Nik's Poulan Thread
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dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
I finally got a chain brake for my S25. I always wondered why they sent a drum with the kit. It appears they machine the outside flat for the brake band and change the part number. The brake handle was set extremely tight and I backed the adjustment off several turns. It killed the engine every time I tripped it, so I guess it's effective! It also comes with a long mounting bolt, scrench, and an outside guide bar shim that has a piece that covers the exposed chain between the handle and engine. Too bad the bolt head isn't the same size as my other saws, so I'll have to carry the scrench they included.
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for the info. I found a few other varieties and have a few on order. The crack pressure varies on them, ball type is the worst. Mine may be too large as well.
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
The S25 I just put the brake on started in 8 pulls and it hasn't ran for months. However, I have one I sold a friend and it takes many pulls after it has set, unless you prime it. That's the one I want to try the check on. I even replaced the reed and seat, (which is the top of the saw), because it was pitted. It helped, but still not right. I cleaned and kitted the carb, but there is probably a bit of a leak in it causing the fuel to leak back. That's my only guess. Maybe the seat is bad on the inlet needle. The saw runs great and starts easy after the first time. My theory on the reed causing the problem, wetting the reed/seat with the primer made it seal better allowing the impulse to function correctly. I think it was partially correct. I have a different brand of carb on a spare saw, but I need to rebuild it.
I had that written down somewhere but cannot find it right now. If I remember correctly you are right on the metric measurement. 15x35x5
I can look tonight Tim. I have some OEM, but never looked for the small numbers stamped on the seal.
Seems I need my glasses and a hand lens to see much of anything small these days.
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
Also look at the check flaps . If it is pitted around the hole or its defective it might not seal. I have also put the wrong one in before using a multiple carb Oregon kit.
This is my favorite 3400, it is the one pictured on the sign, early model with adjustable Oiler and round A/F cover knob, yes that is a 3700 bow saw in the rear
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I like the sign if given a choice of the 3.
So I got one of my new crank seals out and measured it with a dial caliper. The measurements you have in inches are pretty much what I measured.
Looks like the saw on the sign was photo shoped and enhansed,I believe it had a Micro on it first.
Steve
Steve
Where did you steal a sign that big? Only sign i ever see are Husky.
Steve
Steve
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
The factory said no mill time for me , so I did it the old way with saws drills grinders and files . I didnt like the shiny look so I blasted and painted black . Will paint manifold tomorrow . @ Steve. This one worked to point forward doubt it is.... Quiet. LOL
Tom
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
Good lookin saw .How many power poles are down?
Just picked this up tonight. Looks to be in good shape and has compression. 4400. Not my pics
No fuel line. That was the selling point. I have to go through it and see what I've got to do. Then, power poles WATCH OUT.
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
Love it , im about there . Looks like a forest of straight trees !
Thanks Roger!
Bet that saw is gonna sound mean, looks good.
Nice find Tim. A bit of orange under the green? Was that the primer colour or a rebrand that was unbranded?
Seals check out with the metric dimensions.
Curious if there is a rule of thumb with interference on seals. The outside measured at 35.15 mm. About .006" over. How much interference is ideal at the lip diameter/crank?
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