I had a saw behave just as you described. The points needed cleaning and adjusting. Runs great now
Don't ditch your points set up. The run and last for years after you set them up properly. Very reliable ignition systems.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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I had a saw behave just as you described. The points needed cleaning and adjusting. Runs great now
Don't ditch your points set up. The run and last for years after you set them up properly. Very reliable ignition systems.
Boomer 87
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ok so thanks to all who gave me some pointers, i did clean and adjust the points. I took the carb of again and pulled the welch plugs, and lo and behold the hi side was packed shut with debris, cleaned it out reassembled and bam running 360. Then i remembered that the inlet screen was missing so theres where all the debris came from. Long story short even though most of the time you dont have to pull the welch plugs........ some times you do lol
Packed full of shut, no wonder it just idled!
Those 360 & 361 sure are torquey saws.
Those 360 & 361 sure are torquey saws.
What's the Poulan part numbers from your IPL? They should be easy to cross from the numbers.
Poulan 360-451
FW side crank seal OEM 1986 Dichtomatic 056081TC SKF 5523
PTO side crank seal OEM 1914 Dichtomatic 06081SM
Ok so thanks to all who gave me some pointers, i did clean and adjust the points. I took the carb of again and pulled the welch plugs, and lo and behold the hi side was packed shut with debris, cleaned it out reassembled and bam running 360. Then i remembered that the inlet screen was missing so theres where all the debris came from. Long story short even though most of the time you dont have to pull the welch plugs........ some times you do lol
See thats why its hard to give advice online.
We have no idea when told that the carb was done if it was done completely or not. I have been through this many times and 9 times out of 10 I always pull the welch plugs because you just never know on these old saws..
Glad to hear you got it going though, thats for sure.
I thought I crossed that PTO side to Dichto #07111TB, you may want to double check that number as I'm on a cell phone. The Dichto is a preferred 2 lip seal like the OEM, the SKF #7414 is a single lip, but will work. Both sides were garter spring types.
EDIT, that 06081SM is the midget sized oil pump cover seal for a 306/245 series.
That's 49°F not that C stuff. We do have mild winter here, around the 20' and 30's for the low but come summer its hi humidity and in the hi 90's and 100's. You get two showers in the evening, the one in the bathroom and the other when you go outside. You can easily pour sweat at 10 PM outside.
Steve
Steve
Good catch.
I will double check what I got in my seal box, my list might have gotten mixed up when updating it.
OK, I honestly never bought any Dichtos for the 361 series, only for the 306s, as the Poulan OEM seals for the 361 are still easy to find.
Boomer 87
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just assumed the 360 seal would be NLA, as so much is these days, but yeah my first clue as to removing welch plug was the missing screen. But i guess i got used to slapping soft parts in and goin bc i typically get that lucky. This was a slap back to reality on just do it right outta the chute.
. This was a slap back to reality on just do it right outta the chute.
Boomer 87
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just went and tried to tune it in some wood i kept having to go richer and richer, im confident its getting air from more than the carb throat. Im just gonna put some crank seals in it and try again.
Yeah well, 49C is 120F. I don't think you'd have to layer up
No you caught it right, the 06081SM is not for the 361 it is the 306 pump seal. I must have copied in down in my list wrong. The SKF 7414 that I originally came up with is the right PTO side seal.
But looking through my box and notes I find the FW side seal that you came up with is wrong, the Dichtomatic 056081TC is only for a .500 shaft. I recently came across a bag full of NOS 1986 seals and they are for a bigger shaft. The SKF 5523 is the correct seal for the fw side.
So let me say the seals for a 360-451 are
SKF 5523 FW side and SKF 7414 for the PTO side.
Randy these are the seals I think I originally came up with and had in that list that I gave you to go over. The Dichtomatic 07111TB appears to be correct for the PTO, I don't know, never tried one.
I do at this point know that the Dichtomatic 056081TC that you came up with is not correct for the FW side. It's maybe my fault I didn't catch that sooner. I actually bought a couple of those and just threw them in my seal box, but again I didn't have a NOS seal here to compare to and wasn't tearing them back out of my saw that already had the SKF seals in it.
I think you got caught up in trying to find the "improved" seals with the double lip on them, which is fine but I do not go out of my way to find double lip seals to replace a OEM single lip seal.
The outer lips most the time are just a dust seal and when on the FW side on like a 361 that used a closed point box on top of that seal, I find a double lip seal to be of little advantage.
If I remember right the original PTO side seal was single lip as well and those have lasted for many years.
Boomer, I'm sorry for the confusion. You can just get the SKF seals I listed and be good to go.
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