Nik's Poulan Thread

[stubnail67]

anyone know the age?

hey ya all been looking at this saw guy says its 50 years old can this be that old??? Im hoping one of ya all can look at the pics and tell me guy wants 75 bucks and its not run in years he has not let me know what the compression is etc!!! hear are some pics 75 seems kinda high in rough shape and not running to me anyways ... hope someone can id its age i dont have any serial numbers yet thanks paul!

 

[Mastermind]

hey ya all been looking at this saw guy says its 50 years old can this be that old??? Im hoping one of ya all can look at the pics and tell me guy wants 75 bucks and its not run in years he has not let me know what the compression is etc!!! hear are some pics 75 seems kinda high in rough shape and not running to me anyways ... hope someone can id its age i dont have any serial numbers yet thanks paul!

Sears colored Poulan 25DA, I think, if that's not right we will know soon. LOL

Made in the early '70s. I have a few of those that need some good pistons.

 

[stubnail67]

mastermind

yea i know its a rebadge poulan im just thinking its not 50 years old witout a serial number from the guy i cant look it up i figured modified mark might.. or another member might know within a couple of years ....ive been trying to find the 25s in different colors and such i was thinking it was about 30 maybe 35 years old???? ya say it could be 40 years old if it was from the 70s !!!!!!!!! UPDATE ok so i talked to the guy he is a fire cracker at 72 you said he bought it new in geensburough in 1962 that makes it 48 wow I want it just cant pay 75 bucks for it maybe i can work with him thats amazing!!!!he is only an hour away i gotta meet this old boy he is on the ball!!! good for him! said he would get me a comp test soon.. i said ya dont have to bud i have 2 saws i bought new 15 years ago that still run i cant imagine 48 years!!!! Crazy man!!!!!

 

[rms61moparman]

Well what are some common problems? Any pictures of muffler mods maybe a dual port one? Is 50:1 with echo powerblend ok to run or do i need to run 40:1? Hp rating? As far as preventative maintence is it any different then a modern saw? How is the oiler?


Sorry for all the questions but im curious this will be my first "Real" saw.

The most common problem with these is the fuel lines and tank vent.
It is a 60-61 cc with GREAT power, the automatic oiler with manual over-ride that ALL saws should be required to have and decent antivibe. (The best there was in its day)
As for hp, I'm not sure but I can tell you unequivocally that they will run with ANY 60cc saw of their day and the vast majority of what is available today.
There are a plethora of muff mods out there from simply drilling a couple of holes in the muff to the quasar being the "ModifiedMark copy of a 4200 muffler". The main thing is to open the baffle holes inside and remove or replace the spark screen.

You can run it on the 50:1 mix you are using. I don't but many do with acceptable results.

Preventive maint.- Buy good fuel and keep it clean. Run it dry if you are going to let it sit unused for a long period. Keep the fuel and air filter clean, the chain sharp and run it like you stole it!!!


Mike

 

[briantutt]

hey ya all been looking at this saw guy says its 50 years old can this be that old??? Im hoping one of ya all can look at the pics and tell me guy wants 75 bucks and its not run in years he has not let me know what the compression is etc!!! hear are some pics 75 seems kinda high in rough shape and not running to me anyways ... hope someone can id its age i dont have any serial numbers yet thanks paul!

That looks exactly like my Poulan S25DA but a different color.

 

[rms61moparman]

hey ya all been looking at this saw guy says its 50 years old can this be that old??? Im hoping one of ya all can look at the pics and tell me guy wants 75 bucks and its not run in years he has not let me know what the compression is etc!!! hear are some pics 75 seems kinda high in rough shape and not running to me anyways ... hope someone can id its age i dont have any serial numbers yet thanks paul!

$75.00 is WAY too high on that saw!!!
There are a couple of near mint ones on the "BAY" right now.
It isn't near 50 yet but is probably around 35.
Those saws, in that condition, are quite often free for the taking!!!


Mike

 

[stubnail67]

$75.00 is WAY too high on that saw!!!
There are a couple of near mint ones on the "BAY" right now.
It isn't near 50 yet but is probably around 35.
Those saws, in that condition, are quite often free for the taking!!!


Mike

yea i agree with all ya said.... i wouldnt want to pay over 40 ya know it needs new lines carb build etc... the old boy emailed me says he bought it in 62 new that makes it 48 wow thats crazy man!!!! this guy is on line at 72 thats awsome man im looking forward to meetin him if i can get him down on price ???? ya think 40 is fair to him and me????

 

[PLMCRZY]

The most common problem with these is the fuel lines and tank vent.
It is a 60-61 cc with GREAT power, the automatic oiler with manual over-ride that ALL saws should be required to have and decent antivibe. (The best there was in its day)
As for hp, I'm not sure but I can tell you unequivocally that they will run with ANY 60cc saw of their day and the vast majority of what is available today.
There are a plethora of muff mods out there from simply drilling a couple of holes in the muff to the quasar being the "ModifiedMark copy of a 4200 muffler". The main thing is to open the baffle holes inside and remove or replace the spark screen.

You can run it on the 50:1 mix you are using. I don't but many do with acceptable results.

Preventive maint.- Buy good fuel and keep it clean. Run it dry if you are going to let it sit unused for a long period. Keep the fuel and air filter clean, the chain sharp and run it like you stole it!!!


Mike

Can you explain more on the automatic oiler/ manual override. As far as porting is there a big gain? How would it handle a 24" bar and chain? Also how do i find the proper oil adjustment?

Thanks for all the answers!

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Can you explain more on the automatic oiler/ manual override. As far as porting is there a big gain? How would it handle a 24" bar and chain? Also how do i find the proper oil adjustment?

Thanks for all the answers!

Oiler will oil automatically but when in the big wood you can push the oiler lever to produce more oil on the chain which is a good thing. I don't know why they ever did away with this feature.

24'' bar would be no problem for it.

as far as porting there is some guys on here that have very good results porting these style of saws.

 

[OhioGregg]

Can you explain more on the automatic oiler/ manual override. As far as porting is there a big gain? How would it handle a 24" bar and chain? Also how do i find the proper oil adjustment?

Thanks for all the answers!

I forgot to mention the oiler preveously, They have auto oiling (non-adjustable), although I have heard that there were some early ones that did. But, like MS460Woodchuck said, I don't know why they stopped making saws with the added manual oiler. All saws should have that feature. First saw I ran without it, I didn't know what to do with my thumb. Was always trying to pump an oiler that wasn't there. lol

Gregg,

 

[PLMCRZY]

Well thanks guys i think thats it for all the questions, ill post some pictures when i get it home and put the new b&c on it

 

[67 Mustang]

yea i agree with all ya said.... i wouldnt want to pay over 40 ya know it needs new lines carb build etc... the old boy emailed me says he bought it in 62 new that makes it 48 wow thats crazy man!!!! this guy is on line at 72 thats awsome man im looking forward to meetin him if i can get him down on price ???? ya think 40 is fair to him and me????

IMO 40 bucks is still too high for a saw in that condition. The yellow Craftsman saws that were rebadged Poulan 25DA/S25DA's sold in the early to mid '70's. One in better looking condition than that went off on eBay today with a starting bid of $4.99 and had no bidders.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=330492012691&si=HE4AWUw9zgVgBqW0vbvkq%252BCz1gE%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

[Modifiedmark]

Can you explain more on the automatic oiler/ manual override. As far as porting is there a big gain? How would it handle a 24" bar and chain? Also how do i find the proper oil adjustment?

Thanks for all the answers!

Do you really need a 24" bar? If not I think a 20" makes some sense on it.

Not that long ago I was cutting some bigger stuff and my 245A took a spell of bad running so I ended up putting the 24" bar off of it on my muffler modded 3700.

It pulled it pretty well actually but I think unless you need the reach you would be happier with a 20" on it.

 

[Mastermind]

No H-200 parts? What are you guys doing with them old big ens???

 

[8433jeff]

:agree2:
How long do you want to keep it? Not against using them, but as we age, we like to enjoy our work. Its your saw, use it the way you see fit, I'd stay at 20".

 

[joe25DA]

The most common problem with these is the fuel lines and tank vent.
It is a 60-61 cc with GREAT power, the automatic oiler with manual over-ride that ALL saws should be required to have and decent antivibe. (The best there was in its day)
As for hp, I'm not sure but I can tell you unequivocally that they will run with ANY 60cc saw of their day and the vast majority of what is available today.
There are a plethora of muff mods out there from simply drilling a couple of holes in the muff to the quasar being the "ModifiedMark copy of a 4200 muffler". The main thing is to open the baffle holes inside and remove or replace the spark screen.

You can run it on the 50:1 mix you are using. I don't but many do with acceptable results.

Preventive maint.- Buy good fuel and keep it clean. Run it dry if you are going to let it sit unused for a long period. Keep the fuel and air filter clean, the chain sharp and run it like you stole it!!!


Mike

:agree2:
I run mine with a 20" bar and have had it bar deep in maple. Fun saw to run with that combo. The 3.7/3700 is as good (or better) than any other 60cc class saw ive seen. I ran it against my BIL's 460 rancher and I out cut that. Id be willing to bet similar results against a 390/391. I also happen to think that the 3400-4000 saws have a great "feel" something the 460 did not have.
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=Picture002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/Picture002.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[rms61moparman]

Can you explain more on the automatic oiler/ manual override. As far as porting is there a big gain? How would it handle a 24" bar and chain? Also how do i find the proper oil adjustment?

Thanks for all the answers!

Clay,

When I pick one of those saw up I hit the manual oiler a couple of times before I even set the choke or flip the ignition on.
That way I KNOW when it fires, there is lube for the chain already there!
I always wonder, with any saw without that feature, how long it actually takes for the system to pressurize and the oil to get to the bar and chain.
My only saw for MANY years was a 3400 and I never pick any saw up to start that my thumb isn't reaching for the manual oiler.
ModifiedMark did a mild woods port and one of his custom mufflers to one of these saws and it pulls like a red georgia mule!
You won't have any reason to feel underpowered running alongside anything in or near its class!

Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

No H-200 parts? What are you guys doing with them old big ens???

Well Randy I myself useally don't even get those old of big uns to begin with.

Wish I could hep ya.

 

[PLMCRZY]

Do you really need a 24" bar? If not I think a 20" makes some sense on it.

Not that long ago I was cutting some bigger stuff and my 245A took a spell of bad running so I ended up putting the 24" bar off of it on my muffler modded 3700.

It pulled it pretty well actually but I think unless you need the reach you would be happier with a 20" on it.

I dunno i just dont want it to be to short. I can noodle longer logs as well.

Btw you have any pictures of your muffler modified 3700? Thanks.

 

[Modifiedmark]

No H-200 parts? What are you guys doing with them old big ens???

I dunno i just dont want it to be to short. I can noodle longer logs as well.

Btw you have any pictures of your muffler modified 3700? Thanks.

Those 3700s don't do well with noodling, that lower handle brace is in the way and thy plug up pretty fast. Try a search of this thread and you will find several pictures of my mufflers.

If you can't find them let me know.