blk05crew
I like 'em green
Yeah Mark and Bob informed me of the K041 mount and .325" pitch. The bar Mark actually sent me and he gave me the correct specs on the chain to order. I'd be lost without all you fellas!
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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Yeah Mark and Bob informed me of the K041 mount and .325" pitch. The bar Mark actually sent me and he gave me the correct specs on the chain to order. I'd be lost without all you fellas!
You're really going to like that 3000 Nate. It is a fast and responsive saw in the 12" and under we cut in these parts. Bob and Mark set you up well with the looks and condition of that one.
blk05crew
I like 'em green
Thanks I've heard great things about these saws. It is a really clean one and Bob gave me a good deal on it and Mark gave me the bar for cost of shipping, very generous from both guys! Cut mostly pine and red fir so it should do really well I imagine.
If you have a small to medium table saw, consider adapting a 7" abrasive cut off or disc grinder wheel to dress the bar rails.
Just about every turd thru my garage gets the treatment. Saves a bundle on buying guide bars.
Just about every turd thru my garage gets the treatment. Saves a bundle on buying guide bars.
Well, yessss and kindaa no on that. Kinda nit picking but they specked out the D007 mount for the Pioneer based saws. Yes they will interchange and bolt up but some of the Doo7 bars used different drive link counts then the D096 bars called for on the Poulan based saws you listed.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
The man with the knowledge. I'm going to call you the "Poulan Whisperer".
Today Mark is also the Solo and Partner whisperer.
I use a flat pry bar after letting the kroil soak. Slide pry bar under the flywheel being very careful not to break anything. Put nut on end of shaft to where the top of nut is flush with shaft end. Taking a 2-3 # hammer strike the end of the shaft while prying up with the flat pry bar. Put a piece of thin plywood or shims under the heel of the bar to keep from wrecking the cylinder.
I'm sure others will disagree but that's how I do it. May need to get a small, flat pry bar if space is an issue
I always run the nut up and down on the crank afterward to "clean" the threads. May want to use a thicker nut that engages more threads. Less chance of deforming the threads if pressure is distributed over more threads
Just sayin
I'm sure others will disagree but that's how I do it. May need to get a small, flat pry bar if space is an issue
I always run the nut up and down on the crank afterward to "clean" the threads. May want to use a thicker nut that engages more threads. Less chance of deforming the threads if pressure is distributed over more threads
Just sayin
