Nik's Poulan Thread

[joe25DA]

Been slacking off in my wood cutting activities lately because of the heat, humidity, skeeters..etc. Rounded up some energy thismorning and went to the woods with plenty of water & bug spray..lol
Wanted to give the old blue 4000 some excersize also. I put a 24" .58ga. bar & chain from my 385xp on it, and went after a fairly large swamp white oak

Very nice Gregg. That 24" looks right at home on that 4000. I have that same bar, (20" .58ga) on my 3.7. I had bought it to cut up some big oak we cut at my grandmothers back in June. I had a ton of pics. But they got deleted:censored:. I really like this set up. I have the 4000 muffler on this one. Might be my favorite saw.
Im very envious of your stock of timber!

Nice score Guido. Been getting some nice hauls lately
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[Modifiedmark]

Picked up a couple of new Poulan saws today. Here is a Micro XXV prior to cleaning.The Micro XXV sports a 10" bar.

Yep the Micro XXV came with a 10". The Micro XXV Deluxe came with a 12"

 

[Modifiedmark]

Put my Dayton (Poulan 245a) back together after a carb rebuild, new fuel line and filter. Saw starts easy and idles but will not accelerate smoothly. If I very gently squeeze the throttle it will rev up somewhat. I changed filter thinking that might be the cause. no dice. I've adjusted the Lo speed screw numerous times to no avail. I'm beginning to think it might be on the metering side of carb but not sure. Because removing the carb takes patience I thought I'd look to you guys for any suggestions so I don't have to do it three times. I haven't pressure and vacuum tested saw but don't think that is the issue. Besides blocking off the carb would take some patience in a small working area.
Bob

Bob is the saw smoking or acting like its rich? Did you block the governor of in the carb?

When you rev it up does adjusting the H screw make much difference? Can you run that screw in most of the way without it dieing?

Sounds like a 306 I had with a faulty governor in it.

Then again a weak spark can cause similar symptoms.

Hard for me to explain on here.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Been slacking off in my wood cutting activities lately because of the heat, humidity, skeeters..etc. Rounded up some energy thismorning and went to the woods with plenty of water & bug spray..lol
Wanted to give the old blue 4000 some excersize also. I put a 24" .58ga. bar & chain from my 385xp on it, and went after a fairly large swamp white oak it.

It handles it like it was made for it, no problem with power either.
I didn't take any videos, but did manage to snap a few pics. I kow everyone likes pics.. I took the Super 380 along as backup. I had a 24" power match bar on this 4000 before, but put that on my 245A. I don't know why it never dawned on me that I should give the Husky bar a try on the Poulan.
Saves a bunch of $$$ this way.



Gregg,

Greg, I gave you some of those ring type bar stud spacers didn't I?

They work very will with those Husky bars.

I'll bet that 84dl chain seemed a bit long on it didnt it?

 

[OhioGregg]

Greg, I gave you some of those ring type bar stud spacers didn't I?

They work very will with those Husky bars.

I'll bet that 84dl chain seemed a bit long on it didnt it?

Yep, you sure did Mark, I'm saving the last set I have, hopefully, for the 5200 when I get that operational Will be putting a 30" Carlton large Husky style mount bar on it.


Gregg,

 

[OhioGregg]

Picked up a couple of new Poulan saws today. Here is a Micro XXV prior to cleaning.


The second was a 3400 (also before cleaning).



I have not tried to start them, but did spend a few minutes cleaning them up this afternoon before the rain started. The Micro XXV sports a 10" bar and the 3400 has a 16" bar. Here is how they look now.

I need a bar tensioner screw for the 3400 if anyone has a spare.

They both cleaned up real nice!!
Sorry I don't have the adjuster screw you need. You would think a fella with a bunch of these saws would have extras wouldn't ya.


Gregg,

 

[joe25DA]

Greg, I gave you some of those ring type bar stud spacers didn't I?

They work very will with those Husky bars.

I'll bet that 84dl chain seemed a bit long on it didnt it?

The chain on my 20" is on the long side as well.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yep, you sure did Mark, I'm saving the last set I have, hopefully, for the 5200 when I get that operational Will be putting a 30" Carlton large Husky style mount bar on it.


Gregg,

I think I can dig up a couple more if needed.

The chain on my 20" is on the long side as well.

Yep don't surprise me, seems they like to run about 1 dl less on the Poulans.

Seems they work so far though with the Husky DL counts.

 

[SawGarage]

Also, check the (2) 5/16" hex bolts that hold the intake to your cyl. Ive found a few saws where they were loose. That will spell trouble in the form of an air leak, that could cause lean seizure. Put a new plug and air filter in and run it.

Joe,

HOW IN GOD'S GOOD GREEN EARTH do you get to those bolt heads with the way that fuel tank is shaped?!?!?! I was about to pull the cyl up, as I can't get a good enough grip on these to tighten OR loosen... EVEN with a 1/4" univeral... it's leaking so bad, a bit of carb cleaner down the impulse hole will leak out the gasket area.

Plus, I could have sworn you mentioned the filters are tough to find.... not that i've looked.

... but it pulls over ridiculously easy. ... Spend the money on a quality chain instead.


Any thoughts on anti kickback chain like Carlton EP-GL Semi-chisel for this type of saw? http://www.sawchain.com/products/productdescChain.asp?SeriesID=1 Sort of like my limbs where they are

Paul, I have a couple 3400/3700 saws that are EASY to pull.... may also have to do with the size of the pulley, etc...

like others said, fix the chain, don't hit any rocks, and take the 15-20 bux and put them into some chaps... then while using your good chain; just WATCH where the bar tip is. I've only triggered a brake a couple times, and only ONCE when the chain was moving....so depends on how safe you are as well.

I personnally go gasketless.
Bob

well, the ladies might like that! :spam:

 

[Modifiedmark]

Joe,

HOW IN GOD'S GOOD GREEN EARTH do you get to those bolt heads with the way that fuel tank is shaped?!?!?! I was about to pull the cyl up, as I can't get a good enough grip on these to tighten OR loosen... EVEN with a 1/4" univeral... it's leaking so bad, a bit of carb cleaner down the impulse hole will leak out the gasket area.

Yep, not unlike some other saw brands, you will want to pull the jug to do that.

 

[joe25DA]

J,
Its not that bad. I use a slotted screwdriver then a 5/16" wrench I think. Give me a call if you need a hand.
The air filters are easy to find. Oregon has a line of them, I have used them before.

 

[SawGarage]

opcorn: FIGHT FIGHT!! lol



Mark 'N Joe,

1st, Thank you guys...!

Mark, that's what I was thinking...

Joe,
but would it be easier to pop the jug up?? I found it a bit frustrating trying to get in there..

BUT on the other hand, I will try that way, as maybe i was out of patience at that point, with a crowded bench, bar still on knocking things around, and no vise to hold the saw...

 

[joe25DA]

opcorn: FIGHT FIGHT!! lol



Mark 'N Joe,

1st, Thank you guys...!

Mark, that's what I was thinking...

Joe,
but would it be easier to pop the jug up?? I found it a bit frustrating trying to get in there..

BUT on the other hand, I will try that way, as maybe i was out of patience at that point, with a crowded bench, bar still on knocking things around, and no vise to hold the saw...

I'd go with what Mark said. The only reason I didn't pull the jug is inever thought to! Would have saved some time.

 

[Modifiedmark]

opcorn: FIGHT FIGHT!! lol



Mark 'N Joe,

1st, Thank you guys...!

Mark, that's what I was thinking...

Joe,
but would it be easier to pop the jug up?? I found it a bit frustrating trying to get in there..

BUT on the other hand, I will try that way, as maybe i was out of patience at that point, with a crowded bench, bar still on knocking things around, and no vise to hold the saw...

Joe is right , but my way is much better when trying to get the manifold back on without mangling the new gasket.

 

[joe25DA]

Joe is right , but my way is much better when trying to get the manifold back on without mangling the new gasket.

Yup. That was a ton of fun

 

[rms61moparman]

You can have the jug off, the manifold tightened and the jug back on in less time than it takes to tighten one bolt at 1/8th turn at a time!!!
Never mind asking how I know this!LOL


Mike

 

[OhioGregg]

I think I can dig up a couple more if needed.



Yep don't surprise me, seems they like to run about 1 dl less on the Poulans.

Seems they work so far though with the Husky DL counts.

The Husky chain on the 4000 is a little long, but has a little more adjustment range left.
I ordered a 97 drive link chain for the 30" bar, the Husky uses 98. So that might fit it a little better.


Gregg,

 

[joe25DA]

Haha its true Mike! I would do this method if I have to do an intake gasket again. I only told pauly to check them as I found my 4000's loose when i bought it. For intake removal or gasket replacement I'd pull the jug. Its real easy as mark and mike said.

 

[SawGarage]

You can have the jug off, the manifold tightened and the jug back on in less time than it takes to tighten one bolt at 1/8th turn at a time!!!
Never mind asking how I know this!LOL


Mike

EXACTLY what I was experiencing... in FACT, i gave up that night...I know Joe would be mad (or maybe happy) if I pushed it off the bench and told him to take the red headed-step child away...lol.


ORIGINAL BANANA BAR too...
rest of the saw is clean:

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Put my Dayton (Poulan 245a) back together after a carb rebuild, new fuel line and filter. Saw starts easy and idles but will not accelerate smoothly. If I very gently squeeze the throttle it will rev up somewhat. I changed filter thinking that might be the cause. no dice. I've adjusted the Lo speed screw numerous times to no avail. I'm beginning to think it might be on the metering side of carb but not sure. Because removing the carb takes patience I thought I'd look to you guys for any suggestions so I don't have to do it three times. I haven't pressure and vacuum tested saw but don't think that is the issue. Besides blocking off the carb would take some patience in a small working area.
Bob

On my Dayton I just figured it would need the whole fuel system rebuilt so I put new fuel lines in, cleaned and rebuilt the carb and fired it up and didn't seem to even need adjusting carb after initial setting. Mine runs smooth and I can't see any problems with it. I got lucky..
Do you have the high speed screw adjusted correctly..at high speed the carb uses the low+high screws so you might try tweaking the H a little.