redunshee
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Are these weedeater weedwackers or some other brand. Maybe can google them to find the pART.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Are these weedeater weedwackers or some other brand. Maybe can google them to find the pART.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
245A frustrations
Well I've been trying with no success to pressure/vacuum test this saw. Continually getting air leaks around the reed valve adaptor(between adaptor and crankcase) that the carb attaches to. I've made three differant gaskets and it still leaks. Even resorted to adding Dirko HT to the gasket and crankcase but it still leaks. Both surfaces look smooth but I used the Dirko to hopefully fill any imperfections. No dice. Has anyone used a differant procedure? Reason I'm doing this, is saw doesn't return to idle quickly and as I lean out the Lo speed screw(turn it in), the rpm's keep increasing with no reduction in engine speed at all. To my thinking that means air leak.
Bob
Well I've been trying with no success to pressure/vacuum test this saw. Continually getting air leaks around the reed valve adaptor(between adaptor and crankcase) that the carb attaches to. I've made three differant gaskets and it still leaks. Even resorted to adding Dirko HT to the gasket and crankcase but it still leaks. Both surfaces look smooth but I used the Dirko to hopefully fill any imperfections. No dice. Has anyone used a differant procedure? Reason I'm doing this, is saw doesn't return to idle quickly and as I lean out the Lo speed screw(turn it in), the rpm's keep increasing with no reduction in engine speed at all. To my thinking that means air leak.
Bob
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
good info!!!!!
good morning ya all! i see this guy on ebay he always has the nice 25sda's... any ways i was talking with him about the solid state coils and swapping them and i was havin a hard time!!! he emailed me perfect instructions on what to do .. I had given it thought but was unsure how! well here is how thought i would pass this along so anybody with this same problem can get an old saw up and running!!!!!!..............................................................................................
No drilling and threading of the cylinder needed. You will need some 1/8" thick x 1/2" wide aluminum bar stock (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.).
Using the old module, you locate the flywheel magnets in the center of the module armature. Then mark a spot on the flywheel and case (I use the oil pump cover) as a timing locator. Next, mount the 2000 coil in the center of the flywheel magnets and align the previous marks. Fabricate the aluminum bar stock to adapt the module mount holes with the cylinder mount holes. Generally, you need to drill two 3/16" holes in the bar stock approximately 1/2" apart. You may need to adjust, but this gets you in the ballpark. Mount the aluminum to the module using appropriately sized machine screws and nuts. Locate the other end of the aluminum over the cylinder mount holes. Shim the module to flywheel (I use a business card as its about 0.010"). Tighten all screws.
This will do it ... I've done this conversion about a dozen times with zero problems.
jrp7329.
this is the guy hope he is one of our members!!!! seems like a great guy !!! and his saws are always nice ima buy one after xmas!!!
good morning ya all! i see this guy on ebay he always has the nice 25sda's... any ways i was talking with him about the solid state coils and swapping them and i was havin a hard time!!! he emailed me perfect instructions on what to do .. I had given it thought but was unsure how! well here is how thought i would pass this along so anybody with this same problem can get an old saw up and running!!!!!!..............................................................................................
No drilling and threading of the cylinder needed. You will need some 1/8" thick x 1/2" wide aluminum bar stock (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.).
Using the old module, you locate the flywheel magnets in the center of the module armature. Then mark a spot on the flywheel and case (I use the oil pump cover) as a timing locator. Next, mount the 2000 coil in the center of the flywheel magnets and align the previous marks. Fabricate the aluminum bar stock to adapt the module mount holes with the cylinder mount holes. Generally, you need to drill two 3/16" holes in the bar stock approximately 1/2" apart. You may need to adjust, but this gets you in the ballpark. Mount the aluminum to the module using appropriately sized machine screws and nuts. Locate the other end of the aluminum over the cylinder mount holes. Shim the module to flywheel (I use a business card as its about 0.010"). Tighten all screws.
This will do it ... I've done this conversion about a dozen times with zero problems.
jrp7329.
this is the guy hope he is one of our members!!!! seems like a great guy !!! and his saws are always nice ima buy one after xmas!!!
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I purchased one of his saws(s25DA) and was very pleased. He even sold me a piston and rings for my S25CVA. Real good guy and thanks for your tip.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
yup
not my tip it was all him but i thought i would try and help anyone else with the same problem i was having!!!!
not my tip it was all him but i thought i would try and help anyone else with the same problem i was having!!!!
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Follow up. Decided to change gasket material. I'm wondering if the stuff 'm using is too thick. Going to try the old paperbag method with cooper coat gasket compound. If it works on cylinders don't see why it shouldn't work in this application. I'll let you know results. Heaven knows I've had the adaptor off so many times once more won't hurt.
Bob
HittinSteel
Addicted to ArboristSite
306A on my local craigs....... barn saw, so not sure of the condition. Assuming I should grab it if the price is right?
I'll take em!
Bob, I was more or less just saying to watch for them that are being scrapped, and grab them off of them. Seems like lots of brands used them.
Yes I have had my share of trouble with those gaskets for some reason. I have tried different types of gasket material as well. Best fix seems to be regular gasket material and give them a thin coat of #2 permatex.
Good luck with the paper bag, seems its best for hauling groceries. See above, all these new sealants but the old standby #2 permatex works best.
306's are great, buy you should have went and got that 245A
HittinSteel
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Mark........ btw, that 245A ad is still up. I should give him a ring.
No, you should offer him $50-$75 for it and go get it!
I mean I would be after it myself but I have 4 of them already.:hmm3grin2orange:
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
uggggg!!!!
well tried the coil mod it worked but heard a rattle after a few seconds cant beleive the saw started so easy... anyways it ripped the aluminum plate????the dude said 1/2 inch stock wont that put it to high??? uggg think i will just wait and buy a parts saw off ebay thats solid state and then i will get the extra parts any ways here is the pic be fore idrilled the holes and tightned it down least i know it was the coil for sure!!!
well tried the coil mod it worked but heard a rattle after a few seconds cant beleive the saw started so easy... anyways it ripped the aluminum plate????the dude said 1/2 inch stock wont that put it to high??? uggg think i will just wait and buy a parts saw off ebay thats solid state and then i will get the extra parts any ways here is the pic be fore idrilled the holes and tightned it down least i know it was the coil for sure!!!
4000 Again
I know many of you guys are probably getting sick of another Poulan 4000 post from me.
But, I can't help myself. Here is the latest one to be put back to use.
I plan on using this one as an everyday work saw. So, I swapped mufflers on this one with my "ModifiedMark muffler". Saw runs excellent! The only thing I want to change at some point is the flywheel. Some monkey broke one of the fins off while trying to work on this at some point. I really can't tell by running it, but still bothers me..lol
Gregg,
I know many of you guys are probably getting sick of another Poulan 4000 post from me.
But, I can't help myself. Here is the latest one to be put back to use.I plan on using this one as an everyday work saw. So, I swapped mufflers on this one with my "ModifiedMark muffler".
Saw runs excellent! The only thing I want to change at some point is the flywheel. Some monkey broke one of the fins off while trying to work on this at some point. I really can't tell by running it, but still bothers me..lol
Gregg,
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
fine saws!
those are some fine saws ohio greg! what cc are those they are in the 029 class right like 56 cc? 60 cc?
those are some fine saws ohio greg! what cc are those they are in the 029 class right like 56 cc? 60 cc?
I know many of you guys are probably getting sick of another Poulan 4000 post from me.
I plan on using this one as an everyday work saw. So, I swapped mufflers on this one with my "ModifiedMark muffler".
Gregg,
Nice Gregg. It must be 4000 season cause I just finished one too! Ill be posting it up later.
Paul,
Nooooo these are not in the farm boss category! Those saws are not commercial/professional grade at all. They use a clamshell engine, all plastic and are 59cc. The 3.7 and 4000 are 61 and 64cc. Both professional saws, bolt on jug and magnesium case. Easily modded and re-buildable.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
got ya wow 61 cc i thought the farmboss was 56 cc??? so i take it the 4000 has dual piston rings??? also????yea post the build on that saw we like build pics!!!!
Last edited:
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
You know me Gregg, I never get tired of looking at nice 4000 pics!
I'd like to pick up a "user" and let Brad have his way with it.
The one he did was one of the most impressive gains I've ever seen!!!
Wonder how one would do "piped"?:hmm3grin2orange:
Mike
I'd like to pick up a "user" and let Brad have his way with it.
The one he did was one of the most impressive gains I've ever seen!!!
Wonder how one would do "piped"?:hmm3grin2orange:
Mike
4000 decals
Dave76,
I just made a set of decals for a 4000 like yours. I'll post a pic of it here. If you want them, just PM me your address, and I'll mail em to ya. They aren't as nice as OEM, but they look better than none at all, or scuffed up ones.
Gregg,
Dave76,
I just made a set of decals for a 4000 like yours. I'll post a pic of it here. If you want them, just PM me your address, and I'll mail em to ya. They aren't as nice as OEM, but they look better than none at all, or scuffed up ones.
Gregg,
Yes Mike, a Snellerized 4000 would be the cats meow, as far as I'm concerned.
But, pipe would get in my way real quick on a "work saw"
But a "GTG Saw" on the other hand...Gregg,
2150 parts
I put a request in the parts swap ....not sure anyone is paying attention to it. I am needing some parts for a 2150. I need the throttle linkage and the plate that goes between the bar and the plastic case. I will buy a parts saw if I have too.
Not sure how I misplaced the parts..too many irons in the fire at once i think
I put a request in the parts swap ....not sure anyone is paying attention to it. I am needing some parts for a 2150. I need the throttle linkage and the plate that goes between the bar and the plastic case. I will buy a parts saw if I have too.
Not sure how I misplaced the parts..too many irons in the fire at once i think
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Dave76,
I just made a set of decals for a 4000 like yours. I'll post a pic of it here. If you want them, just PM me your address, and I'll mail em to ya. They aren't as nice as OEM, but they look better than none at all, or scuffed up ones.
Gregg,
Careful, you could be making few of them. PM sent.
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