Nik's Poulan Thread

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Found this orphan outside my shop door tonight . Was circling like a cat in heat . After a wipe down it's pretty good . It needs gone through and the chain is too long for the saw. Hello 1985 !
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Wish it was green !

Looks good. I found this little 1800 next to the dumpster at the dump last year needed fuel lines only. They are great little saws. I have a gray one also found in the trash in a case but it needs going through.
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Looks like a big Poulan hiding behind that Stihl.

Steve
so what series of older saws can you still buy parts for that were upper size say 50 to 60 cc range....i know the farm hands they were 46 cc almost 50...im guessing the one behind the stihl in the pick 3300??? 3.3 ? are parts still available for those ? or are they becoming NLA also....I miss my last poulan 295's i sold all my saws i did not use that were not on shelfs and bought all new stuff this year....i may go read up on JJ's site he has alot of info on those model poulans...
 
Refresh my memory

I suspect some of you may have Poulan Micro's with the oiler check valve which is located behind the clutch. They give up after some period of time as they have a duckbill check valve which dissolves and won't oil.
This will let you know how to renew the valve which is becoming difficult to find.

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There is a duckbill and a brass bushing inside. I searched some time ago and someone had repaired them successfully.

The one I took apart looks like this. The screen is missing.

The duckbill goes in flange up followed by the bushing which is stopped by a shoulder in the body and then the screen which is MIA

I cleaned and reassembled the valve parts in the order in the above pic. The duckbill is Poulan PN 530026119 which is readily available.

As mentioned previously, I had filed the top off that valve to remove the screen so I had no room to put the screen back in. I'm not sure how much debris the screen keeps out as the three I have removed had clean screens. I guess I will see if I use the saw for some length of time.



A few notes.

When the bushing, which is a slight press fit goes in, make sure it is firmly seated against the duckbill. If it is not, air will leak back to the crankcase and no pressure will build in the oil tank.

I peened the bushing / valve body to keep the bushing in place.
If I do another I'll pop the rolled lip back with a shaped drift so I can put the screen back in.
Some other member(s) mentioned that they used some JB Weld to put the screen back on but I was a little reluctant as I wouldn't want it to fall off and end up in a bearing.

If you haven't run one of these before make sure you release the pressure in the oil tank by unscrewing the cap or it will keep oiling after you shut it off until the tank pressure bleeds off.

It works great.
 
Isn't there also supposed to be a washer/seal above the threads as pictured in the bag of bad ones a few posts back?

There's a screen in there. The lip of the hole is rolled over to hold things together. I file it off.
Some guys JB weld the screen back in. I leave it out. None of the ones I've pulled out had any residue of any kind on them. Not sure if that's the reason it's there or not.
I figure if the JB welded screen got loose it wouldn't do anything good.

OR

If you're talking about the fibre washer under the head to seal it up, yes. Separate part on the IPL.
 

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