redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would certainly be interested.
Thanks, Bob!
Chris, send me your email. I scanned manual but don't see how I can attach it to a PM or Social group. Any ideas?
Bob
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Chris, send me your email. I scanned manual but don't see how I can attach it to a PM or Social group. Any ideas?
Bob
cjcocn
Tree Freak
Bob
As far as I know there is no way to attach a file in a PM or in a Social Group.
I will PM you my email.
Thanks
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
mike you should be getting them either tommorrow or wednesday
also i have some poulan parts in the .99 cent catalog for example part # s 530032021- Bearing For S25DA
530024528 - isolater for 3700 PP395 and maybe others
530019047 -
530023079 - Automatic oiler Gear for a 306A saw only have 1 retails for $ 18.00 have it on the site but it is reduced to $ 5.99 still cheaper than paying 18.00 for one
530023404 - muffler screen unknown models
530019051- S25DA crankcase Seal
there will be more
sometime this week
the micro xxv pts and condenser sets reduced to $ 2.95 each have 5 of them on hand
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rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Calvin,
Thanks for sending the filters.
It sure would be handy to know what the parts you are running on the specials fit.
I am not as smart as most of the Poulan guys on here and the numbers don't mean much to me.
But if your description said.........Clutch bearing for 3400-3700.....that would perk my ears up real quick.
Mike
.
Thanks for sending the filters.
It sure would be handy to know what the parts you are running on the specials fit.
I am not as smart as most of the Poulan guys on here and the numbers don't mean much to me.
But if your description said.........Clutch bearing for 3400-3700.....that would perk my ears up real quick.
Mike
.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Dayton 4Z251A
Well CAD hit again. Picked up a Dayton on Ebay a few minutes ago. With this saw I believe I have all the rebadged Poulan 3400's. Now have a Craftsman, a Skil 1641 and now the Dayton. Are there any other rebadged 3400's I"m not aware of? Soon as I get it I'll post a picture ,though I 'm going to wait for cooler weather to tear it down. This Texas weather is killing me!
Bob
Well CAD hit again. Picked up a Dayton on Ebay a few minutes ago. With this saw I believe I have all the rebadged Poulan 3400's. Now have a Craftsman, a Skil 1641 and now the Dayton. Are there any other rebadged 3400's I"m not aware of? Soon as I get it I'll post a picture ,though I 'm going to wait for cooler weather to tear it down. This Texas weather is killing me!
Bob
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't remember if they were still making the Western Auto that late or not.
Allis Chalmers saws ended with the 306-245 I believe.
I think there were some Canadian "proprietary" saws on that platform.
Seems there might have been a Wizard 3400, but don't hold me to it.
Allis Chalmers ended with the 306 I'm pretty sure of.
I hope it turns out good for you. I thought about that one myself. If it's top end is good , then that was a good price.
I just recieved a Dayton 2Z970 (S25CVA) today myself. Needs some TLC but it will be fine.
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is one of my rare poulans I have that I drove to the twin cities to buy about 6-7 yrs ago. I made a trailer to mount it to so that it holds my chunks and keeps me from bending over. This dude runs like a top and rarely finds rounds that it can't bust. I have used many splitters and this is the best set up yet. Unless of course you've got thousands to blow on one.
<a href="http://s493.photobucket.com/albums/rr293/ms460woodchuck/?action=view¤t=saws015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr293/ms460woodchuck/saws015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Anybodyelse got one of these little gems?
<a href="http://s493.photobucket.com/albums/rr293/ms460woodchuck/?action=view¤t=saws015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr293/ms460woodchuck/saws015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Anybodyelse got one of these little gems?
lawnmowertech37
Addicted to ArboristSite
nope dont have one never seen one like that before i do notice something that engine is a 4 or a 5 hp tecumseh engine looks like the carb can need a cleaning and a new muffler
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
It is a 5 hp tech. It came with a briggs but it puked like most briggs that I have owned. It starts on the 1st pull every time cold or warm. I know it needs a muffler but I wear ear plugs so it really does not bother me.
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wigglesworth
Booned
That is just like mine I bought a couple of weeks ago, except it isnt a poulan. Same tank and valve and everything, just a black cylinder. Mine is a montgomery ward, but they are made by Ditier (sp?). So far so good with mine, I loaded up a nice size piece of hickory and it pushed thru it no prob. Mine is fixing to get an upgrade though, I just got an old trailer today Im gonna bolt her to.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Poulan 3000
Got my 3000 put back together and running. Starts and runs real good and I'm pleased. However I've never seen a saw go through bar oil so fast and leak all over the place. I've turned down the oil adjustment screw but once saw is off it still leaks out of the oil outlet hole. Is this common to this model saw? Need to put back together my PP305( essentially same saw) and will be curious to see if oil leaking is also an issue.
Got my 3000 put back together and running. Starts and runs real good and I'm pleased. However I've never seen a saw go through bar oil so fast and leak all over the place. I've turned down the oil adjustment screw but once saw is off it still leaks out of the oil outlet hole. Is this common to this model saw? Need to put back together my PP305( essentially same saw) and will be curious to see if oil leaking is also an issue.
Bob, I don't know that much about that series of saw's but my first guess is the plastic line from the oiler to the bar mount on the case maybe broken inside the tank. That would leave a open hole from the tank to the oiler hole. Check and make sure the cotter pin is in the vent hole in the side of the case also.
Let me know what you find.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yea., Mark I thought about the cotter pin in the vent hole and will check it. I believe the plastic line is intact as I blew air through it and it seemed to work okay. Because the oil feed line isn't attached to the oil pump but relies on a tight seal between the pump and saw body, I'm guessing vacuum inside the tank is causing the oil to continue to drip out of the oil discharge line. Beats me but I'll keep you posted.
I'm not so sure by just blowing air in one end of the tube that you could tell that. If you blow air in it and it was broken it would just go into the tank and then back through the other side of the broken line anyway. Take a really small wire and fish though one end or the other and see if it comes out the other end of the tube to be sure.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Will do. By the way I think the bar that came with saw is all wrong. The oil holes on the bar are way above the oil output hole on the saw. Don't see how oil can get to bar. I think I need a taperred tip bar. Its a Windsor bar with C50 with a upside down A. Also 6 50 16 UXL 50.
Bob
4000 is finished!
the saw is done, torn apart, cleaned, painted, carb kit, recoil spring, pulley and rope, new plug, tyon line, new fuel filter, and all put back together. the comp is about 130#s, and good spark. I fired up on the 4th pull without priming the carb, then stalled and died. cant get it to start have turned h-l screws in and out no luck. alot of gas coming thru and dripping down the exhaust. any ideas?
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws102.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws102.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws099.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws099.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws103.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws103.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
the saw is done, torn apart, cleaned, painted, carb kit, recoil spring, pulley and rope, new plug, tyon line, new fuel filter, and all put back together. the comp is about 130#s, and good spark. I fired up on the 4th pull without priming the carb, then stalled and died. cant get it to start have turned h-l screws in and out no luck. alot of gas coming thru and dripping down the exhaust. any ideas?
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws102.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws102.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws099.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws099.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view¤t=saws103.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws103.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
HimWill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sounds like you need to go back into the carb and check your metering lever.Usually the gas flowing freely means the needle valve isn't closing properly,either from a little debris in the seat or the lever height is incorrect.
That's what i thought, at least I don't have to take the carb off to do that. The rebuild kit comes with the new metering valve but not a new lever. the lever was gummed up pretty good but i soaked it for 8 hours, then sprayed it.it moved smooth. Ill check it again though.
