Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

You are correct Brad. New designation is 530010247.
Bob

As a followup, my IPL shows a winter filter as #530010527. No picture of it however in schematic. Maybe that's what your source is referring to.

 

[redunshee]

8500 on Ebay

I'm sure some of you have seen this. Nice looking but pricey.
Bob

 

[blsnelling]

Can you guys confirm that a 8500 filter is a direct replacement on a 5200? The mounting looks the same, but looks wider.

Here's a 8500 filter.

 

[dave76]

That's a good looking saw. I checked Mike Acre's site, but there wasn't much info on the 401. In appearance this looks a lot like the 361, but I assume it's got a bigger engine? Are there any other differences?

Same saw basically just 4.0 cu. in. compared to 3.6 cu in for the 361

 

[CGC4200]

21" hard tip for 4200/5400

I think I have one with a little surface rust & a 72SG? chain that fits. It will
fit 2 saws I have, but think I have a spare 20" & serviceable chains anyways.

 

[PLMCRZY]

Heres a pic from today had it in some big oak. It did great til we had to noodle....it didnt like it at all, i need a 8500 or something with a modified clutch cover so i can noodle alot better.

I have a few questions,

When it sits there and idles it loads up after a good 45 secs even if you give it some throttle it will die. I figured it was normal but ive leaned it out quite a bit on the low end and it still does it.

After it runs out of gas it takes atleast 5 pulls to get it going again, is this normal?

It has alot of carbon on the exhaust side, i pull the jug then just polish up the port? My buddy has like an abrasive sponge looking thing on the end of a dremel would that work?

Who has made a custom airfilter for one? Im thinking like a short bent rubber elbow for the intake then drill a hole on the top of the cover for a K&N style filter.

Anyone have a picture of one with a full wrap? Thinking about making one, it would be so beneficial in so many ways.

 

[blsnelling]

Can you guys confirm that a 8500 filter is a direct replacement on a 5200? The mounting looks the same, but looks wider.

Here's a 8500 filter.

If this can be confirmed, I found several new filters.

 

[67 Mustang]

Can you guys confirm that a 8500 filter is a direct replacement on a 5200? The mounting looks the same, but looks wider.

Here's a 8500 filter.

It's not a direct fit, Brad, but I theorize it can be easily adapted. For one thing, the mounting nuts are mounted into the AF and flared on the underside of the 8500 AF. The initial problem is that it won't pull the AF down onto the carb tightly on the 5200. I believe the flute/flare could be cut off the mounting nut with a dremel cutter and grind enough off the remaining barrel of the nut to allow AF to pull down tightly on the carb. Haven't done it yet since I haven't needed one. Sorry I don't have pics but I had it in mind for a future education thread when I got around to it. Hope this is a bit clearer than mud. Would help if I at least had a pic of the underside of an AF. May be able to accommodate tomorrow, but it's too cold to go out and get one tomorrow.

 

[blsnelling]

It's not a direct fit, Brad, but I theorize it can be easily adapted. For one thing, the mounting nuts are mounted into the AF and flared on the underside of the 8500 AF. The initial problem is that it won't pull the AF down onto the carb tightly on the 5200. I believe the flute/flare could be cut off the mounting nut with a dremel cutter and grind enough off the remaining barrel of the nut to allow AF to pull down tightly on the carb. Haven't done it yet since I haven't needed one. Sorry I don't have pics but I had it in mind for a future education thread when I got around to it. Hope this is a bit clearer than mud. Would help if I at least had a pic of the underside of an AF. May be able to accommodate tomorrow, but it's too cold to go out and get one tomorrow.

What about the dimensions of the filter itself? Will it fit under the cover?

 

[67 Mustang]

What about the dimensions of the filter itself? Will it fit under the cover?

Not absolutely sure about that. I'd have to do some measuring.

 

[stubnail67]

i was reading!!!

So i was reading in the 25da srvc manual.... and it says you have to heat a replacment piston if you find one... to 200 degrees so you can put the pin in??? how do you not burn your self? is this to expand the hole? if it is why not freezze the pin in the freezer to make it contract? wouldnt thaT DO the same thing? ive done this with other parts that are a tight fit and its worked auto parts not chainsaw.... is this what ya all do and do you just wear gloves? id rather handle a cold part i think LOL...sorry i have not rebuilt a saw yet wanting to learn any good books that ya all an recommend...

 

[stubnail67]

oh and

oh and no wise cracks !!! you can read???

 

[Modifiedmark]

Dead serious..... The first time I tried it I was able to work it in about 3" into the tank and even when pulling on it with needle nose could not get it to slide through the opening.

I spent 4 hours looking for some new line thinking that mine was somehow a bit too large. I finally found some around 7:00 on a Friday night at a hobby shop for use in RC airplanes. It was the same size, but just a bit more supple than what I was using.

Even cutting it at an angle, lubing it up good and using a wire inside the tube it was still a fight to get it in. After two attempts I was able to get it done.

Perhaps I should have lightly cleaned the hole with a drill before I started. On the first tube I used you could see small cuts on the outside where I had managed to pull it in a bit at a time.

By the way, even took it to a small engine mechanic friend of mine and he gave up after 20 minutes...

Ok then that makes more sense, you were using the wrong size line, not the saws fault and its still very easy if you use the right size line! Dummy!

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

It's not a direct fit, Brad, but I theorize it can be easily adapted. For one thing, the mounting nuts are mounted into the AF and flared on the underside of the 8500 AF. The initial problem is that it won't pull the AF down onto the carb tightly on the 5200. I believe the flute/flare could be cut off the mounting nut with a dremel cutter and grind enough off the remaining barrel of the nut to allow AF to pull down tightly on the carb. Haven't done it yet since I haven't needed one. Sorry I don't have pics but I had it in mind for a future education thread when I got around to it. Hope this is a bit clearer than mud. Would help if I at least had a pic of the underside of an AF. May be able to accommodate tomorrow, but it's too cold to go out and get one tomorrow.

What I did on one of the 5400's I had was just took some thick cork gasket material and cut it to fit between the carb and filter. May not be the best engineered design out there but hey it worked fine keeping dirt out of the carb. (Just another suggestion Brad)

 

[CGC4200]

heating pistons

Can you sneak it into the oven?
One of my neighbors was taking a working toaster oven to the dump a few
years ago, offered it for free, I passed & regretted it later.
Freezing is supposed to work too.
Wear gloves, that should prevent burns or frostbite either way.

 

[Modifiedmark]

That's a good looking saw. I checked Mike Acre's site, but there wasn't much info on the 401. In appearance this looks a lot like the 361, but I assume it's got a bigger engine? Are there any other differences?

Like you said theres not much info out on those and I have not found much more myself. I "Think" the 401 is actually a 400 with a power sharp setup. The power sharp on this one was removed before I got it. Seems thats why there were so many different 200 series models as well, one change in the saw and they gave it a different model #

Like was said this is very much like a 361 but with a bigger engine.

Heres a pic from today had it in some big oak. It did great til we had to noodle....it didnt like it at all, i need a 8500 or something with a modified clutch cover so i can noodle alot better.

I have a few questions,

When it sits there and idles it loads up after a good 45 secs even if you give it some throttle it will die. I figured it was normal but ive leaned it out quite a bit on the low end and it still does it.

After it runs out of gas it takes atleast 5 pulls to get it going again, is this normal?

It has alot of carbon on the exhaust side, i pull the jug then just polish up the port? My buddy has like an abrasive sponge looking thing on the end of a dremel would that work?

Who has made a custom airfilter for one? Im thinking like a short bent rubber elbow for the intake then drill a hole on the top of the cover for a K&N style filter.

Anyone have a picture of one with a full wrap? Thinking about making one, it would be so beneficial in so many ways.

Those saws do not noodle very well and there never going to even with a bigger cover, that lower handle brace clogs up.

As far as loading up, if the L needle is right (should be close to 1 turn out) then you may have a inlet needle problem, either its leaking or the lever is too high.

5 pulls is not a lot if it has been run dry. Try not to run it out, its not good for it.

Be carefull cleaning carbon from the EX port, you can do more harm then good if you get carbon in the cyl.

Just buy a couple new air filters and keep your chains sharp!

I have never seen a full wrap on one but I did see them listed in the parts list for them.

If this can be confirmed, I found several new filters.

Brad, I don't think the 8500 filter will fit in the carb box itself.

 

[blsnelling]

What I did on one of the 5400's I had was just took some thick cork gasket material and cut it to fit between the carb and filter. May not be the best engineered design out there but hey it worked fine keeping dirt out of the carb. (Just another suggestion Brad)

Brad, I don't think the 8500 filter will fit in the carb box itself.

So Woodchucker, did you just run the saw without the cover on?

 

[redunshee]

So i was reading in the 25da srvc manual.... and it says you have to heat a replacment piston if you find one... to 200 degrees so you can put the pin in??? how do you not burn your self? is this to expand the hole? if it is why not freezze the pin in the freezer to make it contract? wouldnt thaT DO the same thing? ive done this with other parts that are a tight fit and its worked auto parts not chainsaw.... is this what ya all do and do you just wear gloves? id rather handle a cold part i think LOL...sorry i have not rebuilt a saw yet wanting to learn any good books that ya all an recommend...

Yea, you need to wear gloves, for sure. I imagine you could freeze the pin but you have to get it out of the rod first. Heating the piston allows you to remove the wristpin. You could then freeze it to replace it.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

So Woodchucker, did you just run the saw without the cover on?

Brad I'm trying to think back 4-5 yrs but my memory is telling me that it worked but one of my 5400's also had a top cover that was partially broke and that could very well have been that one.

 

[dave76]

So i was reading in the 25da srvc manual.... and it says you have to heat a replacment piston if you find one... to 200 degrees so you can put the pin in??? how do you not burn your self? is this to expand the hole? if it is why not freezze the pin in the freezer to make it contract? wouldnt thaT DO the same thing? ive done this with other parts that are a tight fit and its worked auto parts not chainsaw.... is this what ya all do and do you just wear gloves? id rather handle a cold part i think LOL...sorry i have not rebuilt a saw yet wanting to learn any good books that ya all an recommend...

Yes you do need heat, and no putting it in the freezer won't help, I tryed that method. Here's what I did, I took an old piston pin and lapped it until it slid in an out of the piston with ease, now you have a piston pin centering tool. Just start heating the piston with your "new" tool in the pin bore, start putting the new pin in, hold pressure pushing but not excessive pressure or when the piston heats up enough the new pin will fly right through, ask me how I know, keep an eye while it's going through not to go too far as you have to install the circlip. Not as hard as it seems, just gotta do it. Hehe, try putting piston on a Micro with the top rod bearings, what a PITA.