RandyMac
Stiff Member
Yes, hippies are for shooting at, for rednecks I coat the cans with honey, and leave some feathers close by.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would fall for that
. I was in the Ave of the Giants a couple summers back too, you woulda got me...
redunshee
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Kilmathian
ArboristSite Lurker
4200 Revs - Misfire problem.
Morning,
I have been working when I get spare time on my saws, the old 4200 has the flywheel stripped at the moment including the phelon gear. The new 4200 after a long and steady introduction is nearly ready to go, my only task is to replace the oil line which had expired due to the magnesium oxide in the tank and the fact it had a steel spring wrapped around it.
My question for the more experienced gentlemen here concerns my old 4200, for a long time it had been having a problem with reaching maximum revs and firing intermittently. It was taken to the chainsaw shop the mechanic there said it was loose wire on the coil, good I thought. Now my problem is that when I start the saw and open it up, that works like a charm, but the full revs slowly while still having the throttle pressed hard cycle down.
I have rebuilt the carb, not that I think it is that though merely to eliminate factors, the wire from the spark plug to the coil has had some contact with the flywheel but seems intact. The only thing that I can pinpoint is that perhaps because of shot crankcase bearings (2mm of lateral play) there has been a build up of heat which may have compromised the wires running from the ignition module to the coil and also the kill switch (kill switch does not work).
My question is after splitting and rebuilding the saw with new bearings, is it possible to terminate those wires leaving the ignition module and solder replacements on? My other question is do you guys think I am missing the mark? Any thoughts and opinions appreciated.
Justin
Morning,
I have been working when I get spare time on my saws, the old 4200 has the flywheel stripped at the moment including the phelon gear. The new 4200 after a long and steady introduction is nearly ready to go, my only task is to replace the oil line which had expired due to the magnesium oxide in the tank and the fact it had a steel spring wrapped around it.
My question for the more experienced gentlemen here concerns my old 4200, for a long time it had been having a problem with reaching maximum revs and firing intermittently. It was taken to the chainsaw shop the mechanic there said it was loose wire on the coil, good I thought. Now my problem is that when I start the saw and open it up, that works like a charm, but the full revs slowly while still having the throttle pressed hard cycle down.
I have rebuilt the carb, not that I think it is that though merely to eliminate factors, the wire from the spark plug to the coil has had some contact with the flywheel but seems intact. The only thing that I can pinpoint is that perhaps because of shot crankcase bearings (2mm of lateral play) there has been a build up of heat which may have compromised the wires running from the ignition module to the coil and also the kill switch (kill switch does not work).
My question is after splitting and rebuilding the saw with new bearings, is it possible to terminate those wires leaving the ignition module and solder replacements on? My other question is do you guys think I am missing the mark? Any thoughts and opinions appreciated.
Justin
Justin, is the copper actually corroded or is the insulation just cut/torn ? My old 85hp Merc had corroded copper in the alternator wires caused by ozone. I peeled back the insulation to good copper then tined and soldered on new wires. I used Liquid Lectric Tape to cover the solder splice.
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
Will do at least it will help a little what will help alot is for folks to buy my homelite parts and mcculloch and poulan obsolete inventory off my site wish some dealer would find my site and buy me out
CGC4200
Addicted to ArboristSite
I hope my 4200 doesn't do that
The 5400 started popping a few years ago & then wouldn't fire anymore.
I had to buy a new ignition module to fix.
Good luck on finding one, maybe Calvin can help.
The 5400 started popping a few years ago & then wouldn't fire anymore.
I had to buy a new ignition module to fix.
Good luck on finding one, maybe Calvin can help.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
4200 arrived
Well made it back home and saw my 4200 from Canada arrived. Don't have pictures yet as my son borrowed my camera. Comp is 150 and piston looks good thru exhaust opening. Also has good spark. Missing the throttle lock button and fuel tank seems to have stripped threads as fuel cap is very hard to tighten. Has a full wrap handle and as expected paint in poor condition. Good candidate for repainting. Did notice that the fuel line hole in tank isn't angled like my 5200 which surprised me as I thought they were identical saws physically. Also opening seems to be a little smaller. If I can figure out how to fix fuel tank thread issue think it'll be a good addition. Sure wish decals were available, if and when I repaint saw.
Bob
Well made it back home and saw my 4200 from Canada arrived. Don't have pictures yet as my son borrowed my camera. Comp is 150 and piston looks good thru exhaust opening. Also has good spark. Missing the throttle lock button and fuel tank seems to have stripped threads as fuel cap is very hard to tighten. Has a full wrap handle and as expected paint in poor condition. Good candidate for repainting. Did notice that the fuel line hole in tank isn't angled like my 5200 which surprised me as I thought they were identical saws physically. Also opening seems to be a little smaller. If I can figure out how to fix fuel tank thread issue think it'll be a good addition. Sure wish decals were available, if and when I repaint saw.
Bob
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have some modules that dont have part #s so pictures of the modules will help alot if someone needs a module for these older units
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
That is good compression reading there the throttle lock button is part # 23671
10198 is the fuel tank assb if u wind up needing one 10331 is the cap itself
25631 24207 23721 are the decal part #s
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Poulan 245A Possible F### up
Are the muffler bolts the same size? The bottom bolt(smaller head) seems to be smaller than the top Bolt(larger head). Larger one had bad threads so I used a 1/4-20 die and tap to fix. I also did the same to the smaller headed bolt but now it is loose and won't tighten. The larger one is fine. Thought they would be the same size but now I don't know. If not, does anyone know what size its suppose to be and what my options are? Hope it can be rectified.
Bob
Are the muffler bolts the same size? The bottom bolt(smaller head) seems to be smaller than the top Bolt(larger head). Larger one had bad threads so I used a 1/4-20 die and tap to fix. I also did the same to the smaller headed bolt but now it is loose and won't tighten. The larger one is fine. Thought they would be the same size but now I don't know. If not, does anyone know what size its suppose to be and what my options are? Hope it can be rectified.
Bob
Bob, the muffler bolts are supposed to be #12 screws. Don't mess this up anymore, theres not alot of room for error. Sounds like you need to put some timezerts (spelling?) in there. If your not comfortable doing that you may have to get a machine shop to do it for you.
As to the 5200 decals, there partly done. Joe didn't know about the top cover decals and must have lost the pictures I sent to him.
So if you have a early all green 5200 the decals are ready but I just resent him the black top cover decal pictures for him to get those done.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I should have known but its been too long of a day to care right now.
Thanks!!
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Parts are NLA Calvin
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe from poulan but let me do some checking saturday im going to be going thru more stuff never know what will be found i found my digital camera so it going to be charging tomorrow evening
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Goodness gracious, looks like I was off one size too big. Think I can fix the bolts using a 12-24 die. Insofar as the cylinder I'll look to see what time-serts cost. May be better off looking for a new cylinder. Thanks, Mark.
Good luck with that........
If the rest of the saw is good, then it would be worth whatever it cost (within reason) to fix it.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
o.k...but you know we do need those pictures.......
150 should be healthy, the one I got is pumping 180...not sure what is up with that, it also has 16:1 on the air filter cover....might be a lot of carbon in there...it is the highest compression saw I own at the moment...
Pictures to follow soon. Got fuel cap issue resolved. Appears cap wasn't original. Lightly sanded cap threads to lower them and got it to fit nice and tight. Haven't tested it for leaks as of yet though I don't feel it will leak. Yea, the old Poulans all called for 16:1 based on oils at that time. I use 40:1 synthetic now w/o any problems.
Bob
