Nik's Poulan Thread

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With so many 3400's thought I'd port the one I'm working on. By porting, all I did was widen the exhaust port and smooth out the intake manifold by removing the slight angle inside. What is everyone usng to advance the timing slightly ? Thinning the woodruff key or some other item. I imagine only a small counterclockwise movement of the flywheel is required.
 
Nice find Tim. A bit of orange under the green? Was that the primer colour or a rebrand that was unbranded?

Seals check out with the metric dimensions.

Curious if there is a rule of thumb with interference on seals. The outside measured at 35.15 mm. About .006" over. How much interference is ideal at the lip diameter/crank?

Thanks for checking the seals Cory.

It does show what looks like red oxide primer but I'll have to get a closer look today. I've never seen that before if that's what it is. I checked. The saw is a complete sears repaint. No tag, just a SN stuck on the rear handle with the bilingual lablels. Made in the US and ship;ed here. It does have an operator presence lock so I assume it was made for CDN sales.

There are standards for oil seals so they are all within these specs from the different manufacturers . I have never seen a spec for the shaft to sealing lip interference.

case to bore interference spec for a metal case seal is +.005" +/- .002" for seals with a bore 2" or less
Case to bore interference spec for a rubber cased seal is +.008, +/- .003" for seals with a bore 2" or less

That may change in application depending upon case material , operating temps etc.

I've found on the new seals that are correct for the application that the sealing lip interference with the shaft is close to .040" Somewhat difficult to measure as the material is pretty soft.

Both SKF and Timken have great info in their on line seal catalogs for design, materials, etc.

Oil seals are generally (certainly the ones we use) within these specs

RMA = Rubber Manufacturers Association
SAE = Society of Automotive Engineers
ISO = International Organization for Standardization
DIN = Deutsches Institut für Normung
 
Got a little wood today


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Searching the forum It must be a bad valve . It is full of oil after little running time . Valve # 530069142. I needed instant gratification on the pipe so I put it on this 2300AV.
It is raspy and rings your ear . Love it ! I need to get a tiny tac and check out the rpm .

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Vid, or it's no fair. You are gonna have to rebuild the valve with a new duck bill valve.
 
Hi guys, I normally hang out in the McCulloch forum but I just picked up a 3400 that I want to fix up for a friend who is buying a house.
It ran when I got it but ran erratic. Went to tune the carb and noticed it was moving around so I took the top off to investigate and found the carb screws loose and the carb falling off. Tightened that up and messed with it some but it still seems off.
Gonna start with a carb kit. Also need the duck bill for the fuel tank vent if anyone has a part number. And does anyone have a number for crank seals?
On the plus side, I pulled the muffler an the P&C look good and it blew 150psi on my compression guage.
 

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