Nik's Poulan Thread

Wesspur
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I am looking at a few different saws, and would like your guys input. First is the pp5020 next is a Remington 55cc 20 bar. I know the 5020 is a good saw. The Remington I don't know much about except it got good consumer reviews, and it also is a old company that was out of the market a while. Please let me know what you think. If u have info on the Remington it would be most appreciated. Thanks.
 
Blisters said:
I am looking at a few different saws, and would like your guys input. First is the pp5020 next is a Remington 55cc 20 bar. I know the 5020 is a good saw. The Remington I don't know much about except it got good consumer reviews, and it also is a old company that was out of the market a while. Please let me know what you think. If u have info on the Remington it would be most appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...

The new Remingtons have nothing to do with the old ones. I think the new ones are out of China.

One thing to consider is spare parts availability.

Poulan parts are readily available and very reasonable. I don't know if you would find the same with the Remington.
 
Plus one for what fossil said about Remington parts availability. IIRC those saws were traced back to MTD. Some manufacturer is using the Remington name to overprice cheaply made saws. FWIW the folks who post in the Remington sticky thread avoid the "new" Remington saws.

The Poulan 5020 or 4818 would be the better choice.
 
Blisters said:
I am looking at a few different saws, and would like your guys input. First is the pp5020 next is a Remington 55cc 20 bar. I know the 5020 is a good saw. The Remington I don't know much about except it got good consumer reviews, and it also is a old company that was out of the market a while. Please let me know what you think. If u have info on the Remington it would be most appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...

There are some other Poulan Models you might want to consider that will run circles around the PP 5020. There are still plenty of parts around for these models
and they are easy to work on. These are just the ones I know that have the chrome cylinder and unplated piston.

Poulan Pro 365 60cc
Poulan 3750 60cc
Poulan 3500 60cc
Poulan Pro super 380 60cc
Poulan Pro 330 54cc
Poulan Pro 335 54cc
Poulan 3450 54cc

Poulan also makes quite a few models with unplated cylinders and plated pistons. Those saws are also good running and will still fall into the 54cc to 60cc range.

Good luck with your search.
 
3000 FPS said:
There are some other Poulan Models you might want to consider that will run circles around the PP 5020. There are still plenty of parts around for these models
and they are easy to work on. These are just the ones I know that have the chrome cylinder and unplated piston.

Poulan Pro 365 60cc
Poulan 3750 60cc
Poulan 3500 60cc
Poulan Pro super 380 60cc
Poulan Pro 330 54cc
Poulan Pro 335 54cc
Poulan 3450 54cc

Poulan also makes quite a few models with unplated cylinders and plated pistons. Those saws are also good running and will still fall into the 54cc to 60cc range.

Good luck with your search.
Click to expand...
I'm looking for em FPS but no luck any ideas on a broader serch? Other than Craig's and e bay?
 
Blisters said:
I'm looking for em FPS but no luck any ideas on a broader serch? Other than Craig's and e bay?
Click to expand...

The saws listed are out of production so you would be buying used. If you know what to look for and are able to fix them up to bring them to top condition, they are a far superior saw to what you were looking for and likely to be had cheaper than you may pay for the Remington or Poulan you were considering
If you don't have the inclination to do that you may be better buying the 5020.
There is a section here where members sell used saws. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/tradin-post.132/

Most of the guys on here have multiple saws and enjoy buying and fixing them up. If you did decide to buy used, you could ask for tips on what to look for when buying a used saw. The guys on here are a good bunch and would be happy to help you with info on fixing any issues you come across.
 
fossil said:
The saws listed are out of production so you would be buying used. If you know what to look for and are able to fix them up to bring them to top condition, they are a far superior saw to what you were looking for and likely to be had cheaper than you may pay for the Remington or Poulan you were considering
If you don't have the inclination to do that you may be better buying the 5020.
There is a section here where members sell used saws. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/tradin-post.132/

Most of the guys on here have multiple saws and enjoy buying and fixing them up. If you did decide to buy used, you could ask for tips on what to look for when buying a used saw. The guys on here are a good bunch and would be happy to help you with info on fixing any issues you come across.
Click to expand...

Fossil does make some good points there. I think I just saw a PP 330 on ebay the other day that looked fairly new and was ready to go . I believe they wanted about 170.00 for it. If you can work on them you can find them cheaper.
 
3000 FPS said:
There are some other Poulan Models you might want to consider that will run circles around the PP 5020. There are still plenty of parts around for these models
and they are easy to work on. These are just the ones I know that have the chrome cylinder and unplated piston.

Poulan Pro 365 60cc
Poulan 3750 60cc
Poulan 3500 60cc
Poulan Pro super 380 60cc
Poulan Pro 330 54cc
Poulan Pro 335 54cc
Poulan 3450 54cc

Poulan also makes quite a few models with unplated cylinders and plated pistons. Those saws are also good running and will still fall into the 54cc to 60cc range.

Good luck with your search.
Click to expand...

In my experience those models are not easy to find, especially on the local CL, and tend to be pricey on eBay. The 330 can sometimes be found as as a "sleeper" when rebadged as a Craftsman 3.3 (the label includes Sears Best, IIRC), but the prices have been going up as more folks realize what the 3.3 is.
 
Chris J. said:
In my experience those models are not easy to find, especially on the local CL, and tend to be pricey on eBay. The 330 can sometimes be found as as a "sleeper" when rebadged as a Craftsman 3.3 (the label includes Sears Best, IIRC), but the prices have been going up as more folks realize what the 3.3 is.
Click to expand...


The PP 330 was not ever rebadged as a Craftsman.

Most 3.3 Craftsman saws were rebadged 3300's.

Just sayin.
 
I have a saw that has a weird air leak symptom. At idle it has begun to wander. New seals, gasket delete on the jug, and saw holds in both directions with cold p/v tests.

At best I can describe the sound as a "chirping" that will precede the lean idle symptom. It will start to pick up RPM, leaning out as the "chirping" sound increases. Sound will diminish and saw settles down. This pattern will repeat. Sprayed some WD around the rear base of the jug bolts during symptom and saw will settle down. I have reset the jug and all bolts with Motoseal again. Symptom reappeared. I figure something is either up with the mating surfaces or there is a leak in the case halves just around that area. Sound seems to emanate from there.

Going to split halves this time and reseal. What would be a suitable thin gasket material for the jug be. Figure the Motoseal might just not be enough. Thinking of making something from a disposable pie plate.

Thoughts on the "chirping" saw?
 
Hoggwood said:
I have a saw that has a weird air leak symptom. At idle it has begun to wander. New seals, gasket delete on the jug, and saw holds in both directions with cold p/v tests.

At best I can describe the sound as a "chirping" that will precede the lean idle symptom. It will start to pick up RPM, leaning out as the "chirping" sound increases. Sound will diminish and saw settles down. This pattern will repeat. Sprayed some WD around the rear base of the jug bolts during symptom and saw will settle down. I have reset the jug and all bolts with Motoseal again. Symptom reappeared. I figure something is either up with the mating surfaces or there is a leak in the case halves just around that area. Sound seems to emanate from there.

Going to split halves this time and reseal. What would be a suitable thin gasket material for the jug be. Figure the Motoseal might just not be enough. Thinking of making something from a disposable pie plate.

Thoughts on the "chirping" saw?
Click to expand...


Check the intake boot where the carb plate bolts to it and make sure that it dose not have any small splits in it.

It happens when the carb bolts are over tightened.

That might not be it, but worth checking.
 

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