Nik's Poulan Thread

[kev1n]

I picked up the Daytons. The one on the left is in great shape, with just a little carbon scoring near the top of the piston. The one on the right took a while to get the welded muffler off. It's scored on the bottom of the exhaust port the extent of the piston. One came with a decent roller nose, the roller is a little loose though.
Kevin

 

[FATGUY]

That's probably the reason Nik.
I looked at the IPL and couldn't tell if those reeds can be flipped over or not.
The max standoff on them is .010.
Not sure if they are the same but I have a set from a 4200 (Andre should have them) and a set from a 5200 here if you need them.

Mike
P.S.
I went and out and pulled the reed cage on this 5200 and they should be able to be flipped over.

that saw and its parts are marked Mike and are in the bottom right hand drawer of my desk at work : )

Nice score Kevin!

 

[Modifiedmark]

that saw and its parts are marked Mike and are in the bottom right hand drawer of my desk at work : )

Nice score Kevin!

Nik, some spitback is normal, I doubt you need reeds but if you do, I have a set.

Ditto to Kevin on the Dayton pickup

 

[kev1n]

I forgot to mention, the guy had a rebadged poulan -partner . I thought it said F40, but I can't find it at mike acres. It looked just like the poulan micro, but with a chainbrake. He said he still needed it. I told him to give me a call when he's done with it.lol . Has anyone seen one of these?
Kevin

 

[rms61moparman]

Would one of you guys like to go over to the swap meet thread and explain to that newbie who has an 028, and Echo CS300 and a Husky 142 to trade, why I think it's funny that he doesn't want any offers for Poulans or Macs

One of you will probably be better able to control your verbage than I would be!!!


Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

I forgot to mention, the guy had a rebadged poulan -partner . I thought it said F40, but I can't find it at mike acres. It looked just like the poulan micro, but with a chainbrake. He said he still needed it. I told him to give me a call when he's done with it.lol . Has anyone seen one of these?
Kevin

I'm not sure on this one, I would have to see it.

Would one of you guys like to go over to the swap meet thread and explain to that newbie who has an 028, and Echo CS300 and a Husky 142 to trade, why I think it's funny that he doesn't want any offers for Poulans or Macs

One of you will probably be better able to control your verbage than I would be!!!


Mike

No, I'm not the guy you want for that job! What a dreamer. :msp_smile:

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks to Bob Dunshee

Thanks alot Bob!

 

[Eccentric]

I picked up the Daytons. The one on the left is in great shape, with just a little carbon scoring near the top of the piston. The one on the right took a while to get the welded muffler off. It's scored on the bottom of the exhaust port the extent of the piston. One came with a decent roller nose, the roller is a little loose though.
Kevin

Good score Kevin! Only seen one of those in person, and it was badly smashed. On the list for sure...


BTW-I like the 'custom' muffler...

 

[roncoinc]

Would one of you guys like to go over to the swap meet thread and explain to that newbie who has an 028, and Echo CS300 and a Husky 142 to trade, why I think it's funny that he doesn't want any offers for Poulans or Macs

One of you will probably be better able to control your verbage than I would be!!!


Mike

You trying to get one of us banned ?

 

[Modifiedmark]

You trying to get one of us banned ?

Yeah, we don't need any help with that do we?

 

[4cyl2vy]

Quick question for the Poulan people. I am rebuilding a craftsman badged 3400 and have cleaned the piston and cylinder of all the carbon that was in there. I measured the piston clearance with no base gasket using the solder method. I came up with .033-.035 clearance.

I am going to use no base gasket and a thin layer of Loctite 515 or 518 and wanted to know if this should be enough clearance. I have seen posts where they mention .020 as the minimum but was surprised to see this much gap with no gasket at all. The head gasket that was in there was .015 thick. There was a bunch of carbon on the piston and on the thin ring machined into the top jug. Should I take the future carbon buildup into consideration when measuring the squish? Or is that enough clearance already?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Quick question for the Poulan people. I am rebuilding a craftsman badged 3400 and have cleaned the piston and cylinder of all the carbon that was in there. I measured the piston clearance with no base gasket using the solder method. I came up with .033-.035 clearance.

I am going to use no base gasket and a thin layer of Loctite 515 or 518 and wanted to know if this should be enough clearance. I have seen posts where they mention .020 as the minimum but was surprised to see this much gap with no gasket at all. The head gasket that was in there was .015 thick. There was a bunch of carbon on the piston and on the thin ring machined into the top jug. Should I take the future carbon buildup into consideration when measuring the squish? Or is that enough clearance already?

Thanks for the help.

You should be fine without a gasket.

 

[rms61moparman]

Quick question for the Poulan people. I am rebuilding a craftsman badged 3400 and have cleaned the piston and cylinder of all the carbon that was in there. I measured the piston clearance with no base gasket using the solder method. I came up with .033-.035 clearance.

I am going to use no base gasket and a thin layer of Loctite 515 or 518 and wanted to know if this should be enough clearance. I have seen posts where they mention .020 as the minimum but was surprised to see this much gap with no gasket at all. The head gasket that was in there was .015 thick. There was a bunch of carbon on the piston and on the thin ring machined into the top jug. Should I take the future carbon buildup into consideration when measuring the squish? Or is that enough clearance already?

Thanks for the help.

You should be fine as Mark said.
.035 will almost give us enough room to hold a square dance at TDC!!LOL

The only thing I will add is that you never know how the saw was tuned or what mix it was run at before you got it.
With todays oils, a properly tuned saw shouldn't get THAT much carbon build-up.


Mike

 

[barneyrb]

Well, there is a certain PP475 that a member here built and sold to another member and now that saw is headed to Louisiana. Any words of wisdom before it shows up?

 

[rms61moparman]

Well, there is a certain PP475 that a member here built and sold to another member and now that saw is headed to Louisiana. Any words of wisdom before it shows up?

YES there is!

Run it like you borrowed it from your brother-in-law!!!
That saw is built right and good to go.


Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well, there is a certain PP475 that a member here built and sold to another member and now that saw is headed to Louisiana. Any words of wisdom before it shows up?

Really? I wondered about that but wasn't aware of the sale till it was about over. Glad you got it, I had thoughts about buying it back. You for one have enough wisdom, you don't need any help from us

I was kinda surprised to find out about it, but the seller seems to maybe have a surprise with what he is replacing it with.

Stay tuned! I'm sure he will let us know if it works out.

 

[Denman123a]

It Lives !

I finally finished rebuilding my Poulan "Pro" 4218 with a new cylinder and piston kit from jackssmallengines, and wow does it run well! It fired up OK on 1 1/4 turn H and L needle settings, but needed more H to get high RPMs. But it cuts like a bandit and sounds good. I didn't run it long first time out. Chalk one up for the good guys.:msp_biggrin: I'm not clear whether the needles meter fuel or air, and the reason I'm concerned is this saw crapped out WAY early to poor compression so I want to run it on the rich side if anything. The literature made much of being enviro-friendly and I suspect it was set too lean, therefore succumbing to overheating and under lubrication. Oh and BTW the two-year warranty on the Poulan "Pro" is a myth. The two dealers in this area were unanimous in that they didn't even want it in their shop, let alone talk warranty. Get what you pay for I guess (this thing was on sale for around $200 and came with a nice plastic case, spare chain, two tools and a tiny bottle of syn lube). I just could do without the barefaced lie about a warranty :taped:

 

[8433jeff]

I finally finished rebuilding my Poulan "Pro" 4218 with a new cylinder and piston kit from jackssmallengines, and wow does it run well! It fired up OK on 1 1/4 turn H and L needle settings, but needed more H to get high RPMs. But it cuts like a bandit and sounds good. I didn't run it long first time out. Chalk one up for the good guys.:msp_biggrin: I'm not clear whether the needles meter fuel or air, and the reason I'm concerned is this saw crapped out WAY early to poor compression so I want to run it on the rich side if anything. The literature made much of being enviro-friendly and I suspect it was set too lean, therefore succumbing to overheating and under lubrication. Oh and BTW the two-year warranty on the Poulan "Pro" is a myth. The two dealers in this area were unanimous in that they didn't even want it in their shop, let alone talk warranty. Get what you pay for I guess (this thing was on sale for around $200 and came with a nice plastic case, spare chain, two tools and a tiny bottle of syn lube). I just could do without the barefaced lie about a warranty :taped:

If you had your receipt, you got the shaft from those dealers. If you bought it at a big box retailer, I can see their attitude, to a point, but if they are, or someone is, a warranty center, they should have refunded the purchase price. The shop I tinker at warrantied one of these last fall, same deal, two tanks and seized up.
Better AV than a Wild thing, about the same saw with the strat engine

 

[briantutt]

If you had your receipt, you got the shaft from those dealers. If you bought it at a big box retailer, I can see their attitude, to a point, but if they are, or someone is, a warranty center, they should have refunded the purchase price. The shop I tinker at warrantied one of these last fall, same deal, two tanks and seized up.
Better AV than a Wild thing, about the same saw with the strat engine

What does strat mean? I asked this in the Wildthing thread but I didn't understand the answer.

 

[8433jeff]

Strat refers to the carb set up. Like on this saw, its a two barrel setup, with the top side only using air, no fuel. Emissions set up. How much less, the EPA knows, and I don't care. The jug is set up to receive a fresh air purge before the incoming air fuel charge. I think it kind of dilutes the exhaust. All I know about it, I just typed, so go from there.