Nik's Poulan Thread

[redunshee]

Yes, I have a problem:bang:

Go to a bearing and seal shop and get a TIMKEN BEARINg bh108. Set it at the same depth as the old bea rings.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yes, I have a problem:bang:

Not a big problem. The end play on the crank is actually set by how deep the crank brgs are set into the case. In fact Poulan has a special service tool just for setting the brgs at the proper depth in the case. The bronze crank bushings actually ride against the caged needle brgs and not against the case.

I dont have the Poulan brg tool but just drive the brgs in or out to get a proper crank end play. Lots of these series of saws are running every day with lots of crank end play without any ill effects.

That thin ring piston should for sure be a 3700 or4000 piston though. Even if it is a rebored and chromed 3400 cyl it would more then likely be a thick ring piston

 

[redunshee]

Go to a bearing and seal shop and get a TIMKEN BEARINg bh108. Set it at the same depth as the old bea rings.

Forgot to mention that you should split the case in order to install the bearings as they have to be installed from inside the case halves. You punch them out from the outside but install from the inside. Naturally that will require new crank seals as well. Both saws have the same issue?
Bob

 

[mweba]

Forgot to mention that you should split the case in order to install the bearings as they have to be installed from inside the case halves. You punch them out from the outside but install from the inside. Naturally that will require new crank seals as well. Both saws have the same issue?
Bob

Yes, Both saws. Seems weird to me but both are sloppy. Thanks for the tip and #

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yes, Both saws. Seems weird to me but both are sloppy. Thanks for the tip and #

Mitch, sometime back I measured up the cases and the crank to see about some aftermarket seals for them.

What I came up with was a .625 shaft (5/8"), a .878 case bore (7/8') and a .125 seal width (1/8").

The aftermarket seal that I came up with was a SKF 710212. I have NOT bought any or have tried any yet though.

Like Bob said, I have not seen many bad brgs in these but I have seen alot of these what would seem to have excessive crank end play. I think the cause is that over time the brgs actually get pushed to the outside of the case resulting in the extra crank play. I have not seen any crank thrust washers with a noticable amount of wear compared to new.

Like I said before, a little extra crank end play does not seem to bother these style saws at all. I never seen any ill effects of it at all.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Here is a couple pages from the 3400 service manual dealing with the crank, brgs and seals. Notice they give no crank end play deminsions, just that the brg driver tool will seat them to the right level.

 

[Eccentric]

I have said before that I'm not really that much in the know on the Poulan XX saws and it has probably been 25 years or more since I worked on one.

I have a couple here in different colors and just never really got interested in them enough to get after them. Well I got reintroduced to them some.

Been too hot to really work in the shop but I did tear into the Ridgid branded XX a couple of nights ago. Got it running finally after I found someone had put the wrong inlet needle spring in the carb.:msp_mad: That took a little bit of doing to figure that out.

It run like it had a air leak and the oiler wasnt working and found the impulse line to the oil tank in crumbles. Looking at the manual, it looks like you should have to split the cases to replace it unless someone knows how to push a tight fitting rubber line into a hole. I have not mastered that trick yet. :cool2:

I did figure out how to thread the new line into the case with only removing the cyl though. It's pretty easy to remove the cyl as well.

I didnt get it finished though, I gave up in the heat. It was 90 deg in the shop when I got home from work yesterday but the thermometer on the side of the house said 114 deg in the sun. I ended up working in the 90 deg shop with the doors closed to keep it a balmy 90 inside.

So when it cools down I'll get back on it and try to remember the camera to take some pics if you guys want to see them but I'm not sure when that will be as the thermometer on the house said 118 deg today when I got home...

Glad to see you tinkering with one of these little buggers. I'm still fighting the oiler system on my XX. It's running perfect except for the oiler issues. No air leak symptoms. I saw the impulse hose situation in the SM and IPL....and wasn't looking forward to dealing with it. That's great that you were able to replace that tube without splitting the crankcase/tank assembly. Now go have a COLD Hi-Life....

 

[Modifiedmark]

Glad to see you tinkering with one of these little buggers. I'm still fighting the oiler system on my XX. It's running perfect except for the oiler issues. No air leak symptoms. I saw the impulse hose situation in the SM and IPL....and wasn't looking forward to dealing with it. That's great that you were able to replace that tube without splitting the crankcase/tank assembly. Now go have a COLD Hi-Life....

Aaron, I just come in from putting this one back together. Still don't run worth a darn and the oiler aint working either. :hmm3grin2orange:

The SM and IPL seem to be a little older then this Ridgid and it shows a oiler thats a little different then the one in the IPL and SM. It also showed a different oiler check valve the what the SM shows as well.

I cannot rule out the carb for the running but it sure seems like a air leak at first impression. Like I said, its been 80 or 81 since I worked on one of these! I'll get it sooner or later but will get back to it when I get time.

That might not be for a while though as I just got 6 or 7 saws dropped off (all Sthils ) to service along with about 15 chains to sharpen but I got 2 weeks to get them done.

Any little saw can be a PITA to service but this XX is still not the nightmare that some others are. At least I dont think so yet.

 

[Warped5]

Now go have a COLD Hi-Life....

Aaron: The man has an air-conditioned office in his shop! Yes, the office has a 'fridge in it!

... and a desk, a 'puter, a TV, a couch .....

 

[stubnail67]

woohoo

just bought me a real clean PP295 off the bay! i paid more then i should have but it was clean and i wanted it!!! thats all that matters! I am slowly culling out saws ive bought that have lil problems and replacing with nicer saws cleaner i mean its kinda an addiction!

 

[stubnail67]

Aaron: The man has an air-conditioned office in his shop! Yes, the office has a 'fridge in it!

... and a desk, a 'puter, a TV, a couch .....

LMAO! who has that mark? if so only thing missing is a bathroom!!!!

 

[Warped5]

LMAO! who has that mark? if so only thing missing is a bathroom!!!!

Thick bushes at the back end of his property ..... same thing! :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[mweba]

Mitch, sometime back I measured up the cases and the crank to see about some aftermarket seals for them.

What I came up with was a .625 shaft (5/8"), a .878 case bore (7/8') and a .125 seal width (1/8").

The aftermarket seal that I came up with was a SKF 710212. I have NOT bought any or have tried any yet though.

Like Bob said, I have not seen many bad brgs in these but I have seen alot of these what would seem to have excessive crank end play. I think the cause is that over time the brgs actually get pushed to the outside of the case resulting in the extra crank play. I have not seen any crank thrust washers with a noticable amount of wear compared to new.

Like I said before, a little extra crank end play does not seem to bother these style saws at all. I never seen any ill effects of it at all.

Thanks for that, Mark. I will tear into these further to get a better idea on condition.

 

[rms61moparman]

LMAO! who has that mark? if so only thing missing is a bathroom!!!!

OH!

Never fear he has that too!!!
Have to dispose of the used High Life's somewhere.


Mike

 

[Nardoo]

Mark,
The little Partner 335 (XX) that I was working on lately exhibited the same behaviour, like an air leak. It was a leaking crank case so I split the two halves (really easy - no puller needed) and applied new sealant before reassembling. Hey presto - no air leak.
The leaking crankcase also explained why my oiler was not working as it could not hold enough pressure to move the oil.

Al.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Aaron: The man has an air-conditioned office in his shop! Yes, the office has a 'fridge in it!

... and a desk, a 'puter, a TV, a couch .....

And I hear he has a Lake!

 

[Warped5]

And I hear he has a Lake!

Nope, not Mark.
Sachsmo has the lake.

 

[redunshee]

Posted a while back but no response so I'll try again. Have a S25CVA that has no ring pins. Apparently this is fairly common I'm told. Am I safe in installing ring ends toward the intake side, which I guess would be the flywheel side, and spacing them apart?
Bob

Somebody must know. Someone must have seen one of these pistons w/o ring pins.
Bob

 

[stubnail67]

carb help!

hi ya all! ok so i finally got a poulan 2375 wild thing this thing is like new.... guy said it sat for at least a year... anyways the carb seemed really clean in side everything looks like new so i cleaned it slapped it all back together it seems like its flooding fires but then dies its a zama carb. says 2004 on the tag so on that zama its like 2 full turns out on both for a starting point is that correct???what do you guys set yours at?most i set at 1 turn but zama says 2 full turns??? any of ya all can help i would appreciate a starting point. thanks paul.

 

[briantutt]

hi ya all! ok so i finally got a poulan 2375 wild thing this thing is like new.... guy said it sat for at least a year... anyways the carb seemed really clean in side everything looks like new so i cleaned it slapped it all back together it seems like its flooding fires but then dies its a zama carb. says 2004 on the tag so on that zama its like 2 full turns out on both for a starting point is that correct???what do you guys set yours at?most i set at 1 turn but zama says 2 full turns??? any of ya all can help i would appreciate a starting point. thanks paul.

One of Zama carbs I did said 2 turns. Didn't work, went to 1-1/4 and started right up.