Nik's Poulan Thread

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Yes but don't use the so called oil based enamal from Valspar. I used some in safety yellow on a Mac and watched as the paint ran off of it after some gas was spilled on it.

Picked up a can of Valspar Tractor and implement enamel paint in Allis Chalmers Orange. Read label but it doesn't specity if its oil or water based. No Ace Hardware near me so I settled for Valspar. Will let you know how it turns out and may even test a piece by exposing painted surface to gas.
Bob
 
Picked up a can of Valspar Tractor and implement enamel paint in Allis Chalmers Orange. Read label but it doesn't specity if its oil or water based. No Ace Hardware near me so I settled for Valspar. Will let you know how it turns out and may even test a piece by exposing painted surface to gas.
Bob

Well I think that's OK, I used such on my Super E-Z, but then I clear coated it also. I think you need to give it alot of cure time though.

The oil based was clearly marked as such.
 
end gap

what' s the ring end gap for a poulan 4000 ? the old rings are the thin .63mm thick ones and have like .080" end gap !? the piston is 49mm dia. does that sound right ? the pins look the same thickness as the rings and are almost flush with the piston , so no notching. are these the wrong rings ?
 
what' s the ring end gap for a poulan 4000 ? the old rings are the thin .63mm thick ones and have like .080" end gap !? the piston is 49mm dia. does that sound right ? the pins look the same thickness as the rings and are almost flush with the piston , so no notching. are these the wrong rings ?

End gap seems tight. I'm looking at a ring that I believe came off my old 4000. It is 49.35 mm wide and has an end gap of roughly 5 mm or .21 in. This ring is also approx. .63mm thick. Are you sure the end gap is .080 in? Seems real narrow. Don't have new one so I can't compare.
Bob
 
i checked the ring pins and they are about .050 " dia. so maybe the end gap isn't so bad after all . iv'e got new rings coming so we'll see. i read somewhere the rule of thumb was .003" of end gap per inch of piston dia.? on notched end rings it seems the gap is tighter. the pins are about 90 degrees apart on either side of the intake port of the piston. seems like a short path to lost compression.?
 
i checked the ring pins and they are about .050 " dia. so maybe the end gap isn't so bad after all . iv'e got new rings coming so we'll see. i read somewhere the rule of thumb was .003" of end gap per inch of piston dia.? on notched end rings it seems the gap is tighter. the pins are about 90 degrees apart on either side of the intake port of the piston. seems like a short path to lost compression.?

These old Polan Countervibes(3400, 3700 and 4000) have never had high compression. 140-145 would be real good whereas I've more often seen 130-135. Had one with 120 and ran great. Even heard of some starting and running well @110.
 
sounds good. i'll try your thin base gasket mod. and go with what i get with the new rings. the bore looks pretty clean.
i got an intertec manual from the library, as i'm putting in new seals and bearings.they refer to a 'bearing locator tool',uh oh, i wasn't paying attention when i took out the good bearing. is this something i can make? where do the bearings need to be set ? i also got new thrust washers. seems like the three oil grooves are deeper on the clutch side than the flywheel side. is that right ? it looks like the stepped side of the washer blocks the oil grooves on the flywheel side. that bearing moved outboard and pushed the seal out. i got some green loctite to keep that from happening again

do the thrust washers contact or run on the ends of the main bearings ?
 
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sounds good. i'll try your thin base gasket mod. and go with what i get with the new rings. the bore looks pretty clean.
i got an intertec manual from the library, as i'm putting in new seals and bearings.they refer to a 'bearing locator tool',uh oh, i wasn't paying attention when i took out the good bearing. is this something i can make? where do the bearings need to be set ? i also got new thrust washers. seems like the three oil grooves are deeper on the clutch side than the flywheel side. is that right ? it looks like the stepped side of the washer blocks the oil grooves on the flywheel side. that bearing moved outboard and pushed the seal out. i got some green loctite to keep that from happening again.

You are referring to a POulan 4000 Countervibe, right? I'm not aware of any oil grooves on the crankshaft. The thrust washers, if I'm correct, are to reduce the in and out movement of the crankshaft. Both should be identical. There is a special tool to set the new crankbearings but I use a socket and insert them from the inside of the case half. They go in about .050 below the inside rim of the crankshaft hole. Us the other side as a guide. I put in the crankseals after I've assembled the two halfs. I've tried it prior to assembling the halves but found the the crankshaft tends to push out the rubber gasket ruining the seal. Again the oil system isn't gear driven but pressure driven thus has no connection to the crankshaft. If I've misunderstood your comments let me know.
 
poulan 4000

that's what i needed, how deep to set them. i was refering to the 3 indents cast into the crankcase halves around the main bearing holes.they look like oil ways to me. i was concerned about fuel mix getting by the thrust washers & into the main bearings.
i can see on the old thrust washers where they were in contact with the main bearings. sounds like a good tip on the seals.
i like this saw, wanna hear it run! will keep you posted. thanks !
 
that's what i needed, how deep to set them. i was refering to the 3 indents cast into the crankcase halves around the main bearing holes.they look like oil ways to me. i was concerned about fuel mix getting by the thrust washers & into the main bearings.
i can see on the old thrust washers where they were in contact with the main bearings. sounds like a good tip on the seals.
i like this saw, wanna hear it run! will keep you posted. thanks !

Yea, you shouldn't have a problem if you put thrust washers on with the flat side against the crank... good luck. By the way, the crank seals should end up flush or slightly inside the hase half crank openning. I also set these with a socket and hammer(gently).
 
Anyone know the ring gap and crankshaft end play specs for a micro 25?

I'm hearing more and more about ring gap and its something I don't even consider. I presume if you get the correct rings you're good to go. Not like a car or truck engine. As far as end play. a little in/out play is fine. A lot of Poulans have some. Its radial play(side to side) you don't want.
 
I'm hearing more and more about ring gap and its something I don't even consider. I presume if you get the correct rings you're good to go. Not like a car or truck engine. As far as end play. a little in/out play is fine. A lot of Poulans have some. Its radial play(side to side) you don't want.

Sure its important, if your using old rings, its good to check to see if their in spec. If not in spec time to replace.
 

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