Nik's Poulan Thread

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Bo, first off thank you for sharing with us what you have. In dealing with some of these Poulan documents, I have found several times things conflict with each other, and it seems things were not always updated to reflect changes in the models also.

At least it seems the updated manuals never made it to the dealers often enough.

What other documents do you have? I would love to get my hands on that complete manual set you mention from 91. I would love to at least copy them and return them to you.

This Manual Is About 6" Thick Binder. The Chainsaw Section Is About An Inch
Thick. There Are Only 4 Service Manuals for Saws: Micro XXV,1800,2000,
2300AV, And 2300CVA. XXV Series Super XXVDA &SuperXXVCVA.
2700,2800,3000,3300, 285, 305, & 335. 4200,4400,4900,5200,5400,
6900,7700, & 8500. There Was No Manual For The 3400-4000 Saws.
The Rest Of The Info Were Parts Lists. The Only Other Charts Were A Flat
Rate Chart And A Chart For Special Service Tools. There Were Very Few
Service Bulletins In The Manual. I Will Be glad To Send You The Whole Manual
Or Just The Chainsaw Parts To Copy. Most Of The Manual Is Lawnmowers
And Trimmers.
Bo
 
This Manual Is About 6" Thick Binder. The Chainsaw Section Is About An Inch
Thick. There Are Only 4 Service Manuals for Saws: Micro XXV,1800,2000,
2300AV, And 2300CVA. XXV Series Super XXVDA &SuperXXVCVA.
2700,2800,3000,3300, 285, 305, & 335. 4200,4400,4900,5200,5400,
6900,7700, & 8500. There Was No Manual For The 3400-4000 Saws.
The Rest Of The Info Were Parts Lists. The Only Other Charts Were A Flat
Rate Chart And A Chart For Special Service Tools. There Were Very Few
Service Bulletins In The Manual. I Will Be glad To Send You The Whole Manual
Or Just The Chainsaw Parts To Copy. Most Of The Manual Is Lawnmowers
And Trimmers.
Bo

Thanks, PM will be sent to you.
 
Poulan 3400's.......

All, good evening. Thanks for the replies a few days ago. Well, I'm making progress, slowly but surely. The first P3400 that was given to me with the bow bar was running tonight, but my goodness, that carb is tricky! I'm still tinkering with it, I have patience (sometimes), and it's fun. I'll make her growl yet.

I put the handle and trigger assembly on it from the yellow Skil parts saw, and that came out well. Comparing it to the P3400 I bought last week, there are some obvious differences. Because of the bow bar, the drive cover is cast/notched to accommodate the extra girth of the bar. Also, the chain catch below the drive cover is really stout, and accommodates the bow bar via a large offset. This causes the saw to sit at a tilted angle when on a flat surface.

The newer P3400 is pretty clean, with a good amount of paint loss on the handle. The rest is fairly good with pretty good decals. Love that color though! Both saws have the thick rings for what that's worth. Are the carbs usually this temperamental? The new one is a bear too, I imagine from sitting. Does the bow bar set up make the other saw more rare than others? I understand that rare does not necessarily mean more desirable, but this truly is a pretty neat setup and I have not seen another one, yet.

I will post pictures when I can. Have a great week, and take care. Max.:cheers:
 
All, good evening. Thanks for the replies a few days ago. Well, I'm making progress, slowly but surely. The first P3400 that was given to me with the bow bar was running tonight, but my goodness, that carb is tricky! I'm still tinkering with it, I have patience (sometimes), and it's fun. I'll make her growl yet.

I put the handle and trigger assembly on it from the yellow Skil parts saw, and that came out well. Comparing it to the P3400 I bought last week, there are some obvious differences. Because of the bow bar, the drive cover is cast/notched to accommodate the extra girth of the bar. Also, the chain catch below the drive cover is really stout, and accommodates the bow bar via a large offset. This causes the saw to sit at a tilted angle when on a flat surface.

The newer P3400 is pretty clean, with a good amount of paint loss on the handle. The rest is fairly good with pretty good decals. Love that color though! Both saws have the thick rings for what that's worth. Are the carbs usually this temperamental? The new one is a bear too, I imagine from sitting. Does the bow bar set up make the other saw more rare than others? I understand that rare does not necessarily mean more desirable, but this truly is a pretty neat setup and I have not seen another one, yet.

I will post pictures when I can. Have a great week, and take care. Max.:cheers:

ahem .... I understand that you are new here to AS, but ... where are the pics!?!?!?

:D
 
All, good evening. Thanks for the replies a few days ago. Well, I'm making progress, slowly but surely. The first P3400 that was given to me with the bow bar was running tonight, but my goodness, that carb is tricky! I'm still tinkering with it, I have patience (sometimes), and it's fun. I'll make her growl yet.

I put the handle and trigger assembly on it from the yellow Skil parts saw, and that came out well. Comparing it to the P3400 I bought last week, there are some obvious differences. Because of the bow bar, the drive cover is cast/notched to accommodate the extra girth of the bar. Also, the chain catch below the drive cover is really stout, and accommodates the bow bar via a large offset. This causes the saw to sit at a tilted angle when on a flat surface.

The newer P3400 is pretty clean, with a good amount of paint loss on the handle. The rest is fairly good with pretty good decals. Love that color though! Both saws have the thick rings for what that's worth. Are the carbs usually this temperamental? The new one is a bear too, I imagine from sitting. Does the bow bar set up make the other saw more rare than others? I understand that rare does not necessarily mean more desirable, but this truly is a pretty neat setup and I have not seen another one, yet.

I will post pictures when I can. Have a great week, and take care. Max.:cheers:

Walbro HDB-8 carbs are pretty straight forward. Did you clean and/or rebuild it? Initial settings are 1 turn open for Lo and Hi needles. Should start right up. If you cleaned carb remember that metering lever needs to to even with top of carb body.
Bob
 
I joined the Poulan club today with a 4620AVX. That's a 46cc 20" "Poulan Pro" with the toolless bar adjustment system that everyone loves to hate.

I'm not a woodsman but I had a 14" Echo (CS-306) for dealing with tree trimming on my suburban lot. And I had a box elder that was threatening my neighbors house and decided it had to go. I could cut a lot of limbs off it with the Echo (and I did most of the above ground work with a bow saw and unpowered pruning saw - make a man out of me yet!) Anyway, the trunk of this tree was way bigger than I thought I could manage with a 14" bar so I checked out rental options (Makita with 20" bar for about $50 for 4 hours) or a new Poulan Pro on craigslist for $110.

Unfortunately when I got the Poulan home, I found it had no power. :mad: Touch wood and it would stall out. I called the seller up and politely explained the situation. He asked me to bring it back so he could look at it. It turned out that he bought warranty returns and fixed and sold them. Often it was stuff like a new owner dumping the bottle of oil in the saw's fuel tank and then adding gas, so all he had to do was put a proper mix in it, change the plug and he had a virtually new tool to sell. But this one must have had something actually wrong with it. He offered money back or said he would need to order a carb kit and go through the carb. I wanted the saw and he seemed like a decent guy so I went with the carb O/H and return the saw. Today he dropped the saw off and it seems to run just fine. :)

It does seem like takes longer than I expected to go through a 20" log. None of the 10 second times like I see in your videos, but then again, it has a factory safety chain on it and it has not been hot rodded. But it does seem to make a lot more chips and use a lot more gas than the Echo. I think the kerf might be nearly twice as wide (90SG chain vs 33SL.)

The other problem is that he left the idle set too high. With a couple tanks of gas through the saw, it idles fast enough to run the chain. Where is the best place to find the special tool for adjusting idle speed?

Anyway... I've got a Poulan and it's doing the job. It may not be a saw that I'll hand down to my son (he has a 16" Echo anyway) but I think it will meet my very occasional needs around here or I may decide to list it on craigslist.

-hank
 
I joined the Poulan club today with a 4620AVX. That's a 46cc 20" "Poulan Pro" with the toolless bar adjustment system that everyone loves to hate.

I'm not a woodsman but I had a 14" Echo (CS-306) for dealing with tree trimming on my suburban lot. And I had a box elder that was threatening my neighbors house and decided it had to go. I could cut a lot of limbs off it with the Echo (and I did most of the above ground work with a bow saw and unpowered pruning saw - make a man out of me yet!) Anyway, the trunk of this tree was way bigger than I thought I could manage with a 14" bar so I checked out rental options (Makita with 20" bar for about $50 for 4 hours) or a new Poulan Pro on craigslist for $110.

Unfortunately when I got the Poulan home, I found it had no power. :mad: Touch wood and it would stall out. I called the seller up and politely explained the situation. He asked me to bring it back so he could look at it. It turned out that he bought warranty returns and fixed and sold them. Often it was stuff like a new owner dumping the bottle of oil in the saw's fuel tank and then adding gas, so all he had to do was put a proper mix in it, change the plug and he had a virtually new tool to sell. But this one must have had something actually wrong with it. He offered money back or said he would need to order a carb kit and go through the carb. I wanted the saw and he seemed like a decent guy so I went with the carb O/H and return the saw. Today he dropped the saw off and it seems to run just fine. :)

It does seem like takes longer than I expected to go through a 20" log. None of the 10 second times like I see in your videos, but then again, it has a factory safety chain on it and it has not been hot rodded. But it does seem to make a lot more chips and use a lot more gas than the Echo. I think the kerf might be nearly twice as wide (90SG chain vs 33SL.)

The other problem is that he left the idle set too high. With a couple tanks of gas through the saw, it idles fast enough to run the chain. Where is the best place to find the special tool for adjusting idle speed?

Anyway... I've got a Poulan and it's doing the job. It may not be a saw that I'll hand down to my son (he has a 16" Echo anyway) but I think it will meet my very occasional needs around here or I may decide to list it on craigslist.

-hank

Welcome to the club! :clap:

I'm not familiar enough with the newer saws to be able to offer any advice on setting your idle (I am not familiar with the limiter tabs), but someone will be along shortly to help you out.

Once you tune up the saw and put a better chain on it, your cutting speeds should improve nicely.

Btw, where are the pics? :D

:cheers:
 
I believe you can set the idle with a regular small flathead screwdriver.
The L setting on the carb is a different matter altogether.

I bought mine off of eeeeeeeeBay at the urging of a member here.
A link to the listing is in the Poulan Lovers group.
(I would post it here but I'm darned near computer illiterate.)

You need to check and make sure whether you have the splined (probably) adjustment or the pac-man type.

I think those saws do o.k. for a 46cc saw pulling a 20" bar.

I wish you were here in Ky. I'd love to "tweak" on that saw.

Welcome to the Club and if I can ever help you, please feel free to ask!


Mike
 
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Btw, where are the pics? :D

Gee wiz!
Someone reading this site might think that you guys have never seen a chain saw before! :greenchainsaw:

Here it is, taking a break so I can catch my breath, get a drink of OJ, drain the sweat from my goggles and surf the internet inside a nice air conditioned family room. :D

Thanks guys for the pointers to tools for adjusting the idle.

P1000722-800.jpg


best,
walter
 
If any of you care to visit (or join if you haven't already) the Poulan Lovers Group, you will find that we have a new "cover girl" for our avatar.


Thanks Steve, for letting us use this fine example of Poulan power for a while.


Mike
 
Welcome Walter!

Mike was correct that you only need a small screwdriver to adjust the idle on that saw.

46cc is kind of small for a 20" bar from any manufactor but it got the job done didnt it?

If you decide to hang on to it, go ahead and get the muffler opened up on it, and the carb retuned and you will find a nice power increase on it.
 
Welcome Walter!

Mike was correct that you only need a small screwdriver to adjust the idle on that saw.

46cc is kind of small for a 20" bar from any manufactor but it got the job done didnt it?

If you decide to hang on to it, go ahead and get the muffler opened up on it, and the carb retuned and you will find a nice power increase on it.

Thanks for confirming the tip on idle speed adjustment.

Yes, it is getting the job done, doing what I need to get done.

thanks,
walt
 
Thanks for confirming the tip on idle speed adjustment.

Yes, it is getting the job done, doing what I need to get done.

thanks,
walt

Walt, welcome. You'll find alot of helpful info here. We Poulan Lovers have lime green underwear which turns to yellow after a few washings. Also we love pictures because we have a hard time reading. Welcome and enjoy your Poulan.
Bob
 
Look at Poulan Bug

Guys goofed and wrote a new Thread that I meant to put in this Group. Jist of it was that I'm looking to add to my collection and want a small Old Poulan. Any thoughts?
 
Guys goofed and wrote a new Thread that I meant to put in this Group. Jist of it was that I'm looking to add to my collection and want a small Old Poulan. Any thoughts?

I think the best built of the smaller saws is, hands down, the S25CVA. Most of mine are DA's and they do have a bit of vibration. I do have the PP S25 AV but I don't have a S25CVA to compare it to. I personally like the 2300's. They feel more balanced to me but they also have some plastic parts which are vulnerable to breakage. They have a single compression ring and seem to have less power. The front right hand side of the case is vulnerable to cracking near the bar mount and leaking bar oil out through the crack. S25's are built like a tank, 2000/2300's not so much so. 2300's are still pretty tough for an occasional use saw, very light and I personally think even easier to work on than S25's. BTW, I didn't mention the Micro saws here, sort of chronologically between the other two. IMO the 2000/2300's are really just an extension of the Micro's. I think the confusion for some with the Micro's and S25 series is that Poulan used the XXV designation on both, probably for that very reason - so they could build a cheaper small saw and people wouldn't realize what they were getting. No basis for fact there, just my cynical opinion based on the way companies tend to do business.
 
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