Nik's Poulan Thread

[rms61moparman]

I have said before that I'm not really that much in the know on the Poulan XX saws and it has probably been 25 years or more since I worked on one.

I have a couple here in different colors and just never really got interested in them enough to get after them. Well I got reintroduced to them some.

Been too hot to really work in the shop but I did tear into the Ridgid branded XX a couple of nights ago. Got it running finally after I found someone had put the wrong inlet needle spring in the carb.:msp_mad: That took a little bit of doing to figure that out.

It run like it had a air leak and the oiler wasnt working and found the impulse line to the oil tank in crumbles. Looking at the manual, it looks like you should have to split the cases to replace it unless someone knows how to push a tight fitting rubber line into a hole. I have not mastered that trick yet. :cool2:

I did figure out how to thread the new line into the case with only removing the cyl though. It's pretty easy to remove the cyl as well.

I didnt get it finished though, I gave up in the heat. It was 90 deg in the shop when I got home from work yesterday but the thermometer on the side of the house said 114 deg in the sun. I ended up working in the 90 deg shop with the doors closed to keep it a balmy 90 inside.

So when it cools down I'll get back on it and try to remember the camera to take some pics if you guys want to see them but I'm not sure when that will be as the thermometer on the house said 118 deg today when I got home...

We can look at that little saw for DAYS when it cools off some!
You are the only Poulan GURU we have!!!
Damn that heat!
Stay cool and safe, we don't need another Copsey in the Poulan thread.
It has been the same here.


Mike

 

[jimdad07]

Hi guys, I see there are some of you from Ohio that pop on this thread quite a bit. There is a member on here who lives in Ohio and might be having a little trouble getting his wood cut this year. He has some major back problems, I think I remember him saying his doctor mentioned bone on bone. The point is I live too far to go down and cut for him and was wondering if some of you guys from his area might not want to run some those nice Poulans to help another member out. I am probably overstepping my bounds a little bit by asking this but he is a pretty good guy and has done a good turn for me before with a part I needed. I am not sure if he will go for this but it's worth a try. PM Tbone and maybe he will take someone up on an offer of a little saw time. Thanks guys.

 

[joe25DA]

CVA problem

Just finished a major overhaul on one of my S25CVAs. All new gaskets, crank seals, carb kit, base gasket removal (permatex moto-seal), cleaned up points and set to factory specs (.017). here is the problem. Great spark outside combustion chamber (grouded to case). Almost no spark using tester. I even swapped coils from a known runner, same outcome. Only three IGN parts I havent checked is the condensor, flywheel and switch. Any ideas guys? Could an bent crank cause this? Im running out of patience, but I have a lot of time into this one. It also has 145psi, pretty high for a 25.

 

[mweba]

Just finished a major overhaul on one of my S25CVAs. All new gaskets, crank seals, carb kit, base gasket removal (permatex moto-seal), cleaned up points and set to factory specs (.017). here is the problem. Great spark outside combustion chamber (grouded to case). Almost no spark using tester. I even swapped coils from a known runner, same outcome. Only three IGN parts I havent checked is the condensor, flywheel and switch. Any ideas guys? Could an bent crank cause this? Im running out of patience, but I have a lot of time into this one. It also has 145psi, pretty high for a 25.

Cleaned the points and changed the condensor? Disconnect the switch to eliminate it if you have not already.

 

[joe25DA]

Cleaned the points and changed the condensor? Disconnect the switch to eliminate it if you have not already.

Cleaned points, did not change condensor. I can disconnect switch or swap in a known switch in.

 

[mweba]

I would swap out the condensor if you have another available and disconnect the switch at the coil. Should take care of all possibilities with the exception of flywheel. Gotta love electrical probs

 

[mweba]

Received a couple "3400"s in parts form a while back. Questions are....Bore size as one is chrome bore with a thin ring slug and the other is bare bore thick ring. Also, are the crank bearings and seals a standard size? Sorry for the repetition in advance.


DSC_0313 by mweba1, on Flickr



DSC_0315 by mweba1, on Flickr

 

[stubnail67]

coil?

Cleaned points, did not change condensor. I can disconnect switch or swap in a known switch in.

i bet its the condenser also... i had one the other month did all that showed good spark till it was back together..... went through 3 coils and all of a sudden she fired and ran!did it so much one time i forgot to gap the coil and the fly wheel LOL!!!you will get it joe! by god your joe 25da!J/k good luck bud!i will dig around see if i have any points saws that had good points in my scrap pile!its getting bigger!

 

[joe25DA]

i bet its the condenser also... i had one the other month did all that showed good spark till it was back together..... went through 3 coils and all of a sudden she fired and ran!did it so much one time i forgot to gap the coil and the fly wheel LOL!!!you will get it joe! by god your joe 25da!J/k good luck bud!i will dig around see if i have any points saws that had good points in my scrap pile!its getting bigger!

Im gonna swap the condensor. Dont worry about parts, I have a bin full! Gonna do the condensor tonight.

 

[joe25DA]

Received a couple "3400"s in parts form a while back. Questions are....Bore size as one is chrome bore with a thin ring slug and the other is bare bore thick ring. Also, are the crank bearings and seals a standard size? Sorry for the repetition in advance.


DSC_0313 by mweba1, on Flickr



DSC_0315 by mweba1, on Flickr

Here is the thing...3400s only came with a chrome bore, as far as i know. I would think if you have a chrome bore, thin ring unit, its a 3700. Check the starter pawls, it they are the "heavy duty" ones you might have a 4000:yoyo:

 

[Applehead]

Applehead, I have tried every which way from Sunday, to get a video to embed here, and can't. Since the "New & Improved" AS came along. Anyway, here is hopefully, a workable link to a video of the same saw with a different 24" bar, and different tree. This one was Oak, around 30" or so.

Poulan 4000 24" bar video by Gregg500 - Photobucket


Gregg,

Nice!
thanks for posting that.

 

[redunshee]

Here is the thing...3400s only came with a chrome bore, as far as i know. I would think if you have a chrome bore, thin ring unit, its a 3700. Check the starter pawls, it they are the "heavy duty" ones you might have a 4000:yoyo:

Yea, have never seen a 3400 with thin rings, even clone 3400's. Thin rings are either a 3700 or 4000.

 

[redunshee]

Nice!
thanks for posting that.

Keep pumping that manual oiler Gregg. Are you using skiptooth chain?
Bob

 

[redunshee]

Received a couple "3400"s in parts form a while back. Questions are....Bore size as one is chrome bore with a thin ring slug and the other is bare bore thick ring. Also, are the crank bearings and seals a standard size? Sorry for the repetition in advance.


DSC_0313 by mweba1, on Flickr



DSC_0315 by mweba1, on Flickr

Add'l info. Crank bearings and seals are the same. Unusual for crank bearings to go but you can never tell. As long as there is no radial play they are good.

 

[redunshee]

Poulan S25CVA

Posted a while back but no response so I'll try again. Have a S25CVA that has no ring pins. Apparently this is fairly common I'm told. Am I safe in installing ring ends toward the intake side, which I guess would be the flywheel side, and spacing them apart?
Bob

 

[redunshee]

I do not have a compression tester....yet! I havent really needed it for this build. The pull start is effortless...I will try what you mentioned and see how it does. Thanks.

I think we mentioned before that these saws typically don't have high compression. I have several with 120 lbs of compression that run great. Typically 130 -135 would be very good, if not excellent.
Bob

 

[mweba]

Here is the thing...3400s only came with a chrome bore, as far as i know. I would think if you have a chrome bore, thin ring unit, its a 3700. Check the starter pawls, it they are the "heavy duty" ones you might have a 4000:yoyo:

This was my understanding as well but I am by no means an expert. Safe just to ask.

Add'l info. Crank bearings and seals are the same. Unusual for crank bearings to go but you can never tell. As long as there is no radial play they are good.

Both saws have play. Can't figure why as they are clean inside and appear to be lower hour.



Thanks Guys

 

[OhioGregg]

Keep pumping that manual oiler Gregg. Are you using skiptooth chain?
Bob

LOL, Yes it was a habit of mine with that style saw. Pumping the oiler in bigger cuts. I didn't know what to do with my thumb, when I got a saw without it! All the chains I ever run have been full compliment. Never had a skip chain.


Gregg,

 

[redunshee]

This was my understanding as well but I am by no means an expert. Safe just to ask.



Both saws have play. Can't figure why as they are clean inside and appear to be lower hour.



Thanks Guys

In out play is ok. Side to side playor radial play is a Problem

 

[mweba]

In out play is ok. Side to side playor radial play is a Problem

Yes, I have a problem:bang: