

LOL...

how about cleaning multiple dirty (Poulan, etc) air filters in the plastic containers?? LOL..

Not the Tupperware!!!

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Calvin,

that would be cool...thanks!


J

i actually found a stud bolt kit for this part # it comes with the instructions on how to install the stud etc.

 

[SawGarage]

Not the Tupperware!!!

:jawdrop: why not?? j/k... we actually don't have any here. Probably some packed somewhere. the stuff my parents had was FOREVER old...

just the rubbermaid, etc...

it comes clean!!

i actually found a stud bolt kit for this part # it comes with the instructions on how to install the stud etc.

kit? instructions? isn't it just threaded?

I think I'll need and insert/helicoil... ugh.

J

 

[briantutt]

:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
I don't know but you are probably correct. Unfortunately John died of cancer at a very early age.

When I put the lower end of my Yamaha snowmobile engine in the oven in the kitchen to dry it out after it went through the ice, I had a lot of explaining to do....

the person who thought the oven was her domain was not happy.

Bearings in the freezer are O.K. as long as they are wrapped in paper.....:hmm3grin2orange:

On that note, don't strip paint off your Poulan and put it in the dishwasher to finish it off...the person who thinks the dishwasher is her domain will not be happy because apparently the seals in the tub are also made from paint...

 

[rms61moparman]

:jawdrop: why not?? j/k... we actually don't have any here. Probably some packed somewhere. the stuff my parents had was FOREVER old...

just the rubbermaid, etc...

it comes clean!!



kit? instructions? isn't it just threaded?

I think I'll need and insert/helicoil... ugh.

J

No you won't.
The kit Calvin is talking about is what you need.
If I remember correctly the kit comes through the oil tank and installs just like the press in lug bolts on a car axle.

The new stud will have a flat spot on the end with a hole in it.
You remove the old stud and run a wire through the old lug hole and out the oil filler hole.
Thread the wire through the hole in the new stud and pull it through the reservoir and start it out the stud hole.
Run a bar nut down and tighten till the new stud seats.
I think you are supposed to break the little flat end off but I don't believe anyone does.

It is about as simple as working on a chainsaw gets.


Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

No you won't.
The kit Calvin is talking about is what you need.
If I remember correctly the kit comes through the oil tank and installs just like the press in lug bolts on a car axle.

The new stud will have a flat spot on the end with a hole in it.
You remove the old stud and run a wire through the old lug hole and out the oil filler hole.
Thread the wire through the hole in the new stud and pull it through the reservoir and start it out the stud hole.
Run a bar nut down and tighten till the new stud seats.
I think you are supposed to break the little flat end off but I don't believe anyone does.

It is about as simple as working on a chainsaw gets.


Mike

I don't remember what saw he's working on but alot of the replacement studs were like that for sure.

Simple!