Nik's Poulan Thread

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YUP. Here she is all 74ccs. and it was clean. Now I am on the lookput for a 24" bar for it.
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws194.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws194.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws193.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws193.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I'm almost as excited as you to see it with a 24" bar. Mine runs damn good to now Joe thanks. I have a 3/8's sprocket here waiting for mine but it seems I'm missing a bearing.....Wonder when it will apear in the mail....hint hint hint. LOL

Joe I have yet to have mine in wood yet though..Been really busy with work and 4 wheeling and also getting parts for my XP build. link just incase you didn't see

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=111085
 
Poulan Super 25 Deluxe-auto oiler or not

I have a S25 I bought new around 1980.
It does not say any thing about automatic on the starter cover.
The manual oil still works & the the auto oil mechanism
looks to be available on the flywheel side. Is this model supposed
to have auto oiling?

I also have other Poulans have that run sometimes, if you work on them
long enough.
4200 CV
361
5400 CV
PP260
 
I have a S25 I bought new around 1980.
It does not say any thing about automatic on the starter cover.
The manual oil still works & the the auto oil mechanism
looks to be available on the flywheel side. Is this model supposed
to have auto oiling?

I also have other Poulans have that run sometimes, if you work on them
long enough.
4200 CV
361
5400 CV
PP260


I would take those off your hands and save you the trouble of working on them anymore.


Mike
 
YUP. Here she is all 74ccs. and it was clean. Now I am on the lookout for a 24" bar for it.

What are you waiting for? Baileys has em, but if your looking used the 24's are not as hard to find as the 28's.

If you get in a hurry, just get a big Husky bar for it and file the slot out to 3/8's and I'll send you the spacers to fit it. The only thing is that it may end up a odd drive link count but that's not a big deal.

I can check it out and see if the drive link count will stay the same if you want me too.
 
I got a carb kit coming for the 71-A from a site sponsor, if it shows up tomorrow I think maybe this weekend I'll give a try on getting the carb out of it and see if the old dog will bark.

Looking at the muffler on it, if it runs I'm sure the bark will be loud! It has less muffler on it then my Mono saw does:dizzy:
 
I got a carb kit coming for the 71-A from a site sponsor, if it shows up tomorrow I think maybe this weekend I'll give a try on getting the carb out of it and see if the old dog will bark.

Looking at the muffler on it, if it runs I'm sure the bark will be loud! It has less muffler on it then my Mono saw does:dizzy:



I figured you would already have that carb out and cleaned!
I was just telling Monkeypetting last night about my Uncles old Poulan.
I don't remember what model it was. Looked a lot like the 71 but had no paint, just aluminum.
That danged thing would make your ears bleed to run it for a while, but the real punishment was if you were the "holder"! That was unbearable for more than just a few minutes!

Mike
 
Changing Crankcase Halves(3400)

After another botched crankcase seal replacement attempt, I'm sure case half is out of round. So, I'm thinking of using another half(oil pump side) from another saw. Has anyone done this? Before installing new bearings, etc. would like to know that I'm not barking up the wrong tree. I can't believe that on these mass produced saws, that case halves are not you interchangeable. What do think?
Bob
 
What are you waiting for? Baileys has em, but if your looking used the 24's are not as hard to find as the 28's.

If you get in a hurry, just get a big Husky bar for it and file the slot out to 3/8's and I'll send you the spacers to fit it. The only thing is that it may end up a odd drive link count but that's not a big deal.

I can check it out and see if the drive link count will stay the same if you want me too.

This saw is my project this weekend. Either ill have a oregon bar or a husky filed to fit.
 
After another botched crankcase seal replacement attempt, I'm sure case half is out of round. So, I'm thinking of using another half(oil pump side) from another saw. Has anyone done this? Before installing new bearings, etc. would like to know that I'm not barking up the wrong tree. I can't believe that on these mass produced saws, that case halves are not you interchangeable. What do think?
Bob

Bob, I've done just that! Several Times. Have had good luck so far.:clap:
Like the one I just put together, Its a mish-mash of all kinds of parts from different saws. I call it "my ugly ba$tard". All this talk of porting a saw got the better of me:laugh: So, I started grinding on a 3400 cyl. I did the exhaust port, came out pretty good for a first attempt. Its now much wider at least!. I wasn't sure what to do with the intake side, so I left it alone. It runs great!:clap: Now I wish I had done some on the intake. I need more tools for that kinda work though. But at least its fun trying this stuff out!

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Yea, I took plunge and put new crank bearing in case half. Need to reassemble and install crank seal. I typically install seal after halves put together. I am somewhat paranoid over ruining two seals on the bad case half so I'm crossing my fingers. Thanks.
Bob
 
Bob, I've done just that! Several Times. Have had good luck so far.:clap:
Like the one I just put together, Its a mish-mash of all kinds of parts from different saws. I call it "my ugly ba$tard". All this talk of porting a saw got the better of me:laugh: So, I started grinding on a 3400 cyl. I did the exhaust port, came out pretty good for a first attempt. Its now much wider at least!. I wasn't sure what to do with the intake side, so I left it alone. It runs great!:clap: Now I wish I had done some on the intake. I need more tools for that kinda work though. But at least its fun trying this stuff out!

:cheers:
Gregg,

How wide did you go Gregg? I just did my first one as well but only round out inside edges so the side walls were even all the way through. Was hesitant going much wider. Its wider but only to the extent of removing the inside edge, if you follw me. I noticed that the 3400 has a narrower opening on the piston side of the cylinder as opposed to the muffler opening. Didn't see this differance on the 3700 or 4000.
Bob
 
How wide did you go Gregg? I just did my first one as well but only round out inside edges so the side walls were even all the way through. Was hesitant going much wider. Its wider but only to the extent of removing the inside edge, if you follw me. I noticed that the 3400 has a narrower opening on the piston side of the cylinder as opposed to the muffler opening. Didn't see this differance on the 3700 or 4000.
Bob

I didn't take any measurments, probably did mine like you did, just widened it so its pretty much straight through now! I was lookin at the 3700 cyl. and noticed they are already much wider than the 3400. May try one of those also sometime.

All I can say is, its much wider and open than it was! I chickened out on the intake side:confused: Not much room to work on that side, and the intake manifold screw threads are close by also! Doesn't look to me like you can take much off in that area.

I would love to see what Brad did to his 4000! just to get an Idea on how far one can go. I don't have a tach, so can't tell ya any real numbers on any gains, but it does seem alot stronger than a stock 3400.

Its something fun to try though:) I still havn't got the guts to tear apart a good running saw, and try grinding on it! 3400 cylinder parts are little easier to come by. So I'll probably do most of my experimenting with the 3400's.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I'm paying attention to you guys as I think I may have the bug to grind one of these days.

After running the muffler modded 3700 last weekend I was impressed to say the least. That saw just screams now. I really think it will run with my 262XP, but I need to get the video thing down as no one would believe me otherwise.

Got it burbbling rich but it cleans out as soon as it hits the wood and don't want to slow down.

I still have that good 3700 P/C and waiting for the right saw to put it on. Thinking that this would be a good time to port one. I may just but it on one of my 3400's.
 
As for the Intake side of the cylinder, I smoothed it out and cleaned it up but the gains on that side, I think, are in the little plastic manifold between the carb and the cyl.
That thing needs work BAD. I opened it up a bunch on the multi colored 3400 I built and spent a WHILE smoothing the transition.
That seemed to help a bunch also.
Most of those I've seen are a pretty rough casting, right out of the mold with no deburring or trimming whatsoever.


Mike
 
As for the Intake side of the cylinder, I smoothed it out and cleaned it up but the gains on that side, I think, are in the little plastic manifold between the carb and the cyl.
That thing needs work BAD. I opened it up a bunch on the multi colored 3400 I built and spent a WHILE smoothing the transition.
That seemed to help a bunch also.
Most of those I've seen are a pretty rough casting, right out of the mold with no deburring or trimming whatsoever.


Mike

Mike, I was lookin at the manifolds also. Was my thinking, that no matter what you did to the intake port on the cyl. You are still limited by the plastic manifold.
Didn't try anything with that yet, but I think I will now that you mentioned that! Certainly worth a shot tryin I guess:)
Back in the old days, that was allways the first thing we would change on a car or truck engine, was the manifold, carb, and headers! Makes sence that it would be also on a chainsaw!

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Mike, I was lookin at the manifolds also. Was my thinking, that no matter what you did to the intake port on the cyl. You are still limited by the plastic manifold.
Didn't try anything with that yet, but I think I will now that you mentioned that! Certainly worth a shot tryin I guess:)
Back in the old days, that was allways the first thing we would change on a car or truck engine, was the manifold, carb, and headers! Makes sence that it would be also on a chainsaw!

:cheers:
Gregg,

Go to it guys and let us see before and after pics. That way we can use as a guide. I ported exhaust side but my achilles heel has arisen. Both seals leak badly after replacing them. Used a socket to set them so I think I'm proceeding correctly. Consequently until I can fix or ruin more seals I can't test port job!
Bob
 
Go to it guys and let us see before and after pics. That way we can use as a guide. I ported exhaust side but my achilles heel has arisen. Both seals leak badly after replacing them. Used a socket to set them so I think I'm proceeding correctly. Consequently until I can fix or ruin more seals I can't test port job!
Bob

I do it the same way Bob, with a socket. Been lucky so far I guess. The first one I did, I had a little trouble gettin the seal to slide over the crankshaft and seat correctly, kinda wanted to pull it out of shape. I lubed the shaft and seal with some 2 stroke oil, and seemed to work much better, over doing it dry. Don't know what is the proper way to do it, but works for me..LOL

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Go to it guys and let us see before and after pics. That way we can use as a guide. I ported exhaust side but my achilles heel has arisen. Both seals leak badly after replacing them. Used a socket to set them so I think I'm proceeding correctly. Consequently until I can fix or ruin more seals I can't test port job!
Bob

Bob you sure are having a heck of a time! Where are they leaking? Around the outside of the seals or between the inner rubber seal and the crank?

I will somtimes cut a piece of thin aluminum from like a pie tin or something, and wrap around the crank when installing a seal to keep the seal lips from flipping over and letting the spring inside fall out. Also I sometimes coat the outside of the seal with good old fashioned #2 permatex.
 
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