Nik's Poulan Thread

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I finally finished rebuilding my Poulan "Pro" 4218 with a new cylinder and piston kit from jackssmallengines, and wow does it run well! It fired up OK on 1 1/4 turn H and L needle settings, but needed more H to get high RPMs. But it cuts like a bandit and sounds good. I didn't run it long first time out. Chalk one up for the good guys.:msp_biggrin: I'm not clear whether the needles meter fuel or air, and the reason I'm concerned is this saw crapped out WAY early to poor compression so I want to run it on the rich side if anything. The literature made much of being enviro-friendly and I suspect it was set too lean, therefore succumbing to overheating and under lubrication. Oh and BTW the two-year warranty on the Poulan "Pro" is a myth. The two dealers in this area were unanimous in that they didn't even want it in their shop, let alone talk warranty. Get what you pay for I guess (this thing was on sale for around $200 and came with a nice plastic case, spare chain, two tools and a tiny bottle of syn lube). I just could do without the barefaced lie about a warranty :taped:

Poulan didn't lie about the waranty, the 2 shops you went to are the ones that did. The shops I have been to tell me that Poulan is the easiest to deal with on warranty claims.

You should have found another service dealer through the Poulan website or got in touch with Poulan with your problems. They might have had a burr in there saddle if you didnt buy it there but I'm sure Poulan would have liked to been informed about that as well.

Now if Poulan told you to go pound sand, then I say you have a vaild #####, but not now, two independent shops shafted you, not Poulan.
 
Strat refers to the carb set up. Like on this saw, its a two barrel setup, with the top side only using air, no fuel. Emissions set up. How much less, the EPA knows, and I don't care. The jug is set up to receive a fresh air purge before the incoming air fuel charge. I think it kind of dilutes the exhaust. All I know about it, I just typed, so go from there.

Got it, strat=strattle
 
Strat refers to the carb set up. Like on this saw, its a two barrel setup, with the top side only using air, no fuel. Emissions set up. How much less, the EPA knows, and I don't care. The jug is set up to receive a fresh air purge before the incoming air fuel charge. I think it kind of dilutes the exhaust. All I know about it, I just typed, so go from there.

Yes and the jug has two inserts that kinda of block the transfers somewhat. Some of those guys in the Wildthing GTG thread got really good power from the strat saws.

I know if you port that exhaust port a bit and open that muffler up, it becomes a different animal. These saws from the factory to comply with regulations are so stuffed up it's like you trying to breath through a cocktail straw. With that lean setting and stuffed up muffler it's no wonder so many score the pistons.

Anyway I like the newer saw too, there easy to work on and respond well to mods.
 
Poulan didn't lie about the waranty, the 2 shops you went to are the ones that did. The shops I have been to tell me that Poulan is the easiest to deal with on warranty claims.

You should have found another service dealer through the Poulan website or got in touch with Poulan with your problems. They might have had a burr in there saddle if you didnt buy it there but I'm sure Poulan would have liked to been informed about that as well.

Now if Poulan told you to go pound sand, then I say you have a vaild #####, but not now, two independent shops shafted you, not Poulan.

Looking around the shop in Ottawa, I wouldn't trust them to repair a wheelbarrow, ... I bought a piston ring from them and after fussing for 1/2 hour they sold me the wrong size. Be that as it may, I still wonder about the needle jets: do they meter fuel or air? I want to set it on the rich side to prevent the premature loss of compression I got with the OEM setup, ... Thx :rock:
 
Looking around the shop in Ottawa, I wouldn't trust them to repair a wheelbarrow, ... I bought a piston ring from them and after fussing for 1/2 hour they sold me the wrong size. Be that as it may, I still wonder about the needle jets: do they meter fuel or air? I want to set it on the rich side to prevent the premature loss of compression I got with the OEM setup, ... Thx :rock:

Jets on the carb measure fuel, throttle plate measures airflow.
Set it the way it should be and you will be fine. Plenty of carb tuning threads, should snap off idle with the low speed, and four stroke out of wood on high. Should run out clean after prolonged idle (low), should clear the miss in wood (high). Low side always closest to engine. Good luck.
 
Looking around the shop in Ottawa, I wouldn't trust them to repair a wheelbarrow, ... I bought a piston ring from them and after fussing for 1/2 hour they sold me the wrong size. Be that as it may, I still wonder about the needle jets: do they meter fuel or air? I want to set it on the rich side to prevent the premature loss of compression I got with the OEM setup, ... Thx :rock:


They meter fuel. Turn screw to the left to richen.

Good answer, Jeff. We were working on the answer at the same time.
 
They meter fuel. Turn screw to the left to richen.

Good answer, Jeff. We were working on the answer at the same time.

Guys tuning saws the first time should find someone who has done it before, or at least hear (search) how its done or determined. Only reason I answered him is that hes not getting any help from the dealers hes been seeing. Everyone was a greenhorn sometime, some like me still are. Even mechanics have go to guys.
 
245 starter help

I finally found some time to look at this Dayton badged 245 that I picked up last year.

Daytonsaws008.jpg


It came without a visible starter rope so I decided to investigate. At first the design stumped me until I took another 245 cover off to investigate and realized the take up wheel is beneath the flywheel.

I presume the flywheel needs to come off to get to the assembly? I took off the crankshaft nut and was able to get 2 legs of my puller onto the flywheel, but could not get it to move. Before I tear something up, I thought I would ask Mark or one of the other experts the procedure or the trick I am missing.

Gary
 
I finally found some time to look at this Dayton badged 245 that I picked up last year.

Daytonsaws008.jpg


It came without a visible starter rope so I decided to investigate. At first the design stumped me until I took another 245 cover off to investigate and realized the take up wheel is beneath the flywheel.

I presume the flywheel needs to come off to get to the assembly? I took off the crankshaft nut and was able to get 2 legs of my puller onto the flywheel, but could not get it to move. Before I tear something up, I thought I would ask Mark or one of the other experts the procedure or the trick I am missing.

Gary

I usually tighten down on the puller some and if it doesn't pop off then tap on the the puller bolt or use a rubber mallet to tap on the side opposite the magnets on the flywheel.
 
Yeah, that's what I use too usually. :msp_thumbup: But occasionally for the stubborn ones, and if it will fit, I use a puller to help. :cheers:

Finally hit 1000! :msp_cool:

Congrats on 1000 Steve!:clap: Unlike some on AS, that have thousands upon thousands of posts, I'll bet 99 percent of yours were useful:msp_thumbup: and or actually helped somebody!!!!
:cheers:
Gregg,
 

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