Nik's Poulan Thread

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this is something some of you old hands with tons of parts, poulan and otherwise, might be able to answer. It would take a lot of looking and comparing, etc and knowledge of sizes and configurations...

Modern "cheap"poulans are out there in abundance, but they are all smallish in displacement. Is there any way to build a franken saw using a different larger after market cylinder and piston, something that might be easy to construct? A not designed for it but would work anyway "big bore kit"? Something in the 60-70 cc class? And if so, do you think it would hold up to regular use? What case to start with, then what P/C? Not ancient, I mean relatively new. I see these new poulans marked down to 99 bucks sometimes.

My wild theory is..there might be a way to come up with a "new" 60-70 cc saw starting with a hundred buck poulan combined with a hundred buck aftermarket cylinder and piston. Then you might have something that could really run those 18 and 20 inch bars they ship with...

Just wonderin'.....

All these newer Poulans that are $99 you speak of are a clamshell design and it's not a simple matter off replacing the plug & jug to increase displacement, but I do hope you'll keep us informed of what you come up with. :msp_unsure:
 
That's why I was asking...

All these newer Poulans that are $99 you speak of are a clamshell design and it's not a simple matter off replacing the plug & jug to increase displacement, but I do hope you'll keep us informed of what you come up with. :msp_unsure:

I don't think I can come up with anything like that, I don't have years and years experience and a whole garage fulla parts to look at. I mean, I have a few old poulan carcasses, that's it, and not near enough experience. That's why I was asking the old hands here, the poulan real pros. All I have so far for an idea is..adapter plates?
 
Wrist pin diameter isn't really a big deal.
You know the worlds greatest machinist started this thread!
I have wondered about putting a souped up 4000 cylinder on a 330.
Of course it might not run any better than the 330 I picked up this week!!!:D

Mike
 
Well if there is enough meat in the piston perhaps it could be modified a little....and perhaps the rod also but I would go lightly:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
I suppose the rod width would also be a useful data point to know...

Whats the story on the 330? You know the drill...without pictures........:msp_ohmy::msp_ohmy::msp_ohmy:




Randy (Mastermind7864) was nice enough to let his awesome ported PP330 come to live here with me!!!:msp_thumbsup:
There is a thread here on it.


Mike
 
Chain brake

Was interested to see a NOS chainbrake(5) for sale on Ebay. IPL doesn't show one. Has anyone seen one on a saw?
Bob

Poulan did not sell S25DA 0r S25CVA with a chainbrake, but they offered them as a kit for a low amount. I have a couple of unused Poulan Green chainbrakes and a Craftsman red one. The Poulan Pro S25 was the only one of this series that was sold with chain brake.
 
i saw that one

Poulan did not sell S25DA 0r S25CVA with a chainbrake, but they offered them as a kit for a low amount. I have a couple of unused Poulan Green chainbrakes and a Craftsman red one. The Poulan Pro S25 was the only one of this series that was sold with chain brake.




I saw that the one that was a buy it now for 24 bucks it was pretty wild looking first one i have seen!
 
Poulan did not sell S25DA 0r S25CVA with a chainbrake, but they offered them as a kit for a low amount. I have a couple of unused Poulan Green chainbrakes and a Craftsman red one. The Poulan Pro S25 was the only one of this series that was sold with chain brake.

Very interesting. I might be crazy enough to pick one up off Ebay if only as a conversation piece.
Bob
 
Bob, you just have to look at the right IPL. The oldest IPL that I have that shows the chainbrake kit is from 1990.

The part # for the kit is 952069259. It can still be ordered from Poulan an is $24.40.

I don't know what color it will be when it shows up but I would think it would be grey.

This has be rehashed here befor about Poulan being slow and resisting releasing chain brakes as standard equiptment in the US and how most of the Canadian saws having them as standard to meet the stricter safety standards there.

I should have figured you would have info about on it. Thanks Mark.
 
Im pretty stumped about this dayton/poulan. I took the cylinder off to inspect, because of the low compression. It seems everything is fine. The rings are still thick, dont look worn at all. No scoring or anything. Should i get some rings in it, then take the base gasket off to bump the compression?

Before you do that try one more thing. Reverse the rings. That is, put the top ring in the bottom and vice versa. Do a comp test again. Reason- seems the top ring wears more than the bottom ring. I haven't looked at old posts but assume you have a good compression tester.

Bob
 
Randy is #1. He sent me a P/C for a Craftsman 3.3 to bring it back to life. It was a little messed up but not as bad as the one I had and I did some crazy **** with it and got it to work (extreme dilute acid etching high silicon cylinder that had been "machined"). We had nothing to lose and I learned a little. Now I have a 3.3 that works, before I didn't.:rock::rock:

got pix? did any mods?
 
Was browsing around Arboristsite today, and found some pics someone posted from a logging competition, I think in Montana. Looks like someone still likes to use the old Poulans for something other than sitting on the shelf!! :clap:

Poulanracer.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Before you do that try one more thing. Reverse the rings. That is, put the top ring in the bottom and vice versa. Do a comp test again. Reason- seems the top ring wears more than the bottom ring. I haven't looked at old posts but assume you have a good compression tester.

Bob

I do not have a compression tester....yet! I havent really needed it for this build. The pull start is effortless...I will try what you mentioned and see how it does. Thanks.
 
4000 bar ?

Will the 4000 pull a 24" ok through hardwood ? I'm thinking of offing my 757 while she is like new and worth some $ now that I have another 4000 in the stable , but I really need one saw that can mow with the 24".

On a side note I recently acquired a service manual for 3400-4000 series if anyone is in need of any specs. :msp_thumbup:
 
Will the 4000 pull a 24" ok through hardwood ? I'm thinking of offing my 757 while she is like new and worth some $ now that I have another 4000 in the stable , but I really need one saw that can mow with the 24".

On a side note I recently acquired a service manual for 3400-4000 series if anyone is in need of any specs. :msp_thumbup:

Yes it will, handle a 24"bar. I keep one, on one of my 4000's. I honestly can't tell any difference the way they run with 20" or 24".;) Hardwoods is all I cut. This is a 4000, even though it probably doesn't look like one.LOL Has a large mount Husky 24" bar on it.

100_0469.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Applehead, I have tried every which way from Sunday, to get a video to embed here, and can't. Since the "New & Improved" AS came along.:rolleyes: Anyway, here is hopefully, a workable link to a video of the same saw with a different 24" bar, and different tree. This one was Oak, around 30" or so.

Poulan 4000 24" bar video by Gregg500 - Photobucket

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Applehead, I have tried every which way from Sunday, to get a video to embed here, and can't. Since the "New & Improved" AS came along.:rolleyes: Anyway, here is hopefully, a workable link to a video of the same saw with a different 24" bar, and different tree. This one was Oak, around 30" or so.

Poulan 4000 24" bar video by Gregg500 - Photobucket

:cheers:
Gregg,

Maybe this will work? Thats a good running 4000. A 24" is not a problem on them and in fact, my first one arrived from the west coast wearing a 28" bar.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid48.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff201%2FGregg500%2F100_0050.mp4">
 
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Poulan XX

I have said before that I'm not really that much in the know on the Poulan XX saws and it has probably been 25 years or more since I worked on one.

I have a couple here in different colors and just never really got interested in them enough to get after them. Well I got reintroduced to them some.

Been too hot to really work in the shop but I did tear into the Ridgid branded XX a couple of nights ago. Got it running finally after I found someone had put the wrong inlet needle spring in the carb.:msp_mad: That took a little bit of doing to figure that out.

It run like it had a air leak and the oiler wasnt working and found the impulse line to the oil tank in crumbles. Looking at the manual, it looks like you should have to split the cases to replace it unless someone knows how to push a tight fitting rubber line into a hole. I have not mastered that trick yet. :cool2:

I did figure out how to thread the new line into the case with only removing the cyl though. It's pretty easy to remove the cyl as well.

I didnt get it finished though, I gave up in the heat. It was 90 deg in the shop when I got home from work yesterday but the thermometer on the side of the house said 114 deg in the sun. :angry: I ended up working in the 90 deg shop with the doors closed to keep it a balmy 90 inside. :ices_rofl:

So when it cools down I'll get back on it and try to remember the camera to take some pics if you guys want to see them but I'm not sure when that will be as the thermometer on the house said 118 deg today when I got home...
 

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