Nik's Poulan Thread

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EXACTLY what I was experiencing... in FACT, i gave up that night...I know Joe would be mad (or maybe happy) if I pushed it off the bench and told him to take the red headed-step child away...lol.


ORIGINAL BANANA BAR too...
rest of the saw is clean:

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Be happy to.
 
On my Dayton I just figured it would need the whole fuel system rebuilt so I put new fuel lines in, cleaned and rebuilt the carb and fired it up and didn't seem to even need adjusting carb after initial setting. Mine runs smooth and I can't see any problems with it. I got lucky..
Do you have the high speed screw adjusted correctly..at high speed the carb uses the low+high screws so you might try tweaking the H a little.

Well the carb is the least of my problems at this point. Pulled muffler and saw that piston is scored from the crown down about half way. Ring is also slightly scored. When I feel up to it I'm going to have to completely tear saw apart to get at cylinder. At least it looks like that. Then the issue becomes one of finding replacements.
 
model 31

does anyone have a spare gas cap for one of the sand cast poulans ? picked up a model 31 at the flea market that was in original shape except for the paper napkin shoved in the tank.ugh
 
Well the carb is the least of my problems at this point. Pulled muffler and saw that piston is scored from the crown down about half way. Ring is also slightly scored. When I feel up to it I'm going to have to completely tear saw apart to get at cylinder. At least it looks like that. Then the issue becomes one of finding replacements.

Sorry to hear that...I have a saw like that, an XL which wouldn't quite run right, I looked into exhaust port and saw about what you described. I think there should be parts still available for your saw, just keep an eye on ebay for a parts saw. If its just the piston and cylinder looks ok I'm sure there are pistons floating around out there. I'll let you know if I see anything.
 
Sorry to hear that...I have a saw like that, an XL which wouldn't quite run right, I looked into exhaust port and saw about what you described. I think there should be parts still available for your saw, just keep an eye on ebay for a parts saw. If its just the piston and cylinder looks ok I'm sure there are pistons floating around out there. I'll let you know if I see anything.

Thanks. I'll keep and eye out
 
A shame

Sold a nice, low hour 2.3 micro to a buddy. Long story short, lost his house, wife left him (no lie) so he sold his power equipment. I asked him about the 2.3 and he said sure give me $20 for it. No problems I sold it to him for $60. Got it home tried starting it, comp felt verrrry low. Heres what I found. He swears he didnt strait gas it but I call BS on that. The worst P/C Ive ever seen. But Ill say this. I came across an 024 that quit with A LOT less scoring than this. I had a spare 2.3 short block so I wrapped the saw around the new power plant. Still, its too bad that saw ran great!
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws651.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws651.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
I found a complete PP330 for $25. Sounds like it is scored. Is that saw worth the cost of rebuild plus the $25 entry fee? I thought they were like $179 new at Tractor Supply.

When the CAD gods give you lemons, you are supposed to make lemonaide. Looks like I got the lemon part covered. Compression is about the same as if I stuck the tester in my mouth and blew. Didn't pull the muffler yet. No odd sounds pulling it over, though.

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Looks like I'll be in the market for a 380 top end.....
 
When the CAD gods give you lemons, you are supposed to make lemonaide. Looks like I got the lemon part covered. Compression is about the same as if I stuck the tester in my mouth and blew. Didn't pull the muffler yet. No odd sounds pulling it over, though.

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Looks like I'll be in the market for a 380 top end.....

Well it don't look too bad and you aint got much in it!
 
Well the carb is the least of my problems at this point. Pulled muffler and saw that piston is scored from the crown down about half way. Ring is also slightly scored. When I feel up to it I'm going to have to completely tear saw apart to get at cylinder. At least it looks like that. Then the issue becomes one of finding replacements.

Bob, that sucks. I hope it ain't too bad. New P/Cs are just about non existent.

I dont remember but is that Dayton a decomp saw? If so those cyls are impossible to find new.
 
Bob, that sucks. I hope it ain't too bad. New P/Cs are just about non existent.

I dont remember but is that Dayton a decomp saw? If so those cyls are impossible to find new.

Mark, I think he's talking about a 2z463, which is a decomp. I think there are still lots of "parts saws" around..might find one with a good p&c. I've seen a few on ebay lately but don't know what kind of compression they had.
 
Mark, I think he's talking about a 2z463, which is a decomp. I think there are still lots of "parts saws" around..might find one with a good p&c. I've seen a few on ebay lately but don't know what kind of compression they had.

Yea I figured that but there were 2 different ones a 2Z463 and a 2Z463B.

The later "B" model had a manual decomp and used a completly different cyl

Either way it could be converted to no decomp at all if a good cyl was found but if it was a auto decomp model you have to change out the throttle lock.
 
Sold a nice, low hour 2.3 micro to a buddy. Long story short, lost his house, wife left him (no lie) so he sold his power equipment. I asked him about the 2.3 and he said sure give me $20 for it. No problems I sold it to him for $60. Got it home tried starting it, comp felt verrrry low. Heres what I found. He swears he didnt strait gas it but I call BS on that. The worst P/C Ive ever seen. But Ill say this. I came across an 024 that quit with A LOT less scoring than this. I had a spare 2.3 short block so I wrapped the saw around the new power plant. Still, its too bad that saw ran great!
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws651.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws651.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


Yikes...that's like a bad soap opera... (wait...is there a good one :dizzy:)

the piston: WOW!!! the pin side?!??!! I could only IMAGINE what the exhaust side looks like!!!

well, he *might not have straight gassed it...IF he didn't mix the oil in, used the WRONG oil mix (gear oil sinks through the gas) or let is sit FOREVER and the oil settled out...THEN he worked it REALLY hard.

just my $.02.
 
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well, he *might not have straight gassed it...IF he didn't mix the oil in, used the WRONG oil mix (gear oil sinks through the gas) or let is sit FOREVER and the oil settled out...THEN he worked it REALLY hard.

just my $.02.[/QUOTE]

Possible. He bought it off me less than a year ago, lost the house 6 months ago. Mix couldn't have been that old. He also had a screw missing from the air filter cover and the remaining was loose. That didn't help.
Also The pic is the exhaust side. That saw must have gotten real hot.
 
Yea I figured that but there were 2 different ones a 2Z463 and a 2Z463B.

The later "B" model had a manual decomp and used a completly different cyl

Either way it could be converted to no decomp at all if a good cyl was found but if it was a auto decomp model you have to change out the throttle lock.

I know they aren't the favorites but my decomp valve seems to be working ok, at least for now on my Dayton. I have a newer Husqvarna that seems to have about the same valve on it. I really like the Dayton after I got new fuel lines and carb rebuild. I haven't gotten around to doing anything with the Dayton 4 cube yet. I think all that was wrong with it was the fuel filter fell off, eventually I know I'll need to put a new fuel line on it.
What do you mean by "manual decomp?" My label on mine says 2z463 but doesn't have a b on the end and I'm thinking mine is manual. If I remember correctly you push on the valve to work it then it comes back when saw starts....not positive about that, it's been awhile since I've used it.
 
If I remember correctly you push on the valve to work it then it comes back when saw starts....not positive about that, it's been awhile since I've used it.

I think Mark is referring to the automatic decomp which is operated when you lock the throttle. it does NOT have a push button.

j
 
Possible. He bought it off me less than a year ago, lost the house 6 months ago. Mix couldn't have been that old. He also had a screw missing from the air filter cover and the remaining was loose. That didn't help.
Also The pic is the exhaust side. That saw must have gotten real hot.

you are all wrong. He mixed either foundry sand or valve grinding compound at 24 to 1......with high test and nothing else...:chainsaw:[/QUOTE]

I'd say he wasn't lying... Mixed oil with it. 100:1:jawdrop:. you can do it with the AMSOIL, so why not the cheap stuff. :dizzy::cheers:
 
Yea I figured that but there were 2 different ones a 2Z463 and a 2Z463B.

The later "B" model had a manual decomp and used a completely different cyl

Either way it could be converted to no decomp at all if a good cyl was found but if it was a auto decomp model you have to change out the throttle lock.

Its a B model. I think both P&C can be salvaged with a little work. I've got some help toward that end. Two things have me puzzled though. First when I pulled the cylinder, I was surprised how much lateral piston movement there was on the wristpin. Secondly even with the rings off the piston, its a really tight fit putting it in the cylinder. It almost seems too tight. Do you know if this lateral movement and tight fit are normal? Thanks.
 

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