Nik's Poulan Thread

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drive it out?

redunshee said:
Yea, you need to wear gloves, for sure. I imagine you could freeze the pin but you have to get it out of the rod first. Heating the piston allows you to remove the wristpin. You could then freeze it to replace it.
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you mean the old one? cant ya drive the old one out?after you get the lil keeper clips out i mean .... I have all these parts saws think im going to buy a book on it take my time and try to do one....the saws have scored pistons anyways so im not losing anything and gainging experiance right? LOL...to bad the pistons and rebuild kits are not plentiful.... maybe i should do a few new style saws first.... lord knows im good at trying to force things and seem to break stuff!!! my older brother was the guy that used his head and i just manhandled stuff!!!! I have alot more to read.... whats the best book to get are most ya all mechanics out there? im in construction and lawn and tree on the side for years ya how did ya alls first rime go redoing a saw or boat weedeatr etc go???
 
dave76 said:
Yes you do need heat, and no putting it in the freezer won't help, I tryed that method. Here's what I did, I took an old piston pin and lapped it until it slid in an out of the piston with ease, now you have a piston pin centering tool. Just start heating the piston with your "new" tool in the pin bore, start putting the new pin in, hold pressure pushing but not excessive pressure or when the piston heats up enough the new pin will fly right through, ask me how I know, keep an eye while it's going through not to go too far as you have to install the circlip. Not as hard as it seems, just gotta do it. Hehe, try putting piston on a Micro with the top rod bearings, what a PITA.
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well that sounds pretty simple.... thanks dave to bad you cant do it without as big a center tool and have one of the keeps on the bottom side it would tell ya when to stop pushing... cool man i just usually have to do stuff a few times and hate to break or mess up stuff thats hard to find... i may practice it on a few other junk saws stop by a mower shop and buy a few gassed ones to play on!!!
 
stubnail67 said:
well that sounds pretty simple.... thanks dave to bad you cant do it without as big a center tool and have one of the keeps on the bottom side it would tell ya when to stop pushing... cool man i just usually have to do stuff a few times and hate to break or mess up stuff thats hard to find... i may practice it on a few other junk saws stop by a mower shop and buy a few gassed ones to play on!!!
Click to expand...

Thats a good idea man that'll never hurt and you'll learn a lot.
 
thats a fact!!!

dave76 said:
Thats a good idea man that'll never hurt and you'll learn a lot.
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yea think i will i need to get my shed slash shop built soon... my lil work table is in the yard with mulch on the ground ...when parts hit the mulch i have to get out my magnet or go buy more....those lil carb springs lmao those are hard to see i lay a old towel down it works most of the time but if a part flys in the mulch its uually kissed to god!!!
 
Modifiedmark said:
Like you said theres not much info out on those and I have not found much more myself. I "Think" the 401 is actually a 400 with a power sharp setup. The power sharp on this one was removed before I got it. Seems thats why there were so many different 200 series models as well, one change in the saw and they gave it a different model #

Like was said this is very much like a 361 but with a bigger engine.







Those saws do not noodle very well and there never going to even with a bigger cover, that lower handle brace clogs up.

As far as loading up, if the L needle is right (should be close to 1 turn out) then you may have a inlet needle problem, either its leaking or the lever is too high.

5 pulls is not a lot if it has been run dry. Try not to run it out, its not good for it.

Be carefull cleaning carbon from the EX port, you can do more harm then good if you get carbon in the cyl.

Just buy a couple new air filters and keep your chains sharp!

I have never seen a full wrap on one but I did see them listed in the parts list for them.









Brad, I don't think the 8500 filter will fit in the carb box itself.
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How do i check the inlet needle? Is there a write up?

Ill just leave the carbon in there then.

The chain is always sharp just this darn dirty wood. I cleaned it up today after i cut since i wont be using it for a while. When i took the airfilter off the bracket that holds the carb on had dust in it and around it. Carb didnt have any in it. I just hope the new filter does the trick.

Thanks.
 
stubnail67 said:
you mean the old one? cant ya drive the old one out?after you get the lil keeper clips out i mean .... I have all these parts saws think im going to buy a book on it take my time and try to do one....the saws have scored pistons anyways so im not losing anything and gainging experiance right? LOL...to bad the pistons and rebuild kits are not plentiful.... maybe i should do a few new style saws first.... lord knows im good at trying to force things and seem to break stuff!!! my older brother was the guy that used his head and i just manhandled stuff!!!! I have alot more to read.... whats the best book to get are most ya all mechanics out there? im in construction and lawn and tree on the side for years ya how did ya alls first rime go redoing a saw or boat weedeatr etc go???
Click to expand...

If you plan to drive it out make sure your crankshaft is braced so it doesn't bend. The pins on the 3400-4000 series saws is in very tight and if you don't brace the crank or piston you'll ruin the crankshaft. A few guys made up a tool for this which works very well. I use a punch after bracing the piston.
 
ClayKann101 said:
How do i check the inlet needle? Is there a write up?

Ill just leave the carbon in there then.

The chain is always sharp just this darn dirty wood. I cleaned it up today after i cut since i wont be using it for a while. When i took the airfilter off the bracket that holds the carb on had dust in it and around it. Carb didnt have any in it. I just hope the new filter does the trick.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

You need to take the carb apart. Guess you knew that. Check to see that when you depress the metering lever the metering needle moves freely and doesn't bind. If it does replace it with the one provided in the rebuild kit. Set the metering lever even with the carb body for your 3700. Marks right. Try not to run your saw dry. The increase in speed means its leaning out and eventually you'll score the piston. If you plan to store saws for a while, start saw, empty mix from saw and let it idle until it dies. It won't speed up and you'll drain fuel from carb.
 
barneyrb said:
I spoke with the guy and whoever bought it gave full price.
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I've bought from him before. Pretty good stuff. Price was steep but if I didn't have a 5200 I might have considered it Really thinking of an 066 or maybe a 2100. Likely a 2100 as I don't believe there is much diff. between my 288 and an 066. However, I could be wrong.
 
redunshee said:
I've bought from him before. Pretty good stuff. Price was steep but if I didn't have a 5200 I might have considered it Really thinking of an 066 or maybe a 2100. Likely a 2100 as I don't believe there is much diff. between my 288 and an 066. However, I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

I had a price in mind and was going to offer $500 shipped but it was gone.
 
Poulan 306A

Saw arrived. I added mix and it started right up. Idled great and ran out very well. Have to get used to these governor carbs as it doesn't run out well out of the wood. Stick some wood to it and it kicks in and runs fine. Not fast but a surprising amount of torque. Pushed hard on a 12" hardwood log and it didn't bog down at all. Its a little scruffed up but not very badly. Only thing missing(same for my 245 and comparable Dayton) is the duckbill valve is missing, Consequently put the saw on its side and fuel spurts out of the cap. Oh well, that's an old saw for you.
 

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