Nik's Poulan Thread

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Mabe you guys can help me, I got a lot of micros and the problem I'm having is some oil great some don't. One in particular, I did a full rebuild on, new ring, resurface the cylinder, all new gaskets, and crank seals, cleaned the oil pump and replaced the line, rebuilt the carb, and a new reed valve, problem is it oils but not great, barely enough to dampen the chain, I compare it to another micro I have thats mint and it oils like a mad man, you get a spray from the bar on that saw, so I'm wondering what it's supposed to be???????? The only thing I didn't replace on that saw would be the check valve, also every saw that has that weird whistle when pulling the cord with the throttle fully open dosn't seem to oil well??

Still wondering if anyone can identify why these saws whistle on startup????
 
Still wondering if anyone can identify why these saws whistle on startup????




Yes I can!

It is the coronet effect!
The reeds aren't sealing completely and are allowing just enough pressure to come back through the reeds to make that little squeaky whistle.
Just like playing a coronet or sax.
The first S25 I rebuilt scared the stuffin' out of me doing that.
I took the saw apart twice after the rebuild to find out what wasn't right and was making that terrible scraping squeak.
I felt really STUPID when I finally figured it out.


Mike
 
Poulan 4000 has me stumped

Put a 4000 P&C on one of my Poulans and had it running good. Cut some cookies and it was runnig fine but then stopped. I switched carbs and nothing. Put mix in carb, nothing. Put mix in cylinder, nothing. Its getting spark and when I pulled carb its wet, yet it won't sputter. Did a pressure and vacuum test and it held. Wonder if I need to pull cylinder and see whats up. Comp is 130 with new rings so I'm at a loss. Any ideas?
Bob
 
Put a 4000 P&C on one of my Poulans and had it running good. Cut some cookies and it was runnig fine but then stopped. I switched carbs and nothing. Put mix in carb, nothing. Put mix in cylinder, nothing. Its getting spark and when I pulled carb its wet, yet it won't sputter. Did a pressure and vacuum test and it held. Wonder if I need to pull cylinder and see whats up. Comp is 130 with new rings so I'm at a loss. Any ideas?
Bob






Sounds like a sheared flywheel key from here!

Mike
 
Jim, thats a nice haul you got there, a 5200 huh? :rockn:

Getting on the Poulan bandwagon, good for you.

Those 295's are not bad with a muffler mod and a 16" bar, actually light and kinda zippy. Sounds like the muffler came loose, can you patch the oil tank?

Oh, and since you posted no pictures we really can't believe that this happened can we? LOL


I never ran a 2800 so let me know how you like it. Its kinda big for only 46cc so curious about them. I have a 3300 which is on the same chassis but then its 54cc.

OK smarty pants:)


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You can see the hole in the oil tank.

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I have a poulan 3000 that I love, MM & SG chain, it rips! I think the 2800 has the raw aluminum bore, compression is fair...we'll see.
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Here's the 5200, I traded another member for it. It's a really well built saw!
It slightly scored the piston and stuck the rings. Tiny amount of aluminum transfer in the bore, it cleaned up very easily.
 
bob- is the plug getting wet ? my 25da quit on me like that after a rebuild. turned out the screen inside had plugged up with fibers from the re-used felt filter. cleaned screen & carb-new ceramic filter and runs right since.
 
Put a 4000 P&C on one of my Poulans and had it running good. Cut some cookies and it was runnig fine but then stopped. I switched carbs and nothing. Put mix in carb, nothing. Put mix in cylinder, nothing. Its getting spark and when I pulled carb its wet, yet it won't sputter. Did a pressure and vacuum test and it held. Wonder if I need to pull cylinder and see whats up. Comp is 130 with new rings so I'm at a loss. Any ideas?
Bob

I had a similar problem with one of my 4000's. New lines, filter, rebuilt carb. Same as you. I swapped a carb off a 3.7 and it ran perfect. Actually I just tuned it in the wood yesterday. What's strange is I put the "problem carb" from the 4000 on the 3.7 and it ran as good as before. I'd agree with Mike, check ur flywheel.
 
Yes I can!

It is the coronet effect!
The reeds aren't sealing completely and are allowing just enough pressure to come back through the reeds to make that little squeaky whistle.
Just like playing a coronet or sax.
The first S25 I rebuilt scared the stuffin' out of me doing that.
I took the saw apart twice after the rebuild to find out what wasn't right and was making that terrible scraping squeak.
I felt really STUPID when I finally figured it out.


Mike

Thanks, Question whats the fix??? It did this even after a new reed pedal was put on. Would giving it a very slight bend help??
 
Thanks, Question whats the fix??? It did this even after a new reed pedal was put on. Would giving it a very slight bend help??




Take the handle off and remove the reed valve and turn it over.
I would NOT go bending on those reeds.
Usually the ones I've seen run fine after you get them started.
Personally I wouldn't mess with it as long as it is starting and running good.

If you just have to fix it, flip the reed valve over. if that doesn't stop it you will have to replace the reed and/or the housing.


Mike


Mike
 
I had a similar problem with one of my 4000's. New lines, filter, rebuilt carb. Same as you. I swapped a carb off a 3.7 and it ran perfect. Actually I just tuned it in the wood yesterday. What's strange is I put the "problem carb" from the 4000 on the 3.7 and it ran as good as before. I'd agree with Mike, check ur flywheel.

Latest development. After pulling my hair out I threw out 1 month old gas and picked up some fresh gas. Also changed filter which I think was the culprit. Runs now but at idle if you put it on its side(recoil side down) it dies. Did it even after changing carbs. Guess I'm going to have to tear into it. Worst part is I had it sold and now have to offer the buyer his money back ,as I can't in good conscience, send it to him as it is. Too bad because it sold for way more than it should have. I did offer to send him another one I have and refund him some money for the inconvenience. I imagine there must be an air leak somewhere in saw for it to die on its side. Oh well live and learn.
 
Take the handle off and remove the reed valve and turn it over.
I would NOT go bending on those reeds.
Usually the ones I've seen run fine after you get them started.
Personally I wouldn't mess with it as long as it is starting and running good.

If you just have to fix it, flip the reed valve over. if that doesn't stop it you will have to replace the reed and/or the housing.


Mike


Mike

Hey thanks, I went and took the housing off and right away seen the reed wasn't sealing good. I had a few brand new reeds laying around so I tryed the new one and it's the same issue, just ever so slightly bent, so I went and tweaked them a bit until I got them flat, put em all back together and no more whistle, better throttle response, and a lot less back spray through the carb at hight idle. Thanks this is somthing that drove me crazy.
 
I have talked with a guy that has an old sears saw. He claims that there is no model number on it that he can find. It has a 17 or 18 inch bar on it. It is white on top and has blue sides. It has the oil and fuel filler caps on the top. The clutch cover says "power sharp" and "bolt action" on it. I can't get over there until friday. Anyone have a clue what this thing might be? It's driving me nuts.:dizzy:

My guess would be Roper with that color scheme
 
I have talked with a guy that has an old sears saw. He claims that there is no model number on it that he can find. It has a 17 or 18 inch bar on it. It is white on top and has blue sides. It has the oil and fuel filler caps on the top. The clutch cover says "power sharp" and "bolt action" on it. I can't get over there until friday. Anyone have a clue what this thing might be? It's driving me nuts.:dizzy:

Yes as was said, it sounds like an older Roper 3.7, the newer ones were Red and White. From what I've read on here they're a decent saw for the age, very torquey.
 
You guys keep putting the Roper pictures up here and I'm going to fix ya's.

I'll send you one just like the last one pictured, make you fix the dang thing and then see if you ever want to post a picture of one of them again.:ices_rofl::ices_rofl::rock:
 
Latest development. After pulling my hair out I threw out 1 month old gas and picked up some fresh gas. Also changed filter which I think was the culprit. Runs now but at idle if you put it on its side(recoil side down) it dies. Did it even after changing carbs. Guess I'm going to have to tear into it. Worst part is I had it sold and now have to offer the buyer his money back ,as I can't in good conscience, send it to him as it is. Too bad because it sold for way more than it should have. I did offer to send him another one I have and refund him some money for the inconvenience. I imagine there must be an air leak somewhere in saw for it to die on its side. Oh well live and learn.

I watched your saw Bob, a looker for sure! At least your being honest. Sounds like a seal on the flywheel or pto side. Its not that big of a job too which is good. What are you gonna do with it now? I'm sure once you fix it it will sell high again, if you decide to do that.
 
You guys keep putting the Roper pictures up here and I'm going to fix ya's.

I'll send you one just like the last one pictured, make you fix the dang thing and then see if you ever want to post a picture of one of them again.:ices_rofl::ices_rofl::rock:

:agree2:
UGHHHH ropers!
Let me put things right here.
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=Picture006.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/Picture006.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
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