Nik's Poulan Thread

[joe25DA]

Poulan was able to sell units that did not meet emissions standards for anumber of years because they had enough models that did meet the standard so that the EPA would issue them credits to sell those products only not in the state of California which has it's own set of emission standards. In 1985 ANSI released a standard that if companies wanting to wear the UL label would have to adhere to it was ANSI B175.1 1985 and it was a safety standard for occasional users, noise output, kickback, vibration analysis etc.. That would probably mean that alot of muffler configurations that would not meet sound standards would be used up and some of those old saws were so unwieldy and unbalanced that they could not meet some of these standards. Kicback testing was a bear and long bars, bow bars etc could only be used on pro saws that did not fall under the guidelines of this standard but if a product could not meet the specifications for what was considered a "pro" saw then it fell under these guidelines. I believe that one of the criteria was for durability testing for min. 300 hours without major mechanical failure. Can you see where the dilemma started coming in with production of the pro line? Another one of the problems with these saws was the USDA standard for muffler exhaust gasses. Which states that at a plane of contact with the engine running at optimum performance on a dyno and with the contact plane specified by a wire frame there can be no point on that plane to exceed a temp of 480 degrees. That does away with all front exhaust mufflers and let the detuning begin. no more can you just build a hoss and throw it out there and watch the chips fly. Sweden and the US government were responsible for alot of what went on back then and the demise of some good old saws.
I was in the production machining department in 1991 when we ran our last batch of 1000 midsize crankcases for service.

ron

Great info Ron. I have another question about the S25 and 3700 and 4000. These saws were later re-painted and sold as the PP versions (PPS25, Farm Pro 375 and 395). What were the changes if any made the the green saws to meet the "pro" standards?
Thanks for the great info!

 

[OhioGregg]

Only to VERY special people!!!
Do you need any?


Mike

No Mike, I don't NEED most of the ones I already have. I havn't even taken my 4200 to the woods yet for a run. Or, my 5200 since I redid that one also.

I have split a bunch of wood so far this spring/summer, but have not cut much yet. One of these days I have to get busy and fill the woods with Poulan music again! LOL


Gregg,

 

[67 Mustang]

Guys, I think I may have a solution for those trying to make an adapter for the 5200-5400 tank fittings. Steve, it may take your help also, on the PP455-655 there is a connector for the fuel line and it looks like it is 1/4 npt (part number 507431268).

Steve, if you will look on your 655 and where the fuel line comes out of the tank it is the connector I am talking about. Take a look at your and see if it would work. Still ava through Poulan at $5.03/ea.

Randy, that fitting looks like it would work fine but for the size. I didn't pull mine out to measure it and can't really tell by looking at the outside, but if it's 1/4 NPT as you suggest that would require a considerable enlargement of the fuel line hole in the tank. My 5200 uses 5/16 OD fuel line and it is snug enough not to leak around it. 1/4 NPT requires a 7/16 hole. 1/8 NPT would be much better but would still require a slight enlargement of the hole. My drill chart says it takes a 21/64 drill bit which is 1/64 larger that 5/16.

 

[barneyrb]

Randy, that fitting looks like it would work fine but for the size. I didn't pull mine out to measure it and can't really tell by looking at the outside, but if it's 1/4 NPT as you suggest that would require a considerable enlargement of the fuel line hole in the tank. My 5200 uses 5/16 OD fuel line and it is snug enough not to leak around it. 1/4 NPT requires a 7/16 hole. 1/8 NPT would be much better but would still require a slight enlargement of the hole. My drill chart says it takes a 21/64 drill bit which is 1/64 larger that 5/16.

Steve, I had the one out of my 455 and it is about the same size threads as a 3/8 bolt so I was guessing it to be npt, my tired old eyes play tricks more often on me nowdays.

 

[hemiyota]

Just picked up another 245A

It belonged to a guy, who had a stroke, and said he couldn't handle the damn thing anymore. Wanted $30 for it. The gas tank was spotless, even the fuel lines were ok (I replaced the one in the tank, anyway). Air filter was fairly clean, and the area around the carb was completely clean as well. When I pulled it, it seemed to have great compression (No, I didn't check it, cause I trashed my old tester!!) Started fairly easy, but I think it'll need a carb kit, because when I got the L adjusted to where I got good throttle response, it was barely idling, and the idle screw was all the way in.
He said that he got the bar pinched, and had to have it welded...still seems to work well, though.

<dl><dt><a href="http://claspics.com/438/792288/1310764392-241.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/438/792288/1310764392-241.JPG_t.jpg" border="0" /></a>&nbsp;<a href="http://claspics.com/438/792288/1310764397-961.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/438/792288/1310764397-961.JPG_t.jpg" border="0" /></a>&nbsp;</dt><dt style="width: 473px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/438/792288/1310764387-451.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/438/792288/1310764387-451.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>

 

[tbone75]

It belonged to a guy, who had a stroke, and said he couldn't handle the damn thing anymore. Wanted $30 for it. The gas tank was spotless, even the fuel lines were ok (I replaced the one in the tank, anyway). Air filter was fairly clean, and the area around the carb was completely clean as well. When I pulled it, it seemed to have great compression (No, I didn't check it, cause I trashed my old tester!!) Started fairly easy, but I think it'll need a carb kit, because when I got the L adjusted to where I got good throttle response, it was barely idling, and the idle screw was all the way in.
He said that he got the bar pinched, and had to have it welded...still seems to work well, though.

<dl><dt><a href="http://claspics.com/438/792288/1310764392-241.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/438/792288/1310764392-241.JPG_t.jpg" border="0" /></a>&nbsp;<a href="http://claspics.com/438/792288/1310764397-961.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/438/792288/1310764397-961.JPG_t.jpg" border="0" /></a>&nbsp;</dt><dt style="width: 473px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/438/792288/1310764387-451.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/438/792288/1310764387-451.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>

Nice score.Looks like its in nice shape!

 

[hogron]

Great info Ron. I have another question about the S25 and 3700 and 4000. These saws were later re-painted and sold as the PP versions (PPS25, Farm Pro 375 and 395). What were the changes if any made the the green saws to meet the "pro" standards?
Thanks for the great info!

Not a lot. In the early days the PP units would have tighter tolerances on machining the cylinders, pistons, torque specs on the line were tighter as well. In the test booth the units were set to a tighter range on the wot's and idle spec's. I can't remember but I think that the PP units had chromed cylinder bores and uncoated pistons and the Poulan units had chrome plated pistons and bare bores on some models on others the only real difference was the paint . The paint booth would change out paint depending on what was needed otherwise. Poulan Pro became a name brand and not so much a pro model. In the early days there weren't really any standards on what a "pro" unit was, but after standards became available I think that our units were listed as semi-pro (125 hour)or occasional use (75 hour) units. Today no Poulan products is listed as a pro or semi-pro they are all listed in the occasional use category even the ones labeled Poulan Pro and the standard for occasional use products today is 50 hours. We do make some good products though. The SAS or airhead units as we called them are clean burning and so long as they are not set to lean, will last well beyond there alloted time. I can't think of model numbers right now though.
I don't know if y'all know this or not but the S25 was built into the 90's as a specialty saw for power companies and tree trimming outfits. These had a steel ring on the handle for hooking on a belt. It was PP gold.

C-y'all later my wife is going out to eat and I would like to go with her.

Ron

 

[Nardoo]

Thanks for taking the time to reply Ron, you have lots of good information about our favourite saws. Enjoy your meal.

 

[barneyrb]

PP455 AKA the "Halloween Saw"

This is the 455 that I have been working on for over a year now. I have been gathering NOS parts and building this like I wanted it or it should have been doen in the first place. I wouldn't call it a restored saw but a "Restomod".

Everything has been painted or replaced with new. If you notice the recoil housing is from a P42 painted the correct PP yellow. I have always admired this series of saw because of the performance but always thought that plastic recoil they came with looked rather cheesy or out of place.

I searched high and low and never found a new electronic module but did modify a new "Wild Thing" module for a direct fit and it runs great. This thing is really a 72cc torque monster, not a lot of rpm's but lots of torque.

It's named the "Halloween Saw" because my wife walked by right as I was taking the pictures and she commented that is has Halloween colors. BTW....it's a keeper aroound here and I hope the pictures attache.






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[67 Mustang]

Very nice, Randy!

 

[tbone75]

Great looking saw!:msp_thumbsup:

 

[Modifiedmark]

Not a lot. In the early days the PP units would have tighter tolerances on machining the cylinders, pistons, torque specs on the line were tighter as well.


In the case of the S25/PP S25AV, the 3700/PP Farm Pro 375 and the 4000/ PP395 that Joe asked about I belive there was nothing really different at all except for the paint and in some instances added chain brakes.


Poulan Pro became a name brand and not so much a pro model.

Yes a brand that was orginally pretty much exclusively stocked with real "PRO" saws. Some rebadged Partner/Jonsereds, Pioneers and some of Poulans own offerings. We know what happened down the road with it and what it has become.


I don't know if y'all know this or not but the S25 was built into the 90's as a specialty saw for power companies and tree trimming outfits. These had a steel ring on the handle for hooking on a belt. It was PP gold.

Yep, the PP S25AV, basically a regular ole S25 with a front handle antivibe mount and the lanyard ring you speak of.


Ron

This is just my take on it.


It seems in 1990 there were 15 Poulan Pro saws offered in what was a pretty darn good lineup.

 

[Modifiedmark]

This is the 455 that I have been working on for over a year now. I have been gathering NOS parts and building this like I wanted it or it should have been doen in the first place. I wouldn't call it a restored saw but a "Restomod".

Everything has been painted or replaced with new. If you notice the recoil housing is from a P42 painted the correct PP yellow. I have always admired this series of saw because of the performance but always thought that plastic recoil they came with looked rather cheesy or out of place.

I searched high and low and never found a new electronic module but did modify a new "Wild Thing" module for a direct fit and it runs great. This thing is really a 72cc torque monster, not a lot of rpm's but lots of torque.

It's named the "Halloween Saw" because my wife walked by right as I was taking the pictures and she commented that is has Halloween colors. BTW....it's a keeper aroound here and I hope the pictures attache.






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That looks good!

Got a line on any more NOS brake bands?

 

[barneyrb]

That looks good!

Got a line on any more NOS brake bands?

Mark, I may have a band, won't be NOS but it will be in one piece, hafta look tomorrow.

 

[redunshee]

Very nice, Randy!

Yup. Really nice saw. I've got a PP405 and 655. Looking to fill out the in between models. What color paint did you use Randy?
Bob

 

[barneyrb]

Yup. Really nice saw. I've got a PP405 and 655. Looking to fill out the in between models. What color paint did you use Randy?
Bob

I took a PP375 (nice paint on it) down to a automotive paint shop and they put it under a machine and it automatically mixed everything.

 

[OhioGregg]

This doesn't have anything to do with Poulan saws, at least not directly. In the past I used a cat.1 boom pole from TSC. I bent it before. But earlier this summer while trying to get several large oak logs out of the woods for a Poulan GTG, I pretty much mangled that into the shape of a pretzel.

I had wanted to make one with a long stroke hyd. cyl. Kinda like a crane. But decided to go this route instead. (cheap).
Plus the fact I don't own much in the way of metal working tools or skills. LOL All I have is a stick welder, 4" grinder, and a sawzall!. I don't even have a gas torch. I made it out of scrap metal I had around. The cat.2 hitch, I saved from an old Ford row cultivator. The main beam is from a Brillion mulcher, and other braces and pieces were from a Ford plow. Total cost was $0. Unless you count what welding rods I used.

It works great!!! I managed to pick up and move some Hefty logs yesterday, in preparation for a hopefully Poulan GTG sometime this summer, or fall. Whenever we can come up with a date. Was unfortunate had to postpone the spring time date, cause of excess water.

Gregg,

 

[Warped5]

Nice bit of local engineering there! Looks strong and the price is right!

 

[Modifiedmark]

Gregg, I like that alot!

Cost was good as well.

 

[rms61moparman]

Yeah Gregg,

I'll bet the front end of your tractor will get pretty light before you mangle that one!!!
That cultivator hitch should be all you'll ever need.


Mike